Jim Timber
Veteran Member
Side link is up next. 
source for hydraulic top link?
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npalen
Elite Member
Something to keep in mind on these top cylinders is that the lifting power is influenced by the rod diameter. The 1 3/8" rod diameter loses about 15% of the lifting power compared to a 1 1/4" diameter rod.
A 1" diameter rod would add a lot of lifting power and reduce the valve leakdown rate if that is an issue.
I just heard from Brian at Fit-Rite and he's found a great solution for me that will meet my needs at a cost I can afford, so problem solved! I had communicated with him previously and given up on being able to get what seems to be the "gold standard" that is his product, but now will have that pleasure. Thanks to all, and to Brian for the much appreciated help!!
Helitech
Silver Member
Outstanding!
Helitech
Silver Member
Yep, I'm aware of that. Just putting forward a lower cost option for the OP. I'm a Fit - Rite owner now!
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Alls well that ends well. Just another example why Brian and Fit Rite is recommended here. Great customer service.
s219
Super Member
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I am in the process of making my second hydraulic side link -- if you have a stock non-adjustable link to work with as a template (and/or as a clamping guide) it's very easy to do. Not really that much harder than the top link, all things considered.
I think the main benefit of Fit Rite is for folks that are not into welding or hydraulics and need help with stuff like hoses, fittings, etc. You get a turnkey kit and the prices are very fair knowing the labor that goes into it. But if you are able/willing to do the work yourself, why not? Just takes some cutting, grinding, welding, and paint. I found a very high quality cylinder on eBay for $100, and spent another $30 on custom order hoses. Already have the paint and the scrap to make the clevis end. For $130 it's a no brainer, and it's a fun project.
Jim Timber
Veteran Member
Second one? Like two on the same tractor, or another for a second tractor?
I plan on duplicating the slip clevis on the OEM links, and will probably just use a replacement link end to add the ball to the top.
For me, I like making the stuff, so buying it is getting ripped off out of the fun of making it.
s219
Super Member
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Another for a different tractor this time.
LD1
Epic Contributor
SO what was the solution that you all came up with?
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
I like building things too but a lot of people don't have the tools or know how. Since I have plenty of tools and welding equipment I like to build implements when I have time.
BoylermanCT
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Apologize for asking what may be obvious... what are the benefits of a hydraulic top link? I used a tiller and mower, and never have to adjust it. I'm thinking I might need one, but don't know why! I have a spare, unused set of rear hydraulics...
LD1
Epic Contributor
Not so much use for the implements you have.
For things like a rear blade, or box blade, they are nice. Shortening or lengthening the toplink changes the angle of attack for a blade or rippers to make them cut better.
For a bushhog, adjustment of the toplink is how to set the blades 1" lower in the front vs the rear, and also allows you to raist the tailwheel real high and lower onto a briar bush, or clear loading a trailer.
For a trailer mover, adjustment to keep the ball hitch level. Same thing with pallet forks. Maybe you want forks level to get under a log or something, then want to shorten the toplink so you can move the log around without it rolling off the back.
Boom pole.....more range of motion
I am sure there are more
Jim Timber
Veteran Member
Box blade angle can be changed from the drivers seat. It's also easier to hook up implements when you can extend the top link and help pull them into position.
On my stump grinder, the top link length affects the range of motion on the depth of cut. If I have the top shorter, I can grind tall stumps but then can't get as far below grade. When I get the stump flush with the ground, I can then roll the top of the grinder back and increase the depth the wheel can reach. Very handy.
My skidding winch and stump grinder aren't quick hitch compatible (nor can they be made to be), so I end up wrestling with the bottom pins after I get the top link in and one side on. That's why I'm going for the tilt link. I'll be able to hook up to my stuff on uneven ground much quicker and with less fuss and bother.
s219
Super Member
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For box blade work, the top link has been a huge benefit to me.
I wasn't sold on having a side link on my current tractor until I started clearing snow on a heavily crowned driveway and have to frequently change the horizontal angle of my rear blade to match the crown. That gets old fast with the turnbuckle.
I wasn't sold on having a side link on my current tractor until I started clearing snow on a heavily crowned driveway and have to frequently change the horizontal angle of my rear blade to match the crown. That gets old fast with the turnbuckle.
LD1
Epic Contributor
If the plow is angled, changing the toplink will also change the horizontal level.
IE: I assume you are angling the snow to the side of the road and away from the crown. Lengthening the TL will make the near side cut higher than the trailing edge.
He happened to have a used one - an earlier model with the right specs he felt would be fine for my intended use. And he was generous enough to let me have it at a price I could afford. Very nice guy who seems to enjoy his work.......
npalen
Elite Member
If the plow is angled, changing the toplink will also change the horizontal level.
IE: I assume you are angling the snow to the side of the road and away from the crown. Lengthening the TL will make the near side cut higher than the trailing edge.
I run into this issue myself and I think that it's important to have some kind of reference to easily bring the TNT back to "home" position.
IE: I assume you are angling the snow to the side of the road and away from the crown. Lengthening the TL will make the near side cut higher than the trailing edge.
I run into this issue myself and I think that it's important to have some kind of reference to easily bring the TNT back to "home" position.
s219
Super Member
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If the crown was flat on each side of the center, that would be true. But for a curved crown, no.
The blade sticks out to each side of tractor, and the way the crown is curved, I really need to angle the edge side down more. Otherwise the blade will dig into the gravel at the center of the driveway and not scrape the snow on the edge.
As LD1 alluded to, top link angle could accommodate some of that on a swept blade, but to get it where I need the blade would be tipped back too much and more prone to digging in to the gravel. I like to keep the blade mostly vertical or close. It's all a bit of a delicate optimum when clearing snow on gravel. If it's not right, I have a heck of a gravel cleanup job in the spring.
