Splitter frustration- Blowing filters

[Nicksdad]

Hi Folks,
I hope someone can help me out as I'm at my wits end. I have an old (1981) Dider splitter that has been a workhorse for me for the last 20 plus years. The original cylinder developed a crack on the end cap and I finally got fed up with the spray and looked to replace it. The original was 4 inch bore, 1.5 inch shaft and 24 inch stroke. Due to the mounting configuration, the closest I could come up with was a cylinder from Rugged Made. The difference being the shaft was 2 inch and the bore was 4.25. After a bit of modification I bolted it up to the existing frame. I also replaced the hard metal line from the control valve (CROSS) with .5 inch hydraulic line from TSC. After bleeding the system I tried splitting a small piece of oak and noticed significant pressure at the tank. The original resevoir was about a gallon maybe a bit more but it is very small by today's standards. I assumed that because of the larger bore and shaft of the replacement cylinder that I needed more fluid due to the greater displacement. I then swapped out the smaller existing tank with a larger Speeco tank (5 gallon). Installed a 1.5 inch fitting with a screen on the input side of the tank and ran a .5 inch line (same as the original set up) to the pump. (the pump is a John S. Barnes pump and I have no idea of the rating) From the pump to the valve i kept the original hose and fittings (look to be .5 inch). From the valve to the rear of the cylinder I kept the original hard line (looks to be 3/8 inch). My original set up had a return line going back to the tank WITHOUT a filter. I opted to replace this line as well with a .5 inch line (again from TSC) and installed a Lenz 25 micron filter between the valve and the .75 inch return port at the tank. Upon start up (B&S engine I replaced about 5 years ago) I blew out the o ring on the filter. Thinking that I hadn't seated it correctly I then reset the oring, tighten down the filter but when I crank over the engine I noticed the filter begin to bulge away from the filter head. I can't figure out what I have done wrong with this retrofit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.-Steve

 

[SimS]

A quick Google search for Lenz 25 micron filter showed that their psi rating varies between 150 and 200 psi. In your configuration, you obviously have more psi present than that on your return line. I would hook up a pressure gauge and see what the current return psi is and spec a filter with specs to operate at that pressure. Are your old and new tank vented or non-vented the same? That may be causing an issue too. Good luck.

SimS

 

[Nicksdad]

A quick Google search for Lenz 25 micron filter showed that their psi rating varies between 150 and 200 psi. In your configuration, you obviously have more psi present than that on your return line. I would hook up a pressure gauge and see what the current return psi is and spec a filter with specs to operate at that pressure. Are your old and new tank vented or non-vented the same? That may be causing an issue too. Good luck.

SimS

Thanks SimS The new tank is vented from the top with what looks to be a 1.5 inch pipe with a breather top. The old tank just had a breather hole in the middle of the filler cap. Would it make sense that I would be building that kind of pressure on the return line?

 

[Tx Jim]

On a double acting cylinder tank size should not have much affect as non pressurized side of cylinder also acts as part of reservoir. Larger reservoir size would assist in keeping hyd oil at a cooler operating temp. Does hyd filter your utilizing have a check valve built into it?

 

[Nicksdad]

I'm going to look right now. Thank you for the reply! Both filter and housing are brand new.

 

[triptester]

The return line normally contains less than 15 psi. If excess pressure develops it is due to blockage in the filter or tank.

 

[handirifle]

Not to sound insulting, but is the arrow on the filter housing pointing to the tank side of the line? I ask because I was in a tractor store the other day, and saw a brand new splitter on their floor, and it was pointing towards the valve. I didn't think that was right and the folks here confirmed it.

 

[pmsmechanic]

i say something is hooked up wrong. There should be next to no pressure on a filter with the return oil dumping back into the tank.

 

[rswyan]

Not to sound insulting, but is the arrow on the filter housing pointing to the tank side of the line? I ask because I was in a tractor store the other day, and saw a brand new splitter on their floor, and it was pointing towards the valve. I didn't think that was right and the folks here confirmed it.

Bingo ... if it was installed backwards that would, I think, have the effect of forcing any bypass valve that may be in the filter to be forced CLOSED rather than OPEN, with the presence of flow/pressure in the return line.

 

[rswyan]

Not to sound insulting, but is the arrow on the filter housing pointing to the tank side of the line? I ask because I was in a tractor store the other day, and saw a brand new splitter on their floor, and it was pointing towards the valve. I didn't think that was right and the folks here confirmed it.

Bingo ... if it was installed backwards that would, I think, have the effect of forcing any bypass valve that may be in the filter to be forced CLOSED rather than OPEN, with the presence of flow/pressure in the return line.

Personally, the filter housing I used on the return line on the splitter I built was drilled and tapped for a pressure gauge, and I installed one in it.