Splitting a TC24DA
- Thread starter TCBoomer
- Start date
- Views: 9032
RickB
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2000
- Messages
- 15,190
- Location
- Up the road from Dollar General WNC
- Tractor
- Just a Scag
Calm down. I referenced your identification of hydraulic oil and did not question that. I also did not exclude any possibilities for the cause of the leak. I did predict what the most probable cause is. I am not going to tell you it can't be or isn't a porous casting, but I'll bet against that. Go ahead and dye it. Maybe it will show something more than if you don't; maybe not. You asked for guidance here, without exception you were advised to let dealership personnel handle what is clearly a warranty issue. Many dealers give the option of machine dropoff and pickup after hours. That may cut down the time you have to take off work. NH sells the input shaft seal as part of a $110 kit. If you don't want to buy that, be prepared to source a metric oil seal. And buy the manual.
jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 21,059
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
TCBoomer, I keep reading this thread and I think you are making a huge mistake.
What's the best that can happen? You open up your tractor, find the leak, repair the part, and reassemble. Sounds like a nice story doesn't it.
What's the worst that can happen? You open up your tractor, find a busted casing (expensive), and NH blames the whole kit and kaboodle on you. Says you did it while you were doing your "shade tree" repair.
What if you find a leaky seal, replace it, and the darn thing still leaks after you put it back together? How will you test it to ensure this ain't gonna happen? What if you get the seal fixed and introduce another leak from some obscure plumbing fitting?
Man... I could go on and on. This is far from a clear-cut issue. I know your frustration. I tore my operator's platform off and fixed my HST pedal (with my dealers help) when my tractor was less than a year old. But, I could look up and see the problem. I wasn't splitting my tractor.
You can go on and on about the inconvenience and cost of taking your tractor to your old dealer, but I think you should do it. That dealer has thousands of dollars of resources that he may use, but will only cost you a fraction of their cost. That's a bargain and the reason that some jobs need to go back to the dealer. After all, your dealer did not build your tractor, New Holland did. It leaks. Do you think you can do a better job than the factory? Maybe your answer is yes, but I think you should let them fix it.
If this sounds like a lecture that's because it is. I just want you to do what is best for you and I don't see how your taking on this job will result in anything but a lot of grief. Good luck. Maybe you'll do this and get away with it. I sure hope so. I bought a new tractor because I wanted something reliable. I know you did the same and this is not what we expect when we buy something new. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
What's the best that can happen? You open up your tractor, find the leak, repair the part, and reassemble. Sounds like a nice story doesn't it.
What's the worst that can happen? You open up your tractor, find a busted casing (expensive), and NH blames the whole kit and kaboodle on you. Says you did it while you were doing your "shade tree" repair.
What if you find a leaky seal, replace it, and the darn thing still leaks after you put it back together? How will you test it to ensure this ain't gonna happen? What if you get the seal fixed and introduce another leak from some obscure plumbing fitting?
Man... I could go on and on. This is far from a clear-cut issue. I know your frustration. I tore my operator's platform off and fixed my HST pedal (with my dealers help) when my tractor was less than a year old. But, I could look up and see the problem. I wasn't splitting my tractor.
You can go on and on about the inconvenience and cost of taking your tractor to your old dealer, but I think you should do it. That dealer has thousands of dollars of resources that he may use, but will only cost you a fraction of their cost. That's a bargain and the reason that some jobs need to go back to the dealer. After all, your dealer did not build your tractor, New Holland did. It leaks. Do you think you can do a better job than the factory? Maybe your answer is yes, but I think you should let them fix it.
If this sounds like a lecture that's because it is. I just want you to do what is best for you and I don't see how your taking on this job will result in anything but a lot of grief. Good luck. Maybe you'll do this and get away with it. I sure hope so. I bought a new tractor because I wanted something reliable. I know you did the same and this is not what we expect when we buy something new. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
bgott
Veteran Member
If you don't trust your dealer, do it yourself. My dealer split my TN 65 4 times to find a bent PTO shaft. It leaked the day I picked it up, new. I spent a couple of hours replacing missing bolts and tightening lose hardware each time after I got it back. They had drained the coolant and then ran the tractor on the dyno, I found the radiator empty when I picked it up. I checked the coolant because every time I had had them work on anything on the tractor that held fluid it came back low. I was an IH- Sperry New Holland tech in the '70s and disconnecting hydraulic lines and leaving them uncapped was a firing offence. Whenever I checked on the split tractor while it was in the shop,which was often because it took them forever to do anything, the lines were uncapped and had floor dry floating in the fluid. I have no confidence in the repairs I can't see and put a wrench on being any better, and, guess what?, it still leaks!!! I wiped my hand along the bottom of the case the last time I ran it and came up with oil. The reason I had to wipe the case to find it is because the tech pulled the cottar key, I figure it was so I couldn't see the drip if it had one. I did get them to install a cerro-metallic clutch out of a TN 75 last time, the bronze clutches actually like being oil soaked. New Holland's attitude was not satisfactory, they just told me to talk to the shop foreman if I had a problem. Being that I was one step away from kicking his tail end that wasn't what I wanted to hear. You said you are an experienced tech, there is nothing there that you can't handle. Be sure to spin your PTO shaft in a set of V- blocks. I know that sounds simple but the reason they gave for not finding something that the techs should have been able to feel by hand while re- installing the shaft was " New Holland doesn't pay us diagnostic time". /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif There were other issues but I am sitting here getting violently PO'ed just thinking about this so I'll save it for another time. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
kensfarm
Veteran Member
Wow.. bgott.. I would have skipped the "shop foreman".. and told the salesman or owner that you are returning the tractor for a full refund.
bgott
Veteran Member
I thought about that but with 130 some odd hours I would have lost 3 grand or so. I was willing to give them the benefit of the doubt the last time but I'm going to review my options. I complained about the leak when new and was told to live with it for a while. I started running it in and out of their shops ( I've had it in shops at two of their dealerships) six months before the warranty expired. Heck, I figured six months would be enough time to split it twice in case they screwed it up the first time. How was I to know they are totally incompetent? At this point in time I'd just as soon do it myself, I know I can fix it. And know I will check the fluids when I'm done. And I can disassemble and reassemble the thing without knocking gobs of paint off of the hood. Or at least, If I do , grab a rattle can and fix the screw ups. And take less than a month and a half or more to do it. And, I'm done for a while, PO'ed again. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
Jim
Thanks for the lecture...it was well received. I agree with everything you said, which is why I stopped short of actually splitting the tractor, and post this issue here first. If the cause of the leak required a major component to be replaced, and I didn't have NH's authorization to do the job in the first place, I'd choke...because it'd be a big pill to swallow! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Before I actually started any disassembly, and after I had informed my dealer about the leak, I had offered two different proposals to them.
-1-Take the tractor back for a full refund, and I would buy the TC33DA instead....wishfull thinking I guess! I'd have to take a $3K hit, and that's just on the 24. Considering how bad they already burned me, NO WAY!! I'm not that naive.
-2-Refund the $614(what they wacked me for "supposedly" fixing my 21) and I'd fix the leak myself. In addition, they would supply me with the parts and process the warranty claim like they did it themselves. By agreeing to this proposal, I would forget all that has happened(even the damage to my truck)and continue to be a faithfull customer, like I was to the parts dept for the last 5 yrs. I honestly don't feel that this was unreasonable, all things considered, but they thought otherwise. I could do the repair part OK, but no refund!! They refused to tie the 2 issues together. To make matters worse...they had sold my 21 already, and as sad as it sounds...they had the odasity to resell it with the starting problem still present...they convinced that customer that extended crank time was normal for this tractor. They knew I knew about it(another story) and simply stated that it would be their problem if the customer complained. Talk about shady dealers!! I sure hope they stock a starter for it...with all that cranking it's seen, it's probably gonna need one REAL SOON! Plus an inj pump too!!
My only hopes at this time are to get NH's authorization to repair it myself...which I don't feel is that unreasonable, providing I speak to the proper authority and present my case or
.....stick a FOR SALE sign on it and unload it.
I haven't given up hope yet, but what a major let down this turned out to be. Nothing against TBN or it's members, but one reason I went local and paid a premium for the new 24, was all the fuss many of you make about supporting the local dealer and he would support you in return. You guys with reputable dealers are blessed and I am ENVIOUS of you!!!!!!!!!
Maybe I'll find one before I do something I may regret...
Thanks for the lecture...it was well received. I agree with everything you said, which is why I stopped short of actually splitting the tractor, and post this issue here first. If the cause of the leak required a major component to be replaced, and I didn't have NH's authorization to do the job in the first place, I'd choke...because it'd be a big pill to swallow! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Before I actually started any disassembly, and after I had informed my dealer about the leak, I had offered two different proposals to them.
-1-Take the tractor back for a full refund, and I would buy the TC33DA instead....wishfull thinking I guess! I'd have to take a $3K hit, and that's just on the 24. Considering how bad they already burned me, NO WAY!! I'm not that naive.
-2-Refund the $614(what they wacked me for "supposedly" fixing my 21) and I'd fix the leak myself. In addition, they would supply me with the parts and process the warranty claim like they did it themselves. By agreeing to this proposal, I would forget all that has happened(even the damage to my truck)and continue to be a faithfull customer, like I was to the parts dept for the last 5 yrs. I honestly don't feel that this was unreasonable, all things considered, but they thought otherwise. I could do the repair part OK, but no refund!! They refused to tie the 2 issues together. To make matters worse...they had sold my 21 already, and as sad as it sounds...they had the odasity to resell it with the starting problem still present...they convinced that customer that extended crank time was normal for this tractor. They knew I knew about it(another story) and simply stated that it would be their problem if the customer complained. Talk about shady dealers!! I sure hope they stock a starter for it...with all that cranking it's seen, it's probably gonna need one REAL SOON! Plus an inj pump too!!
My only hopes at this time are to get NH's authorization to repair it myself...which I don't feel is that unreasonable, providing I speak to the proper authority and present my case or
.....stick a FOR SALE sign on it and unload it.
I haven't given up hope yet, but what a major let down this turned out to be. Nothing against TBN or it's members, but one reason I went local and paid a premium for the new 24, was all the fuss many of you make about supporting the local dealer and he would support you in return. You guys with reputable dealers are blessed and I am ENVIOUS of you!!!!!!!!!
Maybe I'll find one before I do something I may regret...
