spray foam

   / spray foam #11  
If spraying onto (or under roof) of metal most recommend the closed cell polyurethane product. The open cell foam that is normally sprayed in wood stud cavities can hold condensation under the metal when the metal tries to sweat. The open cell foam is also softer, does not bond as well and has slightly less R value per inch. I am NOT saying that open cell is bad (I have in part of my home and love it) just that it is not likely the right product for a metal shed. For commercial buildings the closed cell poly is sometimes even calculated as part of the structure's rigidity/strength.

The DIY kits I have personnally been disappointed with. To be honest I have only tried the Tigerfoam but I hear all are about the same. When I sprayed it I could only get a thin coating (3/8" or much less). I followed all the warming instructions etc. I even called the company and what I described was normal...I was told I have to layer it to get it thicker. The stuff the pros use is more like what comes in the can. It expands quite a bit when applied...but expands before your eyes not slowly like the cans.

Your quoted cost seems about right...but it does depend. They usually have a "base" price per square foot to come out and start spraying. They usually add more depending on thickness because the actual product is a significant cost to them. The closed cell poly is also a bit more than the open cell variety. Gets several quotes from people who have been in the business a long time. Many are available on the web since a lot of their business is commercial/agricultural and not residential. They often travel a fair distance to do their work.

Hope this helps. If you do spray you will be happy with the result. You will have a warm, tight, quiet, stong building that bugs can't sneak into as well. And no, I do not own or have any vested interest in the product. I just have used it and like it.

Peter
 
   / spray foam #12  
Chuck, I've been in some metal shop/garage buildings which had the spray on foam insulation and chunks of it were falling off. They supposedly had a problem with condensation getting between the foam and the metal. One tiny spot gradually spread allowing the foam to break loose and rust to begin. So a dozen years ago or so I was warned to not do that to the metal building I had. But of course, materials may (or may not) have improved enough that it would work satisfactorily.
 
   / spray foam #15  
Conservation -- Twelve cans that fit in your hand :eek::eek: (a case). I used this stuff to insulate between the logs in my log cabin. It worked well and allowed me to work a section at a time. If I was doing the basement (which I am thinking about) I would buy the bulk packs of 600 board feet. One thing to remember with this stuff is it will only come off with solvent when still wet -- otherwise it sticks to just about anything (skin included) and has to chipped off.
 
   / spray foam #16  
Doh! I needed to read more carefully. That makes sense. The nice thing about the cans is that you just use them up without cleanup. If you stop with the bulk, you probably need to clean the nozzle somehow.
 
   / spray foam #17  
we had the out side of our shop sprayed and then painted it cut my heating expense a ton and i think it was worth every dime and i would do it again it is by far the best in my opinion:D
 

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