Sprayer decision...please give me your opinion

[HCJtractor]

I want to build a sprayer to apply herbicide to plots and trails. Total acreage would be about 15 with the average plot size of 2 acres. I have a Fimco ATV version with a boom that works ok but the 25 gallons runs out fast, so I need a bigger one. I am thinking 100 to 200 gallon size.

I will use it on two properties, neither has a good water source. One has a cistern (that will require filtration) and the other will have to be begged from a neighbor, neither of which really suits me. Another factor is I would have to transport the tractor if I use a 3 point hitch model.

Therefore I am leaning towards a trailer style so I can take water to the property from home, and either pull the sprayer in the field with a tractor if it is there, or with my truck rather that having to transport the tractor. Complicated!

So a nice trailer with a 200 gallon tank would be ideal, but what pump?

My question is are there any 12 V pumps that would handle this demand and have acceptable flow? Obviously a PTO pump is better, but I could not pull it with a truck. Or what about a gas driven pump that would allow either the tractor or truck to be used? I really don't want to spend 2 or 3 grand on one, as I would rather be cheap and build it myself, but I have to come up with a design.

Ideally I would like a system that would allow me to drive to my property, drive around to all the plots and dispense the herbicide, and be done quickly. I think a trailer style would be better in this regard, and would allow me to drive it home to clean it with a good water source.

Anyone use a skid type sprayer on a truck with success?? If so, with what pump? Thanks for any advice and thoughts.

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

Remember the weight. A 3 pt with 100 gal is 900 lbs. If you have a smaller tractor that is an issue also soft ground can be a problem. For a tank look at a plastic shipping tote for liquid. Approx 200 gallon clean plastic tank for around $75 on craigs list all the time here. They have a light metal frame around them and you can move the around by hand when they are empty. For the pump sounds like you will have good luck with a gas engine pump. I don't think an electric pump will have enough volume to make you happy for the area you want to cover. With the light tank and gas pump you could move it from a trailer to the truck easily.

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

Delavan makes a few 12V pumps that will pump 5 GPM at 45 psi. I use a Delavan Fat Boy that pumps 7 GPM. Just remember the motors on these pumps are not thermally protected. They will burn up if the motor gets above 140 degrees F.
I use a 300 gallon poly tank and this pump will empty it in 1 hour. You can cover a lot of ground in 1 hour. Just remember to check the motor temperature (if you can keep your hand on it then the temperature is below 140) and shut down and let it cool down if it gets too hot.

 

[HCJtractor]

Delavan makes a few 12V pumps that will pump 5 GPM at 45 psi. I use a Delavan Fat Boy that pumps 7 GPM. Just remember the motors on these pumps are not thermally protected. They will burn up if the motor gets above 140 degrees F.
I use a 300 gallon poly tank and this pump will empty it in 1 hour. You can cover a lot of ground in 1 hour. Just remember to check the motor temperature (if you can keep your hand on it then the temperature is below 140) and shut down and let it cool down if it gets too hot.

Thanks. I will check those out. How do you have your tank rigged? Is it a trailer? Where do you get a power source? Alligator clips to your battery, or a dedicated battery, or a plug? A good 12 volt pump would sure make my design easier and allow me to use either my truck or my tractor to dispense.

 

[newbury]

For a tank look at a plastic shipping tote for liquid. Approx 200 gallon clean plastic tank for around $75 on craigs list all the time here. They have a light metal frame around them and you can move the around by hand when they are empty.

I've seen 275 and 330 gallon IBC totes (and have 4).

But have not seen 200 gallon size. Mine are about 70lb empty. Add 8lb/gallon for fluid.

 

[MMagis]

You might be best served to custom build one to fit in the bed of your truck. Things tend to get bounced around a lot on trailers, and having it in the back of your truck would really simplify things as far as traveling. Though, I think it would be nearly impossible to maintain the proper speed for spraying in a truck.
Another option would be to just get a large water tank for the bed of your truck and just take the water with you, but you’d better have a truck that can handle it.

 

[HCJtractor]

I've seen 275 and 330 gallon IBC totes (and have 4).

But have not seen 200 gallon size. Mine are about 70lb empty. Add 8lb/gallon for fluid.

How do these totes I see commonly compare to a plastic tank that you can buy (say like the ones at Tractor Supply). Are they as durable and what bulkhead fittings do they have? What should I look for if I buy a tote or are they all about the same?

If I build a sprayer, it seems the tank needs two outlets; one for the pump to pull through and one for the re-circulating pathway. A lot of the tanks I see only have one outlet. I wonder how guys recirculate. Do they drill a new hole in the tank and use a screw on fitting?

I never though about ground speed in a truck being a limiting factor. I guess it also depends on what pump you have and what its flow is. Obviously, a
12 V pump would be less than a PTO or gas driven one. And I never considered the bouncing to be a problem with a trailered sprayer.

My main goal is to get a system I can "get her done" quickly. I wish I could build a rig that holds enough for 8 or 10 acres, is portable enough to drive to the site, and will allow me just to drive around and sprays the plots, and then go home. And not spend all day or require transporting a tractor if it is not on site where I need it. If my truck had a PTO it would be easy! That's why I want to get all the ideas and advice I can in brainstorming a design.

I have no problem building a custom rig, and as a matter of fact, I would prefer to as I think I can save lots of money doing it myself. And my truck is a F 350 so weight is not a problem. And my tractor is plenty big to handle 200 gallons on the back if I decide to go to a 3 point hitch model. The commercial ones I see that look appealing all are in the $3000 range, and I just can't go that much.

 

[MMagis]

The large caged containers are plenty strong. They have one large open/shut drain valve at the bottom, so you’ll have to drill holes. But, you’ll have to drill holes for inlet/outlet in most any tank you get, except for those made specifically for sprayers.
A constant vehicle speed is critical for spraying a lot of herbicides, and it’s very hard to maintain steady, slow speeds in a truck sometimes. At least for me it is.

 

[newbury]

For the OP's use I'd recommend several totes.
Get the ones you can use for drinking water (might as well be safe) and you should be able to find them for about $60 to $120 each (I think a 200 gallon poly tank at Northern Tool runs about $300).

The IBC's I've got have a large opening (2"?) on the top w/ a cover and a valved opening on the base.
I've a rather complicated rain water collection system set up.

The broken cooler (lidless) collects water from about 500 sq ft of roof and it drains into the IBC. Collected about 150 liters the first rainfall

If you can drive the truck around to spray you can fit a sprayer pump head to the tote.

What I would do is put 2 totes in the truck on pallets, fill them, tie them down well. Trailer the tractor with either a 3pt pallet mover like I have and another full IBC w/ sprayer or I'd use the 25 gallon the OP has. Drive to site 1, unload the tractor (w/ pallet mover and IBC or 25 gallon & sprayer attached). Spray. Refill from truck when needed. Then as soon as I had one of the IBC's (clean and pure) in the truck empty I'd carry it off the truck, drop it at one of my sites, drain the full one into the empty one and thus leave about 300 gallons of clean water at the site.

I've 5 separate parcels in Mississippi away from plumbing. I'd like to eventually drop one or more IBC's at each site as a water "source".

 

[MMagis]

I've 5 separate parcels in Mississippi away from plumbing. I'd like to eventually drop one or more IBC's at each site as a water "source".

Water left in those tanks won't stay safe for long, without treatment. You may already realize this, but I thought I'd mention it.

 

[Smallplot]

HCJ, how many gallon per acre do you currently use? What kind of boom and nozzle set up are on your ATV sprayer? How many times a year do you have to spray?

I can cover an acre in pretty short order with my boom spraying right at 12 foot wide @ 11 Gal per acre. That figures up to about 6 acres per hour @ 5MPH + 3 fill ups at say 10 minutes each. Besides the fill ups give my pump a chance to cool down.

Purchase some flags to mark a stopping point if needed and a water tank, install a 2 inch hose from the tank to fill your spray tank with gravity flow from either truck bed or on trailer. Trailer the ATV and water tank with enough water to spray the entire area. Only mix your herbicides in the sprayer tank as it will be easier to clean out your sprayer tank than a storage tank. Have two shut off valves, one off the tank to remove the hose for storage/trailering and an additional shut off on the fill end to allow easy shut off when filling. Mixing chemicals in the sprayer tank only, allows you to change chemicals for different fields or tweak herbicide rates for different portions of the field. May take a little longer, not much, but way more cost effective and easier / quicker than trailering a tractor back and forth.

And if you are spraying trails you will not want to be pulling a trailer to do this, at least not a trailer with 200 Gal of water

Just my :2cents: but you have to have a boom set up right to be able to do this.

 

[rambler]

My main goal is to get a system I can "get her done" quickly. I wish I could build a rig that holds enough for 8 or 10 acres, is portable enough to drive to the site, and will allow me just to drive around and sprays the plots, and then go home.

I've got a 100 gallon (actually holds 110 gallons) 3pt sprayer with a 20 foot boom. Sprays exactly 8 acres on a fill. Pto driven.

Not many farmers still using such small riigs around here, was at a consignment sale today and 5 sprayers, 2 of them didn't bring $200 the owners no-saled them, the rest were 300 gallon 40 foot boom pull type simple sprayers, went $500-700. You can't build one for that.

Doesn't help you directly, but some thoughts on the topic I guess?

--->Paul

 

[newbury]

Water left in those tanks won't stay safe for long, without treatment. You may already realize this, but I thought I'd mention it.

Well "safe" is relative to what I'd be doing with it. I mainly want water at remote locations to mix w/ herbicides and insecticides, to rinse mud off equipment and myself, etc.

I wouldn't plan on using it for surgical procedures or cooking or drinking.

It's real easy to carry water to drink, takes a lot more to wash clay off my boots, mix 10 gallons of spray, etc.

/edit
I've been using my complicated rain water collection system I showed you to rinse sawdust off the pavement and dust off the car.

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

Thanks. I will check those out. How do you have your tank rigged? Is it a trailer? Where do you get a power source? Alligator clips to your battery, or a dedicated battery, or a plug? A good 12 volt pump would sure make my design easier and allow me to use either my truck or my tractor to dispense.

I put the tank in my truck bed and have a remote switch in the cab. I have a battery in the bed and use alligator clips.
I bought a 3 point fork lift frame to try this year. The battery will be tied to the top of the tank and I'll mount the pump on the back. Probably can't lift a full tank but I'll fill it as much as I can.

 

[HCJtractor]

That sounds ideal for me. I could build a frame and have it either for my truck bed or 3 point if my tractor was on site.

Several questions. Will a battey last long enough to pump 200 gallons without a charge? Boom or boomless? Got any pictures? Did youplumb it yourself? Any problem going the right speed? Thanks!!

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

That sounds ideal for me. I could build a frame and have it either for my truck bed or 3 point if my tractor was on site.

Several questions. Will a battey last long enough to pump 200 gallons without a charge? Boom or boomless? Got any pictures? Did youplumb it yourself? Any problem going the right speed? Thanks!!

I use a deep cycle battery and it lasts long enough to unload 2 tanks when I water my trees. I have a picture attached of the setup to water trees. I use a boomless nozzle for spraying roundup. It gives me a 16' spray that works very well. I do need a recycle line back to the tank due to my high pump rate. I put a valve in the recycle line to control the width of the spray.
It is easy for me to maintain my speed because my fields are flat and level. I think the tractor would be even easier.
Here is the pallet mover attachment I'm going to try this year. I got mine from Tractor Supply. I'll post some pictures when I get it set up.
King Kutter Pallet Mover, Model# PM-15 | 3-Point Category 1 Implements | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[HCJtractor]

Thanks for the info. I think i will copy your idea! I already have a leinbach carryall that i never use. Just need to buy a tote and pump. That fat boy looks pretty strong. Boomless also seems way to go. I also just bought a wireless fimco remote switch that should work. I need to figure out what boomless tip and what height to mount it. I guess a inline filter/strainer would also be good. Keep us posted on your progress. Thanks again

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

Thanks for the info. I think i will copy your idea! I already have a leinbach carryall that i never use. Just need to buy a tote and pump. That fat boy looks pretty strong. Boomless also seems way to go. I also just bought a wireless fimco remote switch that should work. I need to figure out what boomless tip and what height to mount it. I guess a inline filter/strainer would also be good. Keep us posted on your progress. Thanks again

DEFINITELY use an in line filter. I found one at Wal-Mart that has hose connections and a wire screen. Look in the garden section. Zoom in on the picture to see the filter connected at the pump suction. I have cleaned it out numerous times.
You need to experiment with the height of the nozzle to get the width you want and to prevent wind drift. My nozzle came with an adjustable bar for height and a few C bolts. I don't remember where I got mine but Agri Supply should have one.
BTW, be sure to use a "deep cycle" battery. They are better designed for long use and constant discharge.

 

[newbury]

Here is the pallet mover attachment I'm going to try this year. I got mine from Tractor Supply. I'll post some pictures when I get it set up.
King Kutter Pallet Mover, Model# PM-15 | 3-Point Category 1 Implements | Northern Tool + Equipment

At $350 that is kind of pricy.
Agrisupply has several and I got the 3-Point Pallet Fork a couple of years ago, works well. Now it's $150.

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

At $350 that is kind of pricy.
Agrisupply has several and I got the 3-Point Pallet Fork a couple of years ago, works well. Now it's $150.

I bought mine from Tractor Supply for less than $200. I just used a picture from Northern Tool web site to show it. I can now find them made locally for $150 and painted to match your tractor color.