Spraying herbicide??? Tell me how

[hrcarver]

Boomless nozzle are good enough for glyphosate if you make double passes. For anything I wanted to kill growing in something that I did NOT want to kill(ie: grass in clover) I'd use a boom.

Most boomless nozzles do not throw that high, but you can use a spray wand from the seat of the tractor for road widening with something like crossbow.

 

[clemsonfor]

Some 4-wheeler sprayers are "boomless" yet put out a wide swath. Others have foldable booms. I have been told that the foldable booms may give more accurate even coverage but for food plots, the boomless style is "good enough." From what I can see, Tractor Supply only sells the boomless style. Any thoughts on which is better overall?

We also spend a lot of time on the edges of roads and plots that keep closing in every year. Does anyone spray laterally to minimize this? Just wondered. Thanks for all the info. Keep it coming!!

If this is a problem i would. I'd take a wand type sprayer either on your 4 wheeler sprayer or backpack or even the 2 gallon pump type and spray all down the sides of the woods into the edge to get all the grasses and sweetgums and pines the "creep" in. For this i would use Glyphosate (roundup) as it will not kill anything that you contact only the woody stem, like the bark of a tree. So if you hunting a pine plantation you can spray the edge kill grass and small sapling pine but not kill the crop trees. If in Hardwood you wont kill them unless you get it on the leaves, this is true even for a tree as small a 1'' diameter, it wont kill it unless you get the leaves. You have to hit "green" material, weather it be a green stem like in grasses or the leaves.

But my point is you can trim branches on large trees (only do this if you dont care if the tree dies , it may) kill grass and small trees that you can spray overtop of to help keep them from creeping into the plot area.

Where in UPstate are you? I live in Greenwood co, and have afarm in Lancaster Co.


-Nate

 

[Ford tractor]

The round-up and generics will kill everything. You may not need to do that. I've been using "sethoxydim" by brand name of Poast or Poast Plus with crop oil. (I will check out the clethodim if it's cheaper and as effective).

From experience, the sethoxydim works best early spring when the ground is still almost too wet. Grasses in the 1-2" height. Around here, the best time to spray will rut the fields up real bad and probably stick the tractor. But, it does work later in spring when the fields are dry, but you have to mow a week in advance then spray. Takes 4 weeks to kill, but you can see the missed areas as green swaths in red after 2 weeks.

I was able to spray my home plots this year, but not my remote ones due to 2 1/2 " of rain a week since June. Everything is still soggy in the mostly low remote acreage. The home plots have a few grasses sticking up, but the remote areas are mostly grass with some clover under it. A crying shame with the cost to plant.


I use a 3pt 30 gal sprayer. It's really too small for anything over 1 acre. But it's what I could afford....

 

[KU Gator]

I think I saw you are in SC. I ordered a Fimco brand through AgriSupply as it was cheaper even with shipping than buying it locally. I talked to the people at Fimco prior to buying and given my primary application is broad leaf weed control and I wasn't looking for precision, he suggested the boomless. I wanted to not have to worry about hitting the booms on trees and the boomless allows me to go down a fence line or edge of the woods. I added a wand and it is pretty effective for getting the ditches. There are different pumps for round-up type products, so watch that when buying.

55 GALLON 3 PT SPRAYER - Agri Supply