Spreading Asphalt Millings?

[zmansmac]

I am also thinking about getting asphalt millings on my limestone driveway. I've read before where some companies have rather large chunks in their millings which seems like it would be a problem trying to get a fairly level, smooth surface. Is there a particular size I should look for? I also understand that it's better to do this when it's warm but here in Michigan right now we're lucky to see a 70 degree day now and then.

JohnZ
B7500

 

[Soundguy]

Not doing this will result in a mess that will fail in a year or less, depending on the soil and amount of rain. Making it thicker then 2 inches wont make up for not having a proper sub base. Asphault has not strength, and has to be on something that does..

err.. not exactly.

research black base.

you can cut subgrade out of raw existing material, and lay asphalt right ont he subgrade with no stabilizer or rock or red clay... may places do this for turn lane additions to limited access roadways that cannot have traffic closed for any length of time.

black base takes less prep to install, goes in faster, and is driveable faster, with a minimum spent on MOT ( mantenance of traffic ).

for instance.. instead of boxing out 12", installing say 8" of lime rock, then 3-4" of asphalt, etc, you can cut and lay 10-12" of asphalt . BTDT, had great results.

soundguy

 

[EddieWalker]

Soundguy,

I never heard of blackbase, but appreciate that there are a dozen or more ways to get the same results. Local conditions and what is available are the final deciders in any build, but the basics are always going to be the same. Get a solid foundation before building on it if you want it to last. How and what is used is realy the core of any type of construction project.

I'm not a big fan of fabric either. I know it has it's place, and it will make up for a lack of a solid base to some degree, but it's not the ideal aproach. Getting rid of the water and drying out the ground you want to build on is the ideal approach. No need for fabric if that's done, but of course, fabric will help stabalize a well built road, just like it will a poorly built one. Relying on it is where you take the chance that it might not last or overcome the conditions present and not last very long. When spending thousands of dollars on anything, it's nice to know it will last and not wash away in a few years.

Eddie

 

[Egon]

Eddie; asphalt laid down in a much deeper lift on the existing base[ground] may be what is being referred to.

Alongside of existing roadways or repairing holes etc. it may be much easier to just dig out and replace with a deep lift of asphalt. Means less traffic interference and less damage to existing roadway surfaces. ??

In the north frost heaves may be dealt with in this manner. A hole to below frost level-coarse granular material and then a heavy layer of asphalt.

The fabric does have it's uses as in crossing larger swamp areas through which a road must be built.

In the past these type of area's were filled with dirt till it reached a solid base or had just enough fill dirt hauled in to provide a solid surface but still "Float" on the muskeg. In the north country this type of approach works best in the winter when the frozen muskeg allows easy travel for the equipment. Of course come spring time it takes a while and some work before it can be called finished. Some cases an extra two feet or so of dirt is hauled in and left for several years after which it is removed

Fabric may be over recommended when there is no local knowledge of the site.??

 

[Soundguy]

exactly.. black base is just deep asphalt.. no stabilizer material.

box and lay.

fast.. less traffic maint.. lest disturbance of existing road and utilities, quick ( equates to cheaper ).. sure he asphalt is more $ up front than the stabilizer material.. but it becomes a was when you can drive up to a grassy median and have a dozer and loader driving in front of you boxing, and an asphalt machine laying behind them and do a 1/4 mile of installed road in a couple hours at a time.

as for eddies comment on working in wet areas.. yuck.. hat eto do it. Have worked in areas where the water table is simply a few inches under the road bed. in mst of those cases we have either went soil cement.. or soil cement sub stabilization with black base over it. pretty bad when the ground oozes up water as the heavy equipment drive over it.. BTDT.. got the soggy boots.

not a real fan of fabric either..

soundguy

Eddie; asphalt laid down in a much deeper lift on the existing base[ground] may be what is being referred to.

Alongside of existing roadways or repairing holes etc. it may be much easier to just dig out and replace with a deep lift of asphalt. Means less traffic interference and less damage to existing roadway surfaces. ??

In the north frost heaves may be dealt with in this manner. A hole to below frost level-coarse granular material and then a heavy layer of asphalt.

The fabric does have it's uses as in crossing larger swamp areas through which a road must be built.

In the past these type of area's were filled with dirt till it reached a solid base or had just enough fill dirt hauled in to provide a solid surface but still "Float" on the muskeg. In the north country this type of approach works best in the winter when the frozen muskeg allows easy travel for the equipment. Of course come spring time it takes a while and some work before it can be called finished. Some cases an extra two feet or so of dirt is hauled in and left for several years after which it is removed

Fabric may be over recommended when there is no local knowledge of the site.??