I'll remember the trick about hot/cold. In this case, it was cold/cold since I only cycled the grapple to see if it worked then put it away. I'm still thinking of removing the SS connectors and replacing them with normal ones. The engagement even when the system was new seemed inordinately difficult.
SS impossible connectors
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jmc
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With the engine OFF but power to the valve solenoids, have someone hold the valve open while you connect the couplers. This always works for me on both of my machines, even when pre-relieving pressure does not. Since I almost never have anyone to help, I keep a small C-clamp handy to depress the buttons.
My theory is that the coupler has to displace a little fluid during the connection. if the hoses are completely full between the valve and coupler, there is no place for the fluid to go. Holding the valve open provides an escape route. They really connect easily that way.
Someday I may wire a switch up by the couplers to open the solenoid valves from there. No wife or c-clamp necessary then.
My theory is that the coupler has to displace a little fluid during the connection. if the hoses are completely full between the valve and coupler, there is no place for the fluid to go. Holding the valve open provides an escape route. They really connect easily that way.
Someday I may wire a switch up by the couplers to open the solenoid valves from there. No wife or c-clamp necessary then.
LD1
Epic Contributor
I hate Flat face SS couplers too.
So much so that I just swapped them out for 1/4" ISO 7241 B couplers. (parker 60 series....I run these on my snowplows too)
The whole idea behind the flush face couplers are that they are a low/no-spill design.
Without spilling those few drops of oil, they are indeed a bear to hook up.
As expensive as they are, if you still like the flat face couplers....they DO make a CONNECT UNDER PRESSURE version. You are supposed to be able to disconnect and reconnect under full rated pressure with ease. But they are even more money than the already expensive standard flat face couplers
So much so that I just swapped them out for 1/4" ISO 7241 B couplers. (parker 60 series....I run these on my snowplows too)
The whole idea behind the flush face couplers are that they are a low/no-spill design.
Without spilling those few drops of oil, they are indeed a bear to hook up.
As expensive as they are, if you still like the flat face couplers....they DO make a CONNECT UNDER PRESSURE version. You are supposed to be able to disconnect and reconnect under full rated pressure with ease. But they are even more money than the already expensive standard flat face couplers
k0ua
Epic Contributor
I use the standard 1/2 inch AG connectors but I do this when stopping and taking the grapple off. I shut off the tractor and then operate the valve back and forth several times to relieve pressure. If you have the electric/hydraulic valve then follow the above instructions about turning off the engine and turning the key back on to re-energize the solenoid.
I then disconnect the hoses from the tractor, and since I have both a male and a female connector on the hoses, I immediately connect the hoses to each other. I then immediately disconnect the hoses once again from each other. This allows a very small amount of oil to "puke" out of the hoses. Now the hoses have a deficit of oil in them. I then reconnect the hoses for storage. The male and female connectors help insure that dirt or damage does not occur to the fittings. It also insure you can never hook them up backwards.
Using this procedure, you will never never ever have a problem hooking back up to the tractor. No matter hot or cold or whatever. Remember, the key is allowing some oil to "puke" out of the hoses.
I then disconnect the hoses from the tractor, and since I have both a male and a female connector on the hoses, I immediately connect the hoses to each other. I then immediately disconnect the hoses once again from each other. This allows a very small amount of oil to "puke" out of the hoses. Now the hoses have a deficit of oil in them. I then reconnect the hoses for storage. The male and female connectors help insure that dirt or damage does not occur to the fittings. It also insure you can never hook them up backwards.
Using this procedure, you will never never ever have a problem hooking back up to the tractor. No matter hot or cold or whatever. Remember, the key is allowing some oil to "puke" out of the hoses.
LouNY
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I just received my current issue of Farm Show and it had this article in it on hydraulic connectors and a tool to relieve the pressure on them;
View attachment hydraulic.jpg
It looks like it may be hard to read here is a link to the tool;
Boling Machine
View attachment hydraulic.jpg
It looks like it may be hard to read here is a link to the tool;
Boling Machine
ovrszd
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I immediately connect the hoses to each other. I then immediately disconnect the hoses once again from each other. This allows a very small amount of oil to "puke" out of the hoses. Now the hoses have a deficit of oil in them. I then reconnect the hoses for storage. The male and female connectors help insure that dirt or damage does not occur to the fittings. It also insure you can never hook them up backwards.
Using this procedure, you will never never ever have a problem hooking back up to the tractor. No matter hot or cold or whatever. Remember, the key is allowing some oil to "puke" out of the hoses.
Good tip James!!!!
I use the standard 1/2 inch AG connectors but I do this when stopping and taking the grapple off. I shut off the tractor and then operate the valve back and forth several times to relieve pressure. If you have the electric/hydraulic valve then follow the above instructions about turning off the engine and turning the key back on to re-energize the solenoid.
I then disconnect the hoses from the tractor, and since I have both a male and a female connector on the hoses, I immediately connect the hoses to each other. I then immediately disconnect the hoses once again from each other. This allows a very small amount of oil to "puke" out of the hoses. Now the hoses have a deficit of oil in them. I then reconnect the hoses for storage. The male and female connectors help insure that dirt or damage does not occur to the fittings. It also insure you can never hook them up backwards.
Using this procedure, you will never never ever have a problem hooking back up to the tractor. No matter hot or cold or whatever. Remember, the key is allowing some oil to "puke" out of the hoses.
The times I have run into issues, has been when the lid for my grapple is in the up position and I have disconnected the lines. The weight of the lid will make it want to sag over time..putting pressure on the lines and causing it to be tough to re hook up. .. remembering to disconnect get it with the lid down eliminates the problem.
bdhsfz6
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I've had this issue for many years. I've tried all the remedies suggested in this thread with little or no result. For me, the problem is always with the implement connectors since the tractor side is easily depressurized using the methods previously described.
The first thing I did was dump the SS flat faced couplers and replace them with the Pioneer Ag style. I use female connectors on the tractors and the cheaper male on the implements. If necessary, the pressure can be relieved by tapping the ball in the connector end on a clean hard surface and releasing some oil.
For implements that are prone to pressure binding from cylinder creep, I use a simple manifold and keep the hose ends connected to it while in storage:
The simplest, cheapest but less glamorous way to prevent implement pressure binding is to use the open ended male Pioneer style Ag connectors without the ball check valve. When not in use, put the connector end in a heavy duty zip top sandwich bag and hold it in place with a rubber band. First, hold the bag open under the connector when breaking the connection to catch the leaking oil. When reconnecting, remove the bag, zip it closed with the leaked oil inside and toss it in the trash or burn barrel.
The first thing I did was dump the SS flat faced couplers and replace them with the Pioneer Ag style. I use female connectors on the tractors and the cheaper male on the implements. If necessary, the pressure can be relieved by tapping the ball in the connector end on a clean hard surface and releasing some oil.
For implements that are prone to pressure binding from cylinder creep, I use a simple manifold and keep the hose ends connected to it while in storage:
The simplest, cheapest but less glamorous way to prevent implement pressure binding is to use the open ended male Pioneer style Ag connectors without the ball check valve. When not in use, put the connector end in a heavy duty zip top sandwich bag and hold it in place with a rubber band. First, hold the bag open under the connector when breaking the connection to catch the leaking oil. When reconnecting, remove the bag, zip it closed with the leaked oil inside and toss it in the trash or burn barrel.
lostcreekranch
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If I plan to take one of my Grapples off, I open and close lid several times to get the hydraulic fluid really warmed up. Then I always close the lid. Shut off tractor, then key to on and cycle the 3rd function valve several times. Disconnect hoses in put end protector caps on. My grapples sit on a couple of stacked pallets under roof on shady side of my shop. My LS XR4155HC has 7241-B couplers.
When it’s time to hookup, I turn key to on, with engine off, and cycle 3rd function several times, then key off and connect hoses. I never have an issue hooking up again.
I use same procedure for my tree / post puller too.
My 96 HP New Holland TL100A and 84” HD grapple have flat face skid steer couplers, same procedure. I am considering changing to the 7241-B couplers so, I can use both grapples and tree/ post puller on either tractor.
Like others have noted, my 3rd function couplers are polarized so, grapples, etc. hookup same way every time. When I depress top of 3rd function toggle switch the lid opens. Press bottom side and lid closes. This makes Grapple operation very intuitive and almost muscle memory. When I hookup tree puller, depressing top side of toggle opens the jaws and bottom side closes jaws.
BTW, don’t waste your money on those pressure relieving tools. Take your $50 and buy cases of ice cold beer (or adult beverage of your choice) for relaxing after a successful day of grappling.
When it’s time to hookup, I turn key to on, with engine off, and cycle 3rd function several times, then key off and connect hoses. I never have an issue hooking up again.
I use same procedure for my tree / post puller too.
My 96 HP New Holland TL100A and 84” HD grapple have flat face skid steer couplers, same procedure. I am considering changing to the 7241-B couplers so, I can use both grapples and tree/ post puller on either tractor.
Like others have noted, my 3rd function couplers are polarized so, grapples, etc. hookup same way every time. When I depress top of 3rd function toggle switch the lid opens. Press bottom side and lid closes. This makes Grapple operation very intuitive and almost muscle memory. When I hookup tree puller, depressing top side of toggle opens the jaws and bottom side closes jaws.
BTW, don’t waste your money on those pressure relieving tools. Take your $50 and buy cases of ice cold beer (or adult beverage of your choice) for relaxing after a successful day of grappling.
