Stabilizer question

[Davo]

I'm new to backhoes and inadvertently gouged the crome part of the stabilizer piston on my jd 448 backhoe. Will I have problems in the future or do you think it should be ok? Also if you suspect I may have problems do you have a fix for the gouge? Thanks

 

[JerryG]

It depends up on the nature of the gouge. Make sure that the edges are smooth. If they are rough they will cut or tear the seal. If it has any depth to it, you can make sure that there isn't any oil on it and then put JB Weld on. Make sure that it is also smooth. I have fixed several this way and haven't had any problems.

 

[Davo]

Thanks Jerry. There is a little ridge on the edge of the gouge. i'll just genty grind the rough edges out with my die grinder. We live and learn by our mistakes.

 

[TheKid]

If it was me I'd stay away from a die grinder. One slip and your grinding some place you didn't want to. I'd use a fine tooth single cut file or a diamond file and then follow up with 320, 400, 800, and 1200 wet/dry sand paper to polish the area.

 

[Soundguy]

We've had good luck silver soldering or brazing up gouges.. then polishing them as smooth as possible. Seems to save the seals and lower the leaks.

We've tried the epoxy route, only to have it lift sometimes and then contaminate the system.. other times it has worked fine for years.. etc.

soundguy

 

[Davo]

Thanks guys for the good advice. I'll try the file route instead of the grinder. Soundguy what would you polish the metal with after you braze it?

 

[Indydirtfarmer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

We've tried the epoxy route, only to have it lift sometimes and then contaminate the system.. other times it has worked fine for years.. etc.

soundguy )</font>

You beat me to the punch on that one!

JB WELD is good stuff FOR SOME THINGS, but I'd stay away from internal hydraulic or engine "fixes" with it.

 

[v8dave]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If it was me I'd stay away from a die grinder. One slip and your grinding some place you didn't want to. I'd use a fine tooth single cut file or a diamond file and then follow up with 320, 400, 800, and 1200 wet/dry sand paper to polish the area. )</font>

Try a [knife sharpening] stone instead of a file if the ridge is fairly small. Or at the second stage to clean up the file's rough edges. It's rigid enough to keep from form fitting the areas around the gouge and fine enough for a polish finish. In other words it won't sand the polished areas around the gouge like sand paper would under your fingers.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree..

A very fine file to initially dress the high spots on the gouge and filled brass area.. then a diamond or stone rigid hone to finish polish.. being carefull to not disturb any more native chromed areas sourounding the repair as possible. A cloth and some polishing compound may add the finishing touch if you like, right in the area of the repair.. giving it a burnished look.

We have one repair on a 2400$ lift piston/cyl on a JD track hoe that had a nick about an inch long.. it was dressed as I mentioned after running some brass around it.. it now appears as a small 'gold' colored area that is virtually as smooth as the sourounding metal... you have to look to see it.. running your hand on it is hard to find.. at least my rought cracked hands are anyway...

Soundguy

 

[frank_f15]

would the heat required for SILVER SOLDER damage the seals?

 

[Soundguy]

Silver solder will require lower heat than brass.. but more heat than regular solder.. however silver solder will withstand more abuse than regular solder.

Lots of dbl barrel shotguns have silver solvered center ribs.. also.. I know the oil pump pickup tube in my ford tractos are silver soldered to the oil pump... sticks to steel/iron VERY good.

I'd run the damaged section well away from the wiper and seal.. and if I couldn't get more than 4" away.. I'd lay a wet rag over the metal right next to the seal.

For the real electronic buffs.. you can get a solder het protector gell and can lay abead on the seal.. it was made to 'pot' / heatsink components and wick heat away to prevent them from cooking while soldering.. etc.

soundguy

 

[Davo]

I really appreciate all the advice. I filed down the ridges today and they feel good. The gouge in question is about 4 inches long(i know what was i thinking) being a rookie maybe thats not too long /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Anyway I had a follow-up question- when I braze this stabilizer that is hardened steel, will it weaken it at all? Also, the gouge is near the footpad on the stabilizer and when full up will be inside the piston. Should I wait for seal to be damaged or fix it now? the depth is about 1/16-1/32 deep. not much in my mind but I'm sure you guys know better. Maybe being that shallow it will not damage the seal and i should leave it alone. What do you guys think?
Thanks again
davo

 

[Soundguy]

For a piston application.. I don't tink a little propane and solder.. or mapp and brass is gonna hurt it much. Since the cut is so far from the wipe / seal.. I'd run it out well away and repair now. And yes.. even that shallow gouge will let the seal deform and drag.. or at least bypass.. etc.

Soundguy