OP
jmc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2003
- Messages
- 3,099
- Location
- SW Indiana
- Tractor
- Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST
It's hard to describe a 3D contour:
If I'm descending this 100 foot long trail section, the top half of which is slippery, I'm going down a narrow, 20 degree slope. Luckily, there is no side to side slope. On my right, there is a drop off along the slippery section. On my left, there's nice trees I don't want to remove. Also, the slippery section curves slightly to the left, so loss of straight-line traction (sledding) could send you off the trail as well.
This section is worth some effort since it connects a nice but dead end trail along the creek with a loop on the ridge. Staircase effect due to cross timbers would be taken at creeping speed, due to the pucker factor in this section.
Hammer drill would work well in bedrock section but iffy in rubble.
As a first step, I might just cover the section with nearby river gravel and see how it look. Then build up from there.
If I'm descending this 100 foot long trail section, the top half of which is slippery, I'm going down a narrow, 20 degree slope. Luckily, there is no side to side slope. On my right, there is a drop off along the slippery section. On my left, there's nice trees I don't want to remove. Also, the slippery section curves slightly to the left, so loss of straight-line traction (sledding) could send you off the trail as well.
This section is worth some effort since it connects a nice but dead end trail along the creek with a loop on the ridge. Staircase effect due to cross timbers would be taken at creeping speed, due to the pucker factor in this section.
Hammer drill would work well in bedrock section but iffy in rubble.
As a first step, I might just cover the section with nearby river gravel and see how it look. Then build up from there.