Standard ROPS lights getting battered.

[RalphVa]

The lights on my 4010 ROPS are getting battered by tree limbs. One lost one of the bolts. The metal insert into the plastic of the light body was jerked out. The bolt plus insert apparently will go through the holes in the ROPS. It's lost somewhere.

The parts lady suggested that I move the lights to the inside of the ROPS, requiring switching them because of the way they're configured. I bought another light body, which comes with the wires, etc. and switched them out this afternoon. Don't know why JD didn't mount them on the inside of the ROPS from the beginning.

Ralph

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Different tractor, but similar story. My ROPS lights are mounted UNDER the ROPS and off the BACK side so they end up being slightly behind the ROPS and under it. The combination seems to have worked, I've not knocked one off this tractor yet.

 

[mhalla]

<font color="green">Ralph,

Although I switched my lights to the inside of my ROPS on my 2210 for the very same reason you did, there is a good reason for why they are on the outside.

It probably has to do with has to do with standards for lights on tractors driven on roads - specifically flashing warning lamps for agricultural equipment (SAE J974).

Mounting the lights on the inside of the ROPS makes the lights closer together and thus no longer in compliance with the SAE J974 standard that calls for the lights to be spaced as widely as practicable.

I seem to recall another pertinent standard that specifies the minimum distance from the centerline of the tractor for a warning light.

The only time I use my 2210 on the road is to mow the strip of grass between the road and my woods. Under that circumstance I figure I am assuming an acceptable level of risk by having my warning lights closer together.

Mike</font>

 

[JD2210MAN]

Mike has it right.
From what I can recall, NY has the most strict laws. For example, the 2210 only has one red tail lamp. This was suggested to be done because the height/width must be at a certain spacing/height. With the 2210 there was not enough space. Tractors must be distinguishable from a licensed motor vehicle, by drivers. My two cents, if they are that stupid to hit a tractor... obviously they should not be behind the wheel. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

I am on the road all the time and people were infinitely telling me I have a tail light out (assuming there should be two red lights) so I added one. It was very easy... I took a GM dash board lamp holder and soldered some wires to it. Made a hole in the same baffle as the other side, added a baffle below to keep the light behind the red, and just added a lens for the other side. I will post some pictures if anyone has interest. Now I am illegal in NY (I don't drive to NY anyway) but all the comments "You have a tail light out" have ended.

 

[RalphVa]

I don't plan on using my 4010 on the road at all. That's one of the reasons why I went with no chain guard on the back of the LX4 cutter. If I hadn't switched the lights to the inside, they'd eventually both get torn off: no lights. So, lights on the inside are better than no lights.

Ralph

 

[millsnhills]

Ralph,

I am am glad I am not the only one to have had this problem I have lost a few bolts now in transit and currently am using electrical tape to hold one in place while I get a new bolt.

 

[Crabgrass]

Be careful if you move the lights to inside the rops. I've knocked my head against the rops several times, mostly when backing up over rough terrain, and my lights are still on the outside. Having lights in that area would make it that much more likely.

A better option may be light guards. They are a steel guard that bolt to the rops and go around the lights. I put them on my 4400 but I'm not sure if they fit the 4010 chassis. I don't have the part numbers handy but can get them, or I'm sure somebody else has them handy.

 

[mhalla]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( A better option may be light guards. They are a steel guard that bolt to the rops and go around the lights.)</font>

<font color="green">Crabgrass, how do these light guards bolt to the ROPS? With their own bolts or using the same bolt that mounts the light?

I have seen a guard that appears to use the same bolt that mounts the light to the ROP and thought all you'd be doing then is knocking off both the guard and the light when hitting a branch.

Mike </font>

 

[stuart]

Ralph: Stay out of those Virginia woods and your lights will be fine where they were.

 

[JD2210MAN]

Mike,
I planned to make gaurds for the 2210 and mount them with the bolts, as you mention... but now I realize that would not work. It would all just come off as a unit. I am glad this was brought to light before I put any time into it!!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

After breaking one light, the first month I had it, I am extra careful now. My wife and I cut all the limbs that are near the ROPS level. I never imagioned she would let me... she even helped. So if I break another, it will happen when out in the woods or when doing something very stupid (Which has been known to happen). /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif