Start up and operating rpms

[bxowner]

This is an embarrassing and, frankly, stupid question. But one that I think has some merit in asking:

Whenever I start my 2320 (usually on Saturday morning, after having sat since the previous Sunday night), I let it idle for 2-3 minutes before moving. I then let it idle for 15-20 seconds before turning off for the week.

When I have to get off the machine for more than 2 minutes or so, I turn it off, or at least return it to idle. Then I bring it up to just below the 540rpm level for most work.

Is this a ridiculous waste of effort? Can the diesel handle less "babying?" Am I doing more harm than good by turning it off and starting it half-a-dozen times a day?

I ask this after reading a thread on PTO generators - and how people theorize that they can run their diesel tractor for hours and hours - days in fact - at full rpm with no problem. I doubt I've ever run a tractor for more than 2 hours without a break.

 

[billb3]

Maybe I have a different engine, (2520) but I see this 540 rpm mentioned a lot.

Mine doesn't idle below 800 RPM and I usually run the BH and FEL at 1400RPM. Any more than that and the hydraulics just run too fast and jerky, especially the backhoe. 14/1500 RPM seems to be a good transport speed too, in low or high.
I always figured the mentioned 540 was PTO RPM, but I have no clue how I'd tell.

I get about 2 hours per gallon which seems about similar to others.


I don't have a mower, but I sure would like a claw (to grab logs), and a snow plow instead of a bucket out front for the Winter.


I only idle while I'm off the tractor or putting the ROPS up or down to go in our out under the garage door.

 

[RalphVa]

I've NEVER EVER done the warmup thing with cars. Just start them and drive gently for the first couple miles. I do the same with my tractor. Start at 1000-1500 rpm (usually the higher in cold weather, as it won't run smoothly at 1000 when really cold). Rev to 1500 if not there already. Raise FEL and 3PH. Go out the door. Just work at 1500ish rpm for a few minutes. Rev only to the "540" point only with my shredder and brush hog. Otherwise, it's about 2000 rpm for most work. CERTAINLY never ever let it sit idling before shutting it down. This is generally only done on turbo-charged engines after they've been worked hard, debatable if you have synthetic oil whether you need to do it then.

Ralph

 

[smitty9266]

540 RPM refers to the mark on the tach that shows where 540 PTO rpm is achieved. The actual engine RPM is far greater and different on most tractors. Usually most people will operate the engine RPM's at the 540 PTO rpm mark for mowing, box blading and such, I think most of us believe this is where the best engine performance occurs.

 

[davkir]

If I've been running mine with a heavy load at PTO speed, which is mainly while bush hogging pastures, I always reduce the engine speed for several minutes after I'm done to let it cool.
That is also recommended in the manual.
If I'm just using the loader or moving stuff around at a lower RPM that doesn't really use a lot of power, I don't worry about a "cool down" period.

 

[KML]

I usually start it, bring it up to ~1800 rpm and slowly back it out of the garage, just enough to get the exhaust out of the door and let it run for 2 - 3 minutes. If I need to get off the tractor for a few minutes I either leave it at 1800 RPM or shut it off. If I've been working it hard I leave it run for a few minutes before shuting it off. Only reason I do it this way is that's what my owners manual says to do and who am I to argue with JD

7. Adjust hand throttle rearward to set engine speed at slow idle speed. Allow engine to idle for 2 minutes.

8. Turn key switch to OFF position.

 

[WH401]

I usually start it and let it idle for a few seconds to get the fluids flowing. I set the RPM at about 1500 for all tasks other then mowing and away I go. I do shut it off alot, though only to keep from breathing the exhaust.

 

[RalphVa]

I use the "540" setting for brush hogging and shredding. Otherwise, I run at 1500-2000 rpm depending on whether I'm going uphill or down. For heavy FEL work, I'll run it up near the "540" set point.

Find a torque curve for your engine. The most efficient point is where it is very flat. It's likely very flat from about 1700-1800 rpm up to around 2500 rpm or so. The "540" setting is probably the maximum hp point.

Ralph

 

[crashz]

A tractor engine, like most commercial off road diesels, is made to run at peak power continuously for its life of X amount of hours. Where as automotive applications are certainly not.

But an old mechanic friend of mine said that each engine only has a given amount of horsepower-hours. So an engine that will last for 3000 hrs at peak power of say 30 Hp, might last 4000 hrs if it averages only 22.5 Hp. Seems like some experienced members here have witnessed a similar occurance, and it makes sense that the more fuel burned will create more wear.

So I think you are doing fine for your tractor. No they don't need to be babied. But your current habits can't hurt it. You may want to cut down on the warm up time however. A diesel really doesn't warm up unitl its working, so some mild rpms and easy work will warm it up faster than idling cold.

 

[Andy Z]

I just bought a Kubota B2620 hsd. I was dragging harrows with heavy rocks on it to grade. I was running low gear at about 1500 rpm. Is that too low of rpm? What is the optimal rpm for heavy loads? The tractor wasn't struggling at all.