Starter circuit problem

[patrick_g]

Larry, I'm not casting aspersions on your technical expertise. Maybe I was not too clear but the two main things I tried to communicate were engaging the starter to test the path to the starter is a sure thing and the lights aren't always plus the starter current will ensure an unambiguous voltage reading between the battery post and other places if there is a bad connection. If the connection is so so the lights might not make such an obvious indication.

All the advice you gave is correct and useful. I tried to just add a little around the edges. If it comes to a competition T-shooting electrical faults I want you on my team!

Pat

 

[MikeD74T]

Loose connection at ground end on ground cable?????
Stuck starter????
Bad starter solenoid ??? Currently (last couple of weeks) my Case 580 displayed clicking when started with the key but will crank when poles of solenoid are jumpered. MikeD74T

 

[wushaw]

Check your cables at the battery to see if there is any blue or white powery stuff on them, this is battery acid which can get inside the cable and cause resistance and the higher the resistance the less voltage will travel through the cable.

 

[Laneman950]

OK, I took the battery and cable to Autozone for testing. The battery had lost 2 volts by the time I got there, so they couldn't test it. I bought a new positive cable just cause, and I bought a new battery since it lost the 2 volts. It fired right up better than ever when I put both in. I'll never know for sure if it was the battery or cable, but the cable looked fine and tested fine with an ohmmeter. Since the battery was the more expensive item I'll say that was the problem just so I feel better.

 

[Laneman950]

Awww now I'm really mad. Today it did the same thing again after a new battery and a new cable...click. I finally tried smacking on the starter and that seems to do the trick. So now it's starter trouble???? Dad gummmmitttt

 

[SPYDERLK]

Awww now I'm really mad. Today it did the same thing again after a new battery and a new cable...click. I finally tried smacking on the starter and that seems to do the trick. So now it's starter trouble???? Dad gummmmitttt

Starter trouble does not fit the original symptoms you reported. Your battery tho, at 12.2V quiescent, was iffy. Have you checked the charging system. Stand back and assess well. It will save you money.
larry

 

[MikeD74T]

Awww now I'm really mad. Today it did the same thing again after a new battery and a new cable...click. I finally tried smacking on the starter and that seems to do the trick. So now it's starter trouble???? Dad gummmmitttt

When smacking the starter provides the solution you need to disassemble the started & clean the brush holders. Not difficult. You might get away with removing the end cap & blowing them out with air. MikeD74T

 

[Laneman950]

I just read a little about starter repair. It said when tapping on the starter makes it work, the problem is usually the starter. It said one of the most common starter problems is the copper contacts need to be replaced. Looks easy, just have to find the parts. A rebuilt starter for this tractor is $400, so I will soon be adding starter rebuilder to my resume.

 

[Soundguy]

Look at it like this.. If your battery lost voltage in a short time.. it NEEDED to be replaced as well.

Often times.. a bad starter that drags can overload a battery and cause early demise.. so don't chalk the battery replacement up as not needed.

Same thing for the charging system. it's not unheard of for a bad alt to take out a battery.. or the other way around. In your case.. you may be lucky.. the starter may have lead to an early demise of the battery.. had you left it.. it may have overworked the alternator and that mighta gone south soon after. Figure that you cut your losses.

I'd check brushes.. and look for proud mice between the segments.. a hacksay blade can be used to undercut the mica just a hair.. and some emory paper can be used to smooth the commie.. etc.. The brushes will wear in soon enough.. though dressing the commie a bit sure helps matters...

Soundguy

 

[patrick_g]

I'd try brake/electric motor cleaner or similar in an aerosol can to be sure things are clean in there before I resorted to opening it up.

If that fails then if the contacts are solid copper (or copper alloy) and not just a heavy plating, you may be able to carefully "dress them" to remove/smooth pitting and roughness that prevents good contact. If when you try to dress them up with a fine grit you find the copper color goes away and leaves a silvery color behind then they need to be replaced for sure as they are not solid, just plated and the plating is history.

Pat