Starter issue?

[repete]

With everything off, disconnect the negative battery terminal and put a light bulb between the cable and the battery terminal. If it lights up then you are draining the battery when sitting. If there is no light to the bulb, place a volt meter between the negative cable (red lead) and the battery post (black lead). No voltage on the meter is good. If you have voltage, but no light, change the meter to the highest amp scale then work your way down to see the milliamp scale. That will tell you how much current drain is on the system.

 

[KennyV]

....I know it won't start since the Key Stop relay will not be engaged. ...

...

If you do as stated, it Will start. The key Stop relay momentarily pulses the fuel shut off. Tou do not need power anywhere except to the starter for Starting the engine... Without power to the key switch, You will have to manually pull the fuel shut off.

 

[reprosser]

Thanks KennyV - did not know that.:thumbsup:

OK - I have started from scratch with nothing connected, checked voltages, and connected one item at a time. At each point, I checked voltage, and manually turned over the starter by shorting the solenoid. I have installed fuses one at a time and validated that the voltage is steady. I have everything connected, all fuses, and I can start the tractor with the manual starter method. I am at the point where I have been before - everything seems OK, but if I turned the key to crank, it crashed. Before I try to crank with the key, I want to verify the starter-key system. I had to stop for tonight, but will continue tomorrow.

Since the main thing (only thing?) that happens when I turn the key to position 2 for cranking - is to provide power to the starter relay, I am investigating the relay. One thing I noticed with the relay removed from the plug is that there is 12v across the "coil" wires on the plug when the key is "on" (position 1). I did not expect to see 12v at the coil until the key is switched to crank (position 2).

Should there be 12v on the starter relay when the key switch is in position 1 (on, but not cranking) ?

There is also a diode assembly - I think it is called a flyback diode. I have no experience with this, but a little googling makes me think that even if the diode is shorted or open, it should not cause 12v on the coil.

I will be checking the key switch tomorrow - but I am pretty sure I originally checked for 12v on the position 2 tab, and it was OK.

 

[reprosser]

Tried the starter and it works fine. The culprit turned out to be a bad connection on the batter ground cable. Looked OK, and was tight, but when dis-assembled there was some rust. After cleaning and reassembly, the voltage stayed @ 12v during operation.

Thanks all!

 

[Xfaxman]

For future reference: Starter Voltage Drop - YouTube

 

[reprosser]

Good video - wish I had seen it before...

 

[Deano]

For future reference: Starter Voltage Drop - YouTube

Great video!! Now, will I be able to find it when I need it??!! No!!:laughing:

 

[gwdixon]

Tried the starter and it works fine. The culprit turned out to be a bad connection on the batter ground cable. Looked OK, and was tight, but when dis-assembled there was some rust. After cleaning and reassembly, the voltage stayed @ 12v during operation.

Thanks all!

This is a common problem and has many threads about it. I usually post but somehow missed this thread.

The best permanent fix is to route the battery ground to a bolt on the engine. A longer cable may have to be used to reach.

While at the auto parts store buying the longer cable it is wise to pick up a spray can of that red goop for stopping corrosion on battery cables.