SWB -
I am a Stihl man from way back and use them almost exclusively in my tree business. In now way would I describe them as "finnicky" - but having said that, they (and probably all chain saws, and anything with an engine for that matter) want to be started in a particular way.
If the carb is adjusted as it should be and the saw is "right", there is NO WAY any Stihl would have to be brought back to the dealer to be started. (Having said that, immediately after buying my first 066, their second-largest saw, I brought it back to my dealer because I couldn't get the da** thing started. Now if know how it wants to be started, and I have never had a problem since.
Stihls in general start great, run great and last great. The bigger they get, the more "particular" they are about how they want to be started. In general, assuming a "cold" saw, being started for the first time on a given day: set the choke to "full", depress the compression release button if so equipped, give it a pull or two until it "kicks" (the fuel has ignited in the cylinder but the saw is not yet running), then set the choke to the half-way position, push the compression release button back down (it just got pushed up by the explosion in the cylinder), give it one pull and it will start and run almost every time. As soon as it's running, squeeze the throttle trigger and the choke will come off automatically. Warm her up for a minute or two and ENJOY.
Where you start to run into problems is when you deviate from the above procedures, or if the saw gets "flooded" for whatever reason. This was my problem with my new 066. I flooded it, and kept trying to start it with the choke on, or took the choke off but didn't pull it enough times to "dry it out". That's the big key. If it hasn't started by going through the "normal" procedures, it's likely flooded. Take the choke off (put the "master control lever" in the "run" position, and pull, pull, pull, with your finger off the throttle. This will clear out the carb, and she'll most likely eventually give a little "kick" as the air-fuel ratio has gotten back down to a combustible level. At this point, set the choke half-way, give a couple more pulls, and she'll start right up.
After a while, you'll get a feel for how the saw wants to be started based on how warm it still is from prior use. If you restart it after just a few minutes of being fully warmed up (the time varies based on how cold it is out), no choke is usually necessary. I just set the lever to "run" and drop-start it with the throttle trigger depressed and depending on how warm it is it will usually start with one pull, vroom. If it's cooled off a little, half-choke with a drop-start will usually produce a "kick", then set the lever to "run", give it one more pull with the trigger depressed, and vroom. Choke comes off, go to work. If the saw has cooled off considerably since the last use, the half-choke won't produce a "kick" after one or two pulls. Stop pulling, set the choke to "full", pull until you get a kick, set it to "half-choke", and vroom.
Just remember that if the saw is equipped with a compression release, push the button back down after every "kick" that doesn't result in a running saw.
You didn't say what Stihl you're getting, but all of them up to about the 360 start REALLY easily and are more forgiving about how you start them, within reason. From the 460 up, they start like a Harley. Don't flood 'em, and if you do, pull pull pull until you clear them.
I love Stihls, but Huskies are great too, it's a matter of preference. I see Stihls as Mercedes, and Huskies as Saabs. Both fine automobiles, but there's something about a Mercedes. Huskies, like Saabs, have certain refinements that you won't find on a Stihl or a Mercedes. Huskies have a very advanced air filtration system called "Air Injection", which subjects the incoming air to a cyclone effect that drastically reduces the amount of dust that the filter has to deal with. very nice. Huskies are also (IMHO) less prone to "pulping up" - i.e. having the chain get jammed with chips/shavings, especially when doing stump cuts or cutting with the grain. Cutting with the grain produces long, excelsior-like fibers that seem to jam a Stihl before they'll jam a Husky. But it's a minor issue, and I put up with it as I'd put up with diesel "clatter" on a Mercedes 300-D. I still like Stihls for their rugged, no-nonsense German engineering.
Lastly, speaking of compression releases: they are found mostly on the "Pro" models - 260, 360, 460, 660. A compression release valve is a GREAT thing to have on a saw, and a "Pro" model is a GREAT saw to own, and it doesn't mean that you have to be a "pro" to warrant buying and owning one. They require the same exact skill levels to operate as a "homeowner" model. What makes a Stihl a "pro" model is generally the inclusion of a compression release valve, but more importantly, lighter and more long-lasting engine components. They cost a little more up front, but will last MUCH longer before they wear out, and you will have enjoyed a lighter saw with a compression release all that time.
To give you an idea about Stihl longevity, I had an 028 Super that i bought in 1986 and finally wore out (crank seals) after about 10-11 years of professional use, and that's not even technically a "pro" model. The "pro" models are not too much more expensive than the others, and I think they're well worth it. The 260 is a great size for casual firewood use and general use, and wants a 16" bar; if you're more serious about firewood and felling, the 360 is a GREAT saw with some serious "oomph" to it and wants an 18" bar; the 460 is commonly used by loggers who do hand-cutting and don't want to lug around a 660, and wants a 20" bar; and the 660 is my sentimental favorite and is a beast with an attitude. I run a 20" bar on it 70% of the time, a 28" bar 25% of the time, and a 42" bar 5% of the time.
It's best to use a "semi-skip" chain with a bar longer than say 24". In other words, instead of cutter-driver-cutter-driver as on a regular ("full comp", which I think means it has a "full complement" of cutters), a semi-skip goes cutter-driver-driver-cutter-driver-driver, decreasing the load on the engine while still cutting as well, or better than the full-comp. Fewer cutters to sharpen too, which is VERY nice.
Lastly, I mentioned "drop starting". This is when you hold the saw in your right hand (you lefties out there are on your own, as usual), hold the pull handle in your left hand, and simultaneously pull with your left hand as you "drop" the saw with your right hand. The absolute safest way to start the saw is flat on the ground with your left foot stuck into the handle, but I use this method only on the 046 and 066, and even then, usually only when they are "cold". After they've "kicked", I usually drop start them because you can squeeze the throttle as you're pulling, which usually makes for easier starting. IF you do the drop start method, MAKE SURE you have engaged the chain brake first by pushing the guard forward. This will keep you from cutting your leg off, and having to sue me.
Lastly lastly, I have a method of sharpening chains using two simple gizmos that cost 6 bucks and 8 bucks each, and will make your chain cut better, yes BETTER than a brand-new chain. (It's all about the side angles and rakers). My fingers are about to fall off, but if anyone is interested, I'd be happy to share the info it took my about 10 years to figure out. Your saw will cut better than half to three-quarters of the PROs out there, never mind the homeowners. It is incredibly simple and VERY satisfying. PLEASE don't waste your time and money having your chains sharpened on a grinder down at the power equipment place. Some of those guys don't even know what a raker is, much less how to properly set one. And if they do, they do it on the same grinding machine, which does NOT set them at the correct angle. Also, a chain that has been sharpened on a grinder usually gets slightly hardened in the process, making it much more difficult to hand-sharpen with a file.
Really lastly, I've always wanted to recommend full-chisel saw chain that has no anti-kickback provisions whatsoever since they are much easier to sharpen and generally cut better, and that kickback, while very real, is not to be feared but rather respected and anticipated, but I can't, because then someone might sue me.
Hope this helps,
John D.
