Starting issues (no power) on 1974 John Deere 110

[Fuddy1952]

On starter switch you should have 12v on B (red/white wire) all the time. You should have 12v on S (purple/yellow wire) in start position. While in start position 12v goes through neutral safety AND pto switches to starter solenoid (purple wire).
That's all there is to it.
Follow along, test light or meter. Wherever you're missing power is problem, could be corrosion, bad connector, bad (open) wire.

 

[dwoolley]

Thanks everyone. It has got to be the pto switch which I ordered a couple days ago. I jumped from the solenoid to the ignition switch like Fuddy1952. I have power but it still will not start. At least this is an area I am more familiar with. Probably needs some carb work.

 

[dwoolley]

I found the problem. No spark. Breaker points look new but I forgot to check the gap like an idiot. The secondary winding coil ohms are within spec. I am getting the new rectifier regulator in the mail today. Maybe because that is missing I am not getting a spark.

 

[Fuddy1952]

All along I thought it wasn't cranking over.
Ignition is a separate circuit.
The maunual you can download...

John Deere Service Manual 110 Lawn and Garden Tractor - WFMFiles.com

PDFWFMFiles.com › download › manuals

 

[dwoolley]

You were right. It wasn稚 cranking and then I did the jump from the ignition switch to the solenoid you suggested and it finally started to crank over. I値l take a look at the manual. Thanks!

 

[Fuddy1952]

I would consider one of these electronic conversions you can order, Amazon,eBay, small engine place. $15 or so. I've used them on a couple small motors.
From what I've read yours is last year for 110. Is it 10hp? Kohler?

 

[dwoolley]

I would consider one of these electronic conversions you can order, Amazon,eBay, small engine place. $15 or so. I've used them on a couple small motors.
From what I've read yours is last year for 110. Is it 10hp? Kohler?View attachment 604242

Yes, it's a 10 HP. I looked up the serial number to see if the guy I bought it from was correct on the year and I believe this is actually a 1972 not a '74. Also, I got the spark issue fixed. The condenser wasn't holding a charge so I replaced it and bam it sparked right up. My next issue is that it sounds like it's not getting gas. I suspect it to be the fuel pump. The guy who used to own this put on a new carb which looks like it might be an aftermarket carb. He gave me the OEM one so I might rebuild it and see if that's any better. First, I'd like to see if the fuel pump is my issue. Any way to test that? I started to open it and gas started to seep out so I know it's getting gas.

 

[radios1]

Yes, it's a 10 HP. I looked up the serial number to see if the guy I bought it from was correct on the year and I believe this is actually a 1972 not a '74. Also, I got the spark issue fixed. The condenser wasn't holding a charge so I replaced it and bam it sparked right up. My next issue is that it sounds like it's not getting gas. I suspect it to be the fuel pump. The guy who used to own this put on a new carb which looks like it might be an aftermarket carb. He gave me the OEM one so I might rebuild it and see if that's any better. First, I'd like to see if the fuel pump is my issue. Any way to test that? I started to open it and gas started to seep out so I know it's getting gas.

if the fuel bowl has gas in it, the fuel pump is working..

 

[dwoolley]

if the fuel bowl has gas in it, the fuel pump is working..

So the pump was my issue. The fuel bowl is now getting gas, but it still won't start. I'm thinking it might be the compression. I just tested it and its only at 35. Is that normal?

Edit: I found the spec. It should be between 100-120 PSI. Anyway I'm testing it wrong and don't have to figure out my compression issue? I've got the carb off for cleaning and am jumping from solenoid to ignition switch because I'm still waiting on the PTO neutral switch from John Deere. I have a Pittsburg compression tester and put it into the spark plug hole and crank the engine for about 2 seconds which is when the reader on the compression gauge stops. The manual says to test compression at 1000 rpm. Is there a way to find out what rpm I'm cranking at?
I'll run the other tests the manual suggests to find out exactly what's wrong, but I want to make sure the compression test is accurate first.

 

[radios1]

put a tablespoon of oil in the cylinder and check the compression again..