Buying Advice Starting over

   / Starting over
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I knew I wanted FEL for snow but figured I would find a bunch of other uses once I had one.
 
   / Starting over #12  
That's interesting that you can mow so much faster with "only" a 52'' deck compared to your tractor. That size would work a lot better in my yard than the 60''+ I was thinking I would need get to make up any ground on the speed of a modern tractor/bush hog.
I can go as fast or faster on my ZTR (10mph) as I can mow with the tractor because the ground is so rough, the tractor will beat you to death. Due to lots of trees, I have to circle around a lot to get even close to mowing all the weeds which is not needed with the ztr and I think I have less overlap using the ztr mower. I get a cleaner cut, lower cut and same or better mowing time.
 
   / Starting over #13  
I am surprised that you are being told to skip the loader. I strongly disagree. I use a loader for driveway maintenance, moving bark dust, cleaning up after weeding, lifting anything heavy I get in the bucket or get a chain on. My wife has even lifted me up to clean gutters (single story house). You get more creative the more you use it. Once in a while in tight quarters around trees it might get in the way a little if you are mowing with it. And don't forget it helps a lot with snow. If you are buying a late model CUT they are quick attach so take about 5 minutes to take off and 10 minutes to put back on if you don't do it often. Faster if you do it all the time. To me you loose at least 25% of the usability of the tractor without the loader.

Don't forget that it can push you out of a "stuck in the mud" situation also, especially with R4 tires. When I bought my first tractor with FEL, I really didn't think I would be using it much, however, I never take it off either of my tractors now. They are so handy to have and you never know when you may need to lift something.
I have also used mine to push steel T post into the ground when the ground is not too hard. It takes a little finesse to know when it is driving into the ground and when it stops due to a rock or other obstruction. You can buckle one (T POST) in the blink of an eye if you aren't careful.
 
   / Starting over #14  
I upgraded 3 years ago from a 26HP open station to a 36HP HST cab. Mainly for the extra weight (3800 vs 5600), loader lifting capacity and cab w heat & A/C. I have a PA QA plow for the loader to plow snow with and there is a 72" mid mount mower option or you can use a rear 3 pt. brush / finish mower. I have 2 properties but lawns are small and can be done with a push mower.

I second asking the wife what you can justify.
 
   / Starting over #15  
I really didn't think I would be using it much, however, I never take it off either of my tractors now. They are so handy to have and you never know when you may need to lift something.

My next door neighbor purchased a Kubota with a loader, and mower.
He insisted on mowing with the loader on,, then complained about how long it took to mow.

When he passed, his SIL started mowing the same 3.5 acres, with the same Kubota.
He did drop the loader,,, and he could mow the same grass in half the time.

That loader can really slow you down,, for many tasks.
 
   / Starting over #16  
Sorry to hear about how Mother Nature slammed you. Find a good local welder from your farmer pals and have your tractors repaired. If you have 2 tractors, for sure one should have a loader. I have a 7' 3 point finish mower that I couldn't live without, but drool over the ZTRs for close mowing around stuff. Hopefully soon. Shop around, get advise, but trust yourself as you know what works for you.
 
   / Starting over
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Outside of the manicured yard just how much faster would a zero turn be than a modern CUT with either the same size MMM or my 5 ft existing brush hog? Would the zero turn or the MMM be more built for cutting pasture type grass? I wouldn't be cutting grass when it's to tall. If I let it go or for first cut I still plan on brush hog. Also I really don't have much for obstacles (I usually push mow around them anyway) and majority is wide open. I am more concerned about hills. But I wouldn't be mowing anything I didn't already mow with my 8N/Cub Cadet rider.
 
   / Starting over #18  
I don't understand the notion that a zero-turn is no good on hills. I couldn't disagree more. Compared to a tractor on a hill (with it's higher center of gravity), they are immensely better. In most instances, they are much faster as well. We have 5 acres, too; 2-1/2 is mowed lawn, and 2-1/2 is pasture. We have a smaller zero-turn and a rider for the lawn, and we have the tractor for the pasture ... as well as other tractor/loader work.

I don't think the size of your property should determine whether or not you need a tractor, so much as maybe it will help determine the size of the one you need. Honestly, though, unless you are intent on using this as an opportunity to buy a new tractor (and there's nothing wrong with that), I'd just fix the two classics you have. You seem attached to them.
 
   / Starting over
  • Thread Starter
#19  
I think I will get a CUT someday if nothing else so I can retire my old tractors and have them restored. So it's just a matter of now or latter...I think. So I can't decide if I should buy a big zero turn now and get by with what I have unit I can really afford a new CUT or buy a regular rider now (never really wished I had a zero turn just for my yard) and a new (or used) CUT. Financing on the new CUT make it pretty tempting but it's still another payment...
 
   / Starting over #20  
If you want an all in one tractor that is good for pretty much everything for 5 acres you could consider a Steiner/Ventrac. Great on hills, good on lawn. handy in tight quarters. Loader available blades and blowers available. Only problem is the price.
 

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