starting problems

lance · Dec 17, 2003

I ran my Iseki 1610 out of gas today and now it will not start even though I placed fuel back in. Does anyone have any tips to get it started.

Thank you

pruntyc · Dec 17, 2003

I don't know much about Iseki tractors. but I am pretty sure its not gas, but a diesel engine. And you have to get all the air out of the system to start one of them. I have a yanmar, and on it you have to bleed it at the fuel filter, tank side first then pump side next. Then at the pump, you just open the bleeders till there is not air all diesel. Iseki may be different, but it would work the same. All air out or it will not start at all. On most diesels you don't have to bleed the injectors, but some will tell you that you have to. If you get all the air out from the tank to the pump, that is all you need to do.

5030 · Dec 17, 2003

lance:

A can of either and a charged battery might work.

yonahforge · Dec 17, 2003

Dick's advice works with Isekis too - start at the line from the tank to the fuel filter, to the pump, to the injectors, opening the fittings (one at a time) & getting fuel to flow until there is no air bubbles. A good charge on the battery is also needed, as 5030 mentioned, as you will use the starter a good bit. You'll also end up with a small mess with the diesel fuel that you bleed out. A small flexible cup helps.

Once you've let it run out of fuel once, you find that you fill the tank more often (but I wouldn't know anything about that) /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

pruntyc · Dec 17, 2003

I would leave that can of ether, alone. These diesels have very high compression, and they can blow up, with ether. Might ruin the motor, it might even ruin you. Just get the air out of it and it will start and run fine. But ether, gas or any other suppose to be short cut, just wouldn't get it started, as long as it has air in the lines. Like the man said, now that you have let yourself run out of fuel once, you probably won't let it happen again, at least for a long time. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Tractor_Tim · Dec 18, 2003

Lance, leave the ether alone it is a sure way to cause more problems and also can reduce the life expectancy of your engine. You have to bleed the air out of the system, your tractor should start. If you are not sure check with a local dealership and they may be able to show you what to look for on a tractor so you can bleed the air out. Not all tractors are the same as to how they bleed air out of the fuel system but the principle is the same. Good luck and this is a lesson that helps us to remember not to ever run out of fuel again... ya right.... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

lens12 · Dec 19, 2003

Jeff's TS2205 is almost identical to your tractor follow his advice. Only use ether in engines that are designed for its use. i had an employee spray ether in to the intake instead of using the ether attachment. Broke the rings in 2 cylinders.

5030 · Dec 20, 2003

Dick:

Maybe I should have clarified that a little more.....

Engines that have pre-heaters like glow bar plugs can't have either introduced into the intake air because they will self-destruct.

To use either on that type of engine, you'd have to dis-connect the glow plug feed.

Actually, a good either engine start aid will have an upper cylinder lubricant in it. You don't use much, just a little squirt.

Another really good way to start a diesel in cold weather is to take a shop towel, soak it in gasoline, wring it out and place it over the air intake. When you crank the engine, the intake air will pull a little gasoline vapor in and that will fire the engine too. You have to be careful that the rag doesn't get sucked into the intake though. Diesels ingest a lot of air, all the time.

I use to start my old 6.3 IH in my Ford that way, all the time. Either that method or the hair dryer method.

DavesTractor · Dec 20, 2003

I know some engines tolerate and in fact are designed for ether as a starting aid, but Yanmars are not. I would never ever use ether to start a Yanmar.

I've replaced a couple of bent rods recently on a commercial mower with a Yanmar 4 cylinder in it. The guy ran it out of fuel, didn't know how to bleed it and repeatedly tried to start it with starting fluid. It bent two rods. $155 each for the rods, plus new rings and rod bearings of course, and a gasket set, plus labor. Figure that up, and resist the temptation.

On my Dad's International 674, it comes with a button to squirt some ether in for cold starting. Obviously it is fine to use ether on that rig.

Bird · Dec 20, 2003

For some reason or other, it seems to me that Yanmars are very rare in my part of the country; don't think I've ever seen more than 2 or 3 of them. And one of them, about a year ago, was at my Kubota dealer. It was a trade-in that they had for sale at the time. The salesman told me they took it in trade, but had to rebuild the engine because the owner had used ether to start it. I think he said they only had to replace one piston and rod, along with a few other parts. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Tractor_Tim · Dec 21, 2003

Over the years I have had discussions with several diesel mechanics of different sizes and types of engines. They have all stated that if you do not have to, do not use ether! Yes some engines are even equipped with ether starting aids (remember these engine manufactureres are in the parts business too) but do not use them unless there is no other alternative.

Junkman · Dec 22, 2003

Lance....... first things first........ did you mean "gas" as in gasoline? If so, then I will assume that you in fact have a gasoline engine. If it was a typo, then follow the information about bleeding the lines as previously posted. Make sure that you only use diesel fuel. If you inadvertently put gasoline into the fuel tank, then you will have to drain it out and refill with the proper fuel.
I noticed from your profile that you live in Wisconsin and I know from experience that Wisconsin is very cold this time of the year. I would suggest that you install the proper weight of engine oil if you haven't done this previously. Also, a cold diesel or gasoline engine is very difficult to start under the best fuel conditions. I would suggest that you install an engine block heater if you don't already have one. Once you have the proper fuels installed, the proper oil weight, and a warm engine block with a strong battery turning the starter, it will run again. In the future, try to keep the fuel tank filled at the beginning of the day and not to run out of fuel.......

Gary_Bates · Dec 22, 2003

This happened to me twice in the summer. Both times, I was able to restart by sequentially loosening the fuel lines at the injector, and cranking the engine until fuel was forced out, then retightening the connector. It sure makes you pay more attention to the fuel level in the tank.

pruntyc · Dec 22, 2003

You may have done it that way Gary. But we told him the way it is suppose to be done. There is a right way of doing things and a wrong way. The wrong way may work or it may not always work. But the right way will always work.

Tractor_Tim · Dec 23, 2003

Gary, what I think that Dick is trying ot say is that in earlier posts that it was discussed how to bleed air from the system as per a method in a manual. What you do is basically crack a line or injector which is something an expierenced mechanic might do looking for a short cut. But the dangers such as not being able to reseal the line or nut of what ever you cracked or when you turn the machine over and forcing fuel out of a "cracked" line it could come out at such intense pressure that the diesel fuel could penetrate your skin or a bystanders skin and this is very dangerous as your body will have a very difficult time expelling diesel fuel out of your blood system. Thus "poisoning" your body. ALWAYS BE CAREFUL!

gbirky · Dec 23, 2003

I'm not familiar with Iseki's, but I have 3 Yanmars, all of which I have had to start from a dry tank. Two for engine work, and all three from running the tank dry. They were all very easy to re-start after proper use of the bleed screws. In no case did I have to crack open an injection line.

The last time, I was plowing snow with my YM1110D while my 5yr old son was playing in the snow nearby. He called to me, so I idled the tractor back and walked over to him. Before I got back to the tractor, it had run dry and quit. I walked back to the garage, got the 5gal can with the last gallon of diesel I had and a philips head screwdriver. I poured the diesel in, bled the three bleeders in order, turned the key and it fired right up. It was so easy that I don't really worry too much about running out of fuel.

larso1 · Dec 23, 2003

There are at least two locations I know of where there are bleed screws on your Iseki model. There are two bleed screws located next to each other on top the fuel filter holder. The other is on the side of the injection pump. It is a hex head screw with a slot for a flat blade screw driver, and is located just below the fuel supply pipe connection that serves the rear fuel injector. There may be another bleed somewhere I don't know of, but open those three for sure. Hope this helps.

Bill in CO

pruntyc · Dec 23, 2003

All you are doing is repeating what has already been said. And it was gone over very well. So what is your post suppose to mean. Like you didn't read the rest of what we had already said????????????????? /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

larso1 · Dec 24, 2003

Jeez Dick, lighten up. I was just trying to be helpful. I have a TS1610F and I was just giving some info about the specific locations of the bleed screws, especially the one on the side of the fuel pump.

Bill in CO

DennisArrow · Dec 27, 2003

Gee Dick...........seems that Bill's response on the EXACT fix for the situation was the most right on of all that I read........for a newbie like me to pull the sidecovers and see all of the screws and bolts that could possibly be loosened and thereby inflicting more problems, very specific information submitted by Bill is totally appreciated...........good advice by all except the ether........little tricks, generalities, and specific brand information for the repair specifications are what this is all about.......THANKS Bill...........Dennis