Starting the addition

   / Starting the addition #1  

gsganzer

Elite Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2003
Messages
3,212
Location
Denton, TX
Tractor
L3800 w/FEL and BH77, BX 2200 w/FEL and MMM
Well, it's been quite a month. I've been on the road for all but 4 days since before Thanksgiving. I've actually been in Junkman's territory in CT the whole time.

To give y'all some insight into the project. We're adding a 20 x 30 addition off the back of the house. It'll mainly be a living and dining room. The new room will be going where our existing carport, storage and laundry room/breezeway are. So they'll need to be demolished. A new 3 carport will be added to the opposite end of the house. They're also doing some cosmetic stuff to the front of the house.

That's the easy part, as it's been hired out to an excellent contractor. After the room's completed, I'll be gutting a sizeable part of the house interior. I'll be building a new kitchen, master bath and pantry/utility room. That's the part I'll be doing. The wife's given me 4 months to complete the interior once I start. After 4 months, she's calling in someone to finish it if I haven't.

In the 4 days I've been home, I started getting things ready for our addition. Step number one, was to move the water heater and washer/dryer to a temporary location. They were in a small laundry room at the end of the breezeway. This turned out to be a much more complicated task then first anticipated. I have a 37 year old house, need I say more. On pulling the floor up to move some plumbing, I discovered that the sill plate and rim joist are in pretty poor shape. They've been added to the list of things to fix when I gut the interior. Also, the plumber used 3/4" flexible copper tubing. This is the tubing that's often used for refrigeration and is sized slightly differently then 3/4" ridgid copper pipe. To save yourself a whole lot of hassle, a 3/4" street-el will make the conversion (learn from my turmoil).

I also found that the idiot ran black iron pipe from the well and connected to the copper pipe with a plain ol' fitting. The electrolysis caused significant corrosion and a small leak. For those who aren't familiar with it, there's a special fitting called a 'Dielectric Coupling" that's required to prevent this. To make a long story short, the plumbing under the house is a mess. I've added it to my list of things to completely replace when I gut the inside of the house.

Step two was demolishing the carport, storage and breezeway/laundry room. This first photo is of the "Wrecking Crew". They were friends and family that were specifically chosen for their ability to destroy things. We tore it all down in 1 day.
 

Attachments

  • 554553-121804r wrecking crew.JPG
    554553-121804r wrecking crew.JPG
    56.1 KB · Views: 329
   / Starting the addition
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Here's the carport down and everything nearly cleaned up. The contractor will jackhammer all of the slabs up and create a new pad for a cable-lok slab. That's me in the photo.
 

Attachments

  • 554558-121804r demolition complete.JPG
    554558-121804r demolition complete.JPG
    39.2 KB · Views: 264
   / Starting the addition #3  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Here's the carport down and everything nearly cleaned up. )</font>

Wow! When that happens in Florida, they blame it on hurricanes. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

...sorry, bad joke. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Good luck with your addition. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
   / Starting the addition #4  
<font color="blue"> ....and create a new pad for a cable-lok slab. </font>

What exactly is a cable-lok slab?? G
 
   / Starting the addition
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I think cable-lok is actually a trade name for a "post tension" slab. They put a series of cables in a grid pattern throughout the slab from side to side before they pour. After the slab has cured, the cables are pulled extremely tight. It prevents the slab from pulling apart when it cracks. They're using it in place of rebar on a lot of projects these days.
 
   / Starting the addition #6  
Do they use the “cable-lok” system in your area because of the Texas clay that expands and contracts so much? I have never seen it used in a residential setting here.

MarkV
 
   / Starting the addition #7  
Thanks. I wonder if it is a new and upcoming way of doing it. I'll have to ask my mason about it. G
 
   / Starting the addition #8  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Thanks. I wonder if it is a new and upcoming way of doing it. I'll have to ask my mason about it. G )</font>

It has been used in Texas for quite a few years. The soil in many areas of Texas is prone to shift a lot when it dries out and the post tension cables add rigidity to the slab. Seems to be pretty effective.

I seem to recall seeing it advertised 15 years ago by builders in Dallas so it has had plenty of time to prove itself.

Bill Tolle
 
   / Starting the addition #9  
I don't envy you. We started last fall on our addition. The upstairs and outside are mostly done. I still have the basement to finish.
 
   / Starting the addition
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Cowboydoc,
The things that get you are all the unforseen problems. The rotted sill and rim joist will take some significant time to replace. The plumbing isn't too big of a deal to fix. I'll also be rewiring a significant portion of the house. I had the electricians come out to move the main panel and upgrade it to 200 Amp. I heard them saying to each other "I've never seen this type of wire before". It's plain old two conductor with no ground.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2016 Freightliner Tandem Bucket Truck, VIN # 1FVHCYCYXGHHA5025 (A51572)
2016 Freightliner...
2022 Chevrolet Tahoe FL SUV (A51694)
2022 Chevrolet...
NEW Wolverine Skid Steer Vibratory Roller (A53002)
NEW Wolverine Skid...
2009 IC Corporation PB105 Passenger Bus (A51692)
2009 IC...
2017 E-Z Beever M12R Towable Brush Chipper (A50322)
2017 E-Z Beever...
2010 Ford Edge SE SUV (A51694)
2010 Ford Edge SE...
 
Top