steep property,what to use

   / steep property,what to use #11  
Grettings from the ozarks.
I have the same problem.

The ozarks are not very tall, but man they can be steep in places.

Is the slope compound? If not you can just drive up and down it. This works pretty well since a tractor is safe up and down 20 degrees.
But if its compound, slopes in two directions, it's hard to maintain that up and down angle, partciluarly if you need to turn around at one end.
In some cases you can back up and then drive down, repeat process.

If you do this get a 4wd and get a loader. The 4wd will save you. One day when I was on a steep hill that I was cutting, the rear tires started spinning. Thought I was stuck for sure and worried I would start slipping further down. Looked down and realized the front wheels where not spinning /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif. I forget it was not in 4wd. Dropped it in 4wd and hit the diff. lock and she backed right out no problem.
The loader is your emergency brake. Sounds funny and certainly not what you want to do on a regular basis, but it has saved me on occasion.
Leave the bucket it on and if you get in trouble just drop it. Acts like an anchor. Also useful for finding rocks, ahead of the mower.

If you choose to let it grow wild, keep in mind that the natural state is probably an oak/hickory forrest and it will go back to that in time. The problem is in the short run you will end up with 10 foot briars and persimmon trees.

four legged mowers are another option, but cows only eat the good stuff and if you have briars they will avoid those areas and the briars will spread.
Goats are better, but the fences are alot more trouble.

The 45 degree slope mower is probably the ideal solution plus may be some four legged helpers, until you see the price on that mower! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Cost as much as a ultility tractor and its not setup to run a bailer or do the common tasks a farmer needs.

Fred
 
   / steep property,what to use #12  
Without a doubt check-out Power-Trac. I had one for 7 years mowing hills with slopes up about 25 degrees, never worried about it tippin' over.
My main worry is when I'd get into wet and slippery conditions and my mowers might slide a little, best not to mow on slopes after rain or a heavy dew.
Yes you do have to maintain it yourself. However I found that they always had the parts I needed and shipped them quickly. I also found that it is fairly simple to maintain.
Have fun and good luck pickin' something out.

Eric P.
 
   / steep property,what to use #13  
To OkieG & the forum - just started browsing about 3 weeks ago. My JD 4710 was overheating and I tried to find a solution. Couldn't find one so cable-tied the radiator hose to the air intake hose to get it away from the muffler. Grew up on a farm near Lawton, OK raising cattle but baling hay in the summer on Ft. Sill. Have 20 acres in Logan Co. that keeps me busy. Active in Boy Scouts, though my sons are grown and out of the troop. My wife and I know that there are still kids that need help and an adult role model. I am an anesthesiologist (gaspasser) and practice in OKC.

I was actually browsing the internet trying to find a source for an H&H toothbar when I went to the Deweze site - we used to have a Deweze bale wagon - and saw the mower. I finally broke down and emailed Henro and he was very informative on where to find H&H Sales.

Due to my schedule, I won't be on every day but will try to check the discussions every 2-3 days.

Thanks for all the info.
 
   / steep property,what to use #14  
OK - I posted this in Lawn & Garden and have gotten no responses.

Anyone have any experience with a Swisher Postmaster trimmer? It pulls behind an ATV or riding lawnmower and is a self-contained string trimmer.

I found one negative rating on the internet somewhere. It looks neat - like it would do the job to trim the fence rows.

Northern Tool Swisher Postmaster
 
   / steep property,what to use #15  
Arkydog,

I've seen a variety of industrial as well as "homemade" solutions for vehicles on slopes.

Here are some, if you can picture what I'm describing.

1. Set rear wheels extra wide

2. Similar to #1, but use an extra wheel hub between axle and wheel (2 hubs on one side, one or both with tires). Sort of like "duallies" on one side.

3. Extended axle on one side. This one is tricky due to balancing and reinforcement. The one I saw used an axle from a larger tractor (longer) on one side. Not sure how it was connected.

4. Using "outrigger" with a wheel on the end. This could be hydraulic to adjust for position. Bracing would be important.


If you must mow across a slope, it is easier to always mow from one side (leaning either left or right) and modifying only one side.

What else do you (in a perfect world) want to do with the tractor? Most of the above would still allow you to do other things with the tractor.

The specialized unit you posted a link to is very interesting, but seems more for a single purpose, like a commercial situation. It also looks like it may slide on an uneven surface, something to watch out for.

Pretty cool, but chances are good that once you get a tractor, you'll find all kinds of new uses for it.

Again, it depends upon how you want to use it and which option you are most comfortable with. Since you are new to tractors, you may not feel comfortable making your own modifications.

If not, don't do it. Most important thing here, is don't get hurt. A roll can and does kill, so be sure.

Good luck, and let us know how you decide to go.

-JC

PS- Welcome to TBN!
 

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