stick welding with fixed lens

   / stick welding with fixed lens #21  
Having 'played' with a few auto darkening helmets I did discover that they generally rely on a 3 volt lithium cell to operate.
Stands to reason that a low or dead cell will give poor performance.

Having learned that tidbit of info I always hang my helmet near the window so as to keep the cell fully charged.
Naturally if you do a lot of welding the ark keeps it fully charged.

And, yes, welding under a bright light source helps a lot.



I have a Miller helmet and the same coin battery has been in it for 7~8 years and never an issue.
My helmet does have a solar cell so the UV welding light likely charges something up.
 
   / stick welding with fixed lens #22  
I have a Miller helmet and the same coin battery has been in it for 7~8 years and never an issue.
My helmet does have a solar cell so the UV welding light likely charges something up.
As I understand it, the coin battery is for the first quarter second or so before the solar cell finishes energizing, or when doing something like TIG that does not radiate as much light as stick or mig.
As such, if the coin battery is dead it will take a little bit longer for the window to darken versus the same helmet with a good coin battery in it.

Aaron Z
 
   / stick welding with fixed lens #23  
I use to do a fair amount of stick welding. I rarely stick weld but TIG weld most jobs now. Having a good helmet and gloves is a must have.

Miller is not inexpensive but I always questioned the eye safety factor of the $200 helmet to the Harbor Freight or $40 ones.
Helmets are cheaper and easier to replace than your eyes.
 
   / stick welding with fixed lens #24  
As I understand it, the coin battery is for the first quarter second or so before the solar cell finishes energizing, or when doing something like TIG that does not radiate as much light as stick or mig.
As such, if the coin battery is dead it will take a little bit longer for the window to darken versus the same helmet with a good coin battery in it.

Aaron Z

Good to know!
 
   / stick welding with fixed lens #25  
I use to do a fair amount of stick welding. I rarely stick weld but TIG weld most jobs now. Having a good helmet and gloves is a must have.

Miller is not inexpensive but I always questioned the eye safety factor of the $200 helmet to the Harbor Freight or $40 ones.
Helmets are cheaper and easier to replace than your eyes.
Per Miller, "any helmet that meets ANSI Z87.1 - 2003 (also referred to as ANSI Z87+) will provide 100% ultraviolet and infrared filtering regardless of shade setting and meet advertised switching speeds and darkness shades in temperatures as low as 23° F and high as 131° F."
Here are their recommendations for shade:
609022d1560483913-stick-welding-fixed-lens-helmetchartjpg-jpg

Source: Selecting the Right Welding Helmet For You | MillerWelds

Aaron Z
 

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   / stick welding with fixed lens #26  
I don't know who copies who or who actually fabricates the electronics in the auto helmets.
At one time I had a close look at one of the high price helmets and they looked suspiciously like my $40.00 one.

I am suspecting that many if not all share the same electronic circuits but with fancier and or more rugged molded helmet. (fancy paint jobs)

About the only thing I don't like about my helmet is that it always pinches my right ear when I pull it down.
 
   / stick welding with fixed lens #27  
I still use the "Tiger hood" I bought when I left the shop over 20 years ago. I had used it for 14 years when i left for wire feed and tig welding. Self darkening helmets were just starting to take off then and some of the other welders were using them but the were pricey back then. What works good for me is to hold both arms in tight to my body (reduces wobble considerably) and get the rod close to the work then nod and strike the arc. This technique helps make a nicer bead since it offers better control over the rod and arc.
 
   / stick welding with fixed lens #28  
Per Miller, "any helmet that meets ANSI Z87.1 - 2003 (also referred to as ANSI Z87+) will provide 100% ultraviolet and infrared filtering regardless of shade setting and meet advertised switching speeds and darkness shades in temperatures as low as 23° F and high as 131° F."
Here are their recommendations for shade:
609022d1560483913-stick-welding-fixed-lens-helmetchartjpg-jpg

Source: Selecting the Right Welding Helmet For You | MillerWelds

Aaron Z
I dont agree with that Miller chart, I think it is always at least one shade too dark.I welded professionally for many years (mostly TIG and SMAW but some MIG and Subarc) and never used anything darker than a #10 welding lens except when arc Gouging at 300-400 amps would require a #12.
The best constant shade welding lens ever was an American Optical super blue gold lens. They have been out of production for about 30 years but can still be found but are rare and very expensive ($200+.) The blue filter cut out all the yellow arc color and was really easy on the eyes. I didn't start using the auto-dark until I was a welding instructor and it was great for that.
I use a HF auto dark now but dont do more that an hour welding at any one time so I can say how well they would work for a 8-10 hour duration. My AO super blue #10 would not tire the eyes even after 10 hours of welding almost constantly.
 
   / stick welding with fixed lens #29  
I have used a couple $30 helmets,, but, they are blurry compared to this helmet,,,


I was Leary of spending the $$$,, but, now that I have the Jackson helmet,, I find it was well worth the purchase price.
I have a couple of the HF helmets and not one of them is blurry. The cause for blurry vision is most likely in the clear lens that you were using. The clear lens was likely defective or improperly installed in the helmet. Sometimes (a few decades ago) I would get a bad clear lens and would get double vision. Changing the lens out would cure the problem. Also never use more than two clear lens, one in front and one behind the dark lens. I used to get one CR39 plastic lens for the front but use a glass lens behind the dark lens. That would cure the double vision every time and it would trap any bouncing buckshot that might get behind the hood. The hot metal would stick instantly to the glass lens so it wouldn't bounce back onto your face or eyes.
 
   / stick welding with fixed lens #30  
Where I weld they stock inexpensive helmets some of which are HF which my eyes had a very hard time welding with. Yes I cleaned the lenses and adjusted the shade to its lowest setting. I finally got myself a $50 helmet on Amazoon and the difference was day and night improvement in visibility. Both while welding or grinding I could actually see again. This helmet was a gross improvement and it didn't even cost all that much.

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