Tire Selection Sticker proof tires?

[bcp]

Probably these:

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Tribulus terrestris - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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Tribulus terrestris - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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Tribulus terrestris - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[PJSprog]

Oh, man ... yeah, those are even worse.

 

[Birdhunter1]

Sand burrs are their own kind of evil, they will tear a dogs feet apart on a week long hunting trip if you don't put boots on your dog.

 

[roadhunter]

I also have my tires foamed. Seems like overkill for a lawn tractor but you never have to worry about a flat and you get the benefit of the extra weight for traction and stability.

We also ahve issues with the "goat heads" or "sand burrs". Gives my daughters bike flat tires. I am constantly pulling them up in the yard trying to keep them out. I find myself wandering the yard looking for that crap. They are all over the edges of the country roads here.

 

[STx]

There isn't much sandburs won't stick to.

You need to treat for them before they get out of hand. If it's in a yard, Image will give some post-emergent control but, it'll likely require repeated applications. There are 2 types of Image, make sure you get the one that has Imazaquin as the active ingredient. In a pasture, MSMA gives excellent post-emergent control. You used to be able to use MSMA in lawns but, it's no longer an approved use of the product. It would still work in a lawn though...

This fall and early spring, you'll want to control them pre-emergent. Pendimethalin gives very good pre-emergent control and is going to be your best bet for preventing them from spreading further. In fact, if they've just started to get a hold in your property, I'd treat with pendi now and spot treat the active plants with Image. If you're dealing with a pasture, I'd do pendi and broadcast MSMA. One application of MSMA should take out any active plants and if you keep the pendi up, especially along the property line, you should be able to prevent them from getting hold.

Once they've spread, you've got a real battle on your hands. I've been battling them most of this year and have just now got them sort of controlled in my fenced yard. It's taken 3 applications of Image to get there and I still have issues in some areas. We've just seeded that area this year so I haven't been able to do any pre-emergent control yet but, I'll be on it this fall for sure.

Sanburs suck and they're tough to control.

 

[CCWKen]

We call them grass burs in these parts. (AKA sand burs.) The ones in the wiki links we call goat heads. The grass burs are hard to get rid of and don't respond to anything but a very expensive pre-emergent. (See link below.) And it doesn't work that well since you need to know where they are to treat the area. They'll pop up two feet away and the cycle starts over again. We've been battling them for the last 20 years here. About all you can do is mow short and mow often--Don't let them go to seed. If you have a grass catcher on a lawn mower, that helps to collect the seeds and you can dispose of that cycle. Keep your lawn in good health and it will eventually chook out the grass burs.

I've tried a lawn sweep and dragging old blankets around to collect them. Nothing works better than keeping the good grass healthy and mow, mow, mow.

And there's nothing you can do to keep them off tractor tires. Use a lawn mower in the area until you get them under control.

The scoop on grass burs: Sandbur or Grassbur Control | Archives | Aggie Horticulture

 

[Industrial Toys]

I tried Googling "Stickers" and got nothing but adhesive thingamigigies. I guess Texas has different vegitation, obviously. We have lot's of nasty, prickly things. Burdocks, thistles, hawthornes and the best way to control them is to just keep the grass short and not allow them to grow. It doesn't help much though if you have pasture.

I can't think of how to keep them off of the tires. Just something impractical and really out there. Go to the dump and get some old Microwave Magnetrons. Mount them close to the wheels where they will hopefully cook the seeds. Be sure to wear a tinfoil hat and underware.

 

[STx]

We call them grass burs in these parts. (AKA sand burs.) The ones in the wiki links we call goat heads. The grass burs are hard to get rid of and don't respond to anything but a very expensive pre-emergent. (See link below.) And it doesn't work that well since you need to know where they are to treat the area. They'll pop up two feet away and the cycle starts over again. We've been battling them for the last 20 years here. About all you can do is mow short and mow often--Don't let them go to seed. If you have a grass catcher on a lawn mower, that helps to collect the seeds and you can dispose of that cycle. Keep your lawn in good health and it will eventually chook out the grass burs.

I've tried a lawn sweep and dragging old blankets around to collect them. Nothing works better than keeping the good grass healthy and mow, mow, mow.

And there's nothing you can do to keep them off tractor tires. Use a lawn mower in the area until you get them under control.

The scoop on grass burs: Sandbur or Grassbur Control | Archives | Aggie Horticulture

Pendi is pretty cheap, I can treat an acre for less than $100. Image is also about $100/acre, MSMA is more like $25/acre. If you use what I suggested in my post immediately preceding yours, you will be able to get rid of them. In a yard, you should be making 2 - 3 broadcast pre-emergent applications per year anyway, easier to control weeds before they get established. I normally do pendi in the fall and barricade in the spring in Houston. Barricade doesn't control sandbur though so here, I'll be doing pendi only and use 2,4-d to control the broad leaf weeds that we'll get post emergent.

Spot-treating alone won't work. You have to make a broadcast application and then spot treat what pops up afterwards. It's a real pain to get rid of but, it can be done. We had them so bad last year that the dogs couldn't walk with us. They'd literally take 2 steps and have 8 - 10 sandburs in every paw. This year, I've been here and stayed on top of it so we only have a few here and there that still need to be killed off.

 

[CCWKen]

You obviously have deep pockets and can afford to throw $100 bills around. I tried everything suggested by the Ag experts the first few years. And the yard kept getting larger by the year as I cut back the brush. It doesn't matter what you put down, they come back after the first rain. I can't spend $2000+ a year on a "lawn" or $50,000 a year on fields. I prefer the natural way. So far, I'm staying ahead of them for the most part. I've never gotten a flat tire from grass burs anyway. The real problem is Mesquite trees that constantly shed branches with real thorns. For me, mowing is the best control for burs. After all, I'm not raising a golf course.

 

[STx]

I'm only treating about 3,000 sq/ft that's fenced in. I mowed at 3/4" for part of the year and 2 days later I'd have sandburs with fresh spikes on them, I couldn't keep up with it mowing alone and it's not fair to the dogs to get paws full of burs every time they go to the bathroom. It's not practical to treat much over an acre, unless you're raising horse hay. I think I've got $150 into chemicals this year and I haven't used it all.

I've not gotten a flat from the mesquite thorns yet but, I put one through the sole of my shoe about every other week. Those things hurt.