Stihl 025C 0: Oaks 1/2

[Phred]

Hi,

Bought a stihl 025C. Looks like a great saw.
I cut a few tress and it seemed to work great.

However, I have a couple of ~18" oaks. Boy these guys are tough. The saw seems to struggle a bit. Is this normal?
I can't imagine that I need to sharpen the chain after only one days use. But how often do most of you sharpen the chain?
Also seems to run through the bar oil almost as fast as the gas. Is this normal?

Thanks

Fred

 

[Jag]

Phred, the saws are usually set to use a tank of bar oil with a tank of gas, always fill up both each time. If I am doing a lot of cutting wood, not just trimming trees I will sharpen the chain about once an hour, or every time I fill the gas tank. Just three or so quick strokes each each tooth is all it will take to the chain sharp. Unless you get it into the dirt or the tree has been drug through the dirt, hit a nail or wire or other metal..(which happen more than most would believe working around old fence lines or even barns.

 

[Jag]

Phred, also on 18" oaks you may be a little under sawed for full time work. Most timber cutter use a 029 or bigger for trimming.. Dad had an old 029 when I moved back to the home place and I finally got where I hated to even use it...

 

[HR_Mutt]

Phred
I carry a pair of those into the woods w/ me. Should be able to drop and cut 18" oak just fine. As other post suggested, did you hit the dirt or something other than wood? Also, if you cut some locust it'll dull the blade quickly. Are you still getting good chips when cutting or do they look like powder?
regards
Mutt

 

[dmccarty]

Phred,

Like others have said, I touch up the chain with a chainsaw file between tanks of fuel. I have a 046 and I'll go through a tank of gas in 45 minutes of heavy cutting. If I'm limbing trees I might get 60-90 minutes since I'm not running the saw as hard.

Since you have a new chain, make sure that it has not loosened up. A loose chain will not cut as well as a tight chain and new chains will loosen up when first run. I have also noticed that some of my chains seem to loosen up if it is cold outside compared to summer time use. I'll have to stop after 15 minutes or so and retighten the chain.

Hope this helps...
Dan McCarty

 

[GlennT]

I am gradually clearing some dead live oaks and a whole bunch of real live "cedars" (called that, but actually junipers). I cut the stumps low, so I can run the shredder over them, so I'm getting into dirt, small stones, etc. I'm lucky if I can get half of a day on a chain without sharpening it. Also, I've given up sharpening my own chains. I don't have the necessary equipment and I found that I'm not sharpening evenly. I can always tell when I've messed up, because the saw wants to cut to one side or another, no matter what I do. So, I bite the bullet and take the chain(s) to town to the John Deeler (who also is my friendly Stihl dealer). I have five chains and during the rare cool weather in central Texas one or more of the chains seem to reside in the dealer's shop waiting to be sharpened. They smile when they see me coming and they know my name! I realize I'm spending a bunch of money on this, but a dull or badly sharpened saw is hard on me and the saw and a waste of time as well.

 

[RichZ]

I agree with Glenn. I never realized how easy it is to dull a chainsaw. I recently got a new Husky 350. Great saw, and I love it. The very first tree I cut had some old wire buried in it that I couldn't see. I hit it, sparks flew, and the blade dulled. Luckily the dealer is just done the road. I brought it in and told him what happened, and he laughed and sharpened it for free. The next weekend I was cutting up the trees I had taken down the weekend before. One of the logs was rotted in the middle and I didnt even realize it. The saw cut through it like butter, and I hit the dirt with it. Dulled it right away! Back to the dealer, who sharpened it again for free. Since then I've used it several times without dulling it, but next time I'll take it back to the dealer, and expect to pay a little. It's worth it, because he can sharpen it much more evenly then I can.

Rich

 

[Jag]

Phred, one thing about sharping the chain in the field, if you do not let it get badly dull it will take only a few strokes to keep it sharp. The duller it gets the harder it is to restore and the more likely that you can mis-sharpen the chain. Also if you let the bar get pinched by the tree or a large limb twist on the bar so that it binds, it can bend a tooth or a couple of teeth, and then it will not cut straight no matter how you sharpen it. I try to keep a spare chain at the house or in the work bucket I use in the field for running small equipment. It is a good idea if you are cleaning up downed timber, fence lines, etc, and not just cutting fire wood because the trees can really be twisted and not in very easy places to work. With the ice storm damage we had last year, I am still having to deal with trees laying over on one another and it is a lot harder and more dangerous. Running a chain saw takes a lot of experence to do a good job and not tear up the equipment. It is alot like using a back blade or a box blade, to work well it take just the right touch. With the saw it is not as apparent because anybody can get the wood cut and the look of a bad job and a good job is close. But if you watch some one run a chain that is good at it you can see the difference...

 

[dmccarty]

Phred,

As I was rereading some of the posts the other thing to make sure you are not doing is pushing the saw. Let the saw cut and dont push it. I noticed when I was first cutting up 20+ inch diameter trees I would push with my left hand, the hand that is on the forward control bar. Thats not a good thing. If I just let the front hand control the saw, not push, and let the back hand pull the saw up that would cause the saw to cut better. Also make sure that on large diameter wood, make sure that you keep the saw perpendicular to the tree. Its easy, especially if I push instead of pull to get the saw to start cutting at an angle which is badness. You will see this in that you won't have straight, linear cuts.

The most cutting power of the saw is on the bottom of the bar right next to the engine housing....

Again, as others have said, it only takes a second to dull a chain. If you put the tip in the dirt you have a problem. You see sparks from metal or stone you have a bigger problem. I bet I have 3-4 chains I rotate through. I have a couple more that our old and need to be tossed out....

Did you get a set of chaps and helmet? I know I'm nagging again but I can't help it. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif A chainsaw is the most dangerous thing I own. A chainsaw does not give many chances for failure and since I work alone my room for error is all but zero. Safety equipment, most importantly whats between my ears, is the only edge I have with this thing......

I wish I could see Jag's SuperDuperChainSawer so I could see what I'm doing wrong! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Or right! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Hope this helps and be careful...
Dan McCarty

 

[BBearden]

I have a 026 that get used at least 4 hours a week. I mostly clear junipers. So I hit lots of rocks and dirt. I usually sharpen at least once every hour. I have a round file that is made for that exact chain. It only takes a few strokes a tooth to get it back into shape. I also have about 4 chain that I rotate. I also fill up bar oil every time I fill with gas. Great saw. It starts up everytime, and has handled tha abuse I give it.