Stihl MS290 problem

[stevenf]

Sigarms, it sounds like you know way more then me about chain saws but we heat with wood exclusively so we cut a fair amount of wood every year and I've owned stihls for almost thirty years without ever having a problem. One day last year my little stihl quit and wouldn't go, I'm not great in the preventive maintenance department, I'm usually the try and fix it when its broke guy. It came back to haunt me and cost me 60 bucks and a few mechanics laughing at me to fix it. It was acting like what you describe. Take off the muffler and clean out all the exhaust areas you can reach maybe even compressed air blow the heck out of all of it. My exhaust system was clogged and after they cleaned it out and showed me how to do it I've never had another minute of trouble with it. Hope this helps although you did say that you had looked at something to do with exhaust and had some baked on stuff but what they cleaned out was from deeper then just the muffler off.
Steve

 

[stevenf]

Sigarms, it sounds like you know way more then me about chain saws but we heat with wood exclusively so we cut a fair amount of wood every year and I've owned stihls for almost thirty years without ever having a problem. One day last year my little stihl quit and wouldn't go, I'm not great in the preventive maintenance department, I'm usually the try and fix it when its broke guy. It came back to haunt me and cost me 60 bucks and a few mechanics laughing at me to fix it. It was acting like what you describe. Take off the muffler and clean out all the exhaust areas you can reach maybe even compressed air blow the heck out of all of it. My exhaust system was clogged and after they cleaned it out and showed me how to do it I've never had another minute of trouble with it. Hope this helps although you did say that you had looked at something to do with exhaust and had some baked on stuff but what they cleaned out was from deeper then just the muffler off.
Steve

 

[MotorSeven]

Sig,
If gas is leaking out of the muf, it's got a carb prob or it's flooded. I know you said your starting it proper...just to make sure....cold saw: lever all the way down to choke, pull till it 'pops", click lever up one notch, pull till it starts, then click lever up one more notch. Warm saw: lever to run position and pull till it starts(no choke, no throttle lock). ANY time i have inadvertnly deviated with this sequence my Stihl floods. If you have been doing this correct i would suggest that you go to www.Arboristsite.com, sign up and go to the "chainsaw forum". Their are some guys on there that really know their stuff and will help you trouble shoot it quickly.

 

[MotorSeven]

Sig,
If gas is leaking out of the muf, it's got a carb prob or it's flooded. I know you said your starting it proper...just to make sure....cold saw: lever all the way down to choke, pull till it 'pops", click lever up one notch, pull till it starts, then click lever up one more notch. Warm saw: lever to run position and pull till it starts(no choke, no throttle lock). ANY time i have inadvertnly deviated with this sequence my Stihl floods. If you have been doing this correct i would suggest that you go to www.Arboristsite.com, sign up and go to the "chainsaw forum". Their are some guys on there that really know their stuff and will help you trouble shoot it quickly.

 

[Sigarms]

I have this problem, I'm not a "book person" and learn the quickest when someone shows and explains me how to do somthing.

This can get me into trouble when there is no one around to show me what to do and I decide to find out on my own how somthing works (for better or worse, I was never mechanically inclined).

I've found that somtimes there are "speciffic" tools to put things back together which I did not own, thats when I get embaressed (sp?) when I have to go back to a "dealer" of some sort with a piece of equipment I owned.

I wished I would of "quizzed" that tech before on the saw to see EXACTLY what was wrong and understand why it was wrong.

 

[Sigarms]

I have this problem, I'm not a "book person" and learn the quickest when someone shows and explains me how to do somthing.

This can get me into trouble when there is no one around to show me what to do and I decide to find out on my own how somthing works (for better or worse, I was never mechanically inclined).

I've found that somtimes there are "speciffic" tools to put things back together which I did not own, thats when I get embaressed (sp?) when I have to go back to a "dealer" of some sort with a piece of equipment I owned.

I wished I would of "quizzed" that tech before on the saw to see EXACTLY what was wrong and understand why it was wrong.

 

[Sigarms]

Saw started up at six this morning which got my wife VERY upset /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Came back and read some of the follow up posts.

Don't laugh (you may anyway), but I think you may be correct.

For the only excuse is my own stupidity, I think the other day while I was cutting down some of those trees, I was running the saw in the "warm start" position all day.

Perhaps this caused it to flood when I shut it off and then restart it some time later? (not sure).

We'll see, supposed to get in the 90's today and will be using the saw shortly.

I at least now know how to take the muffler off and know all the parts in that area.

Appreciate all the feedback.

 

[Sigarms]

Saw started up at six this morning which got my wife VERY upset /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Came back and read some of the follow up posts.

Don't laugh (you may anyway), but I think you may be correct.

For the only excuse is my own stupidity, I think the other day while I was cutting down some of those trees, I was running the saw in the "warm start" position all day.

Perhaps this caused it to flood when I shut it off and then restart it some time later? (not sure).

We'll see, supposed to get in the 90's today and will be using the saw shortly.

I at least now know how to take the muffler off and know all the parts in that area.

Appreciate all the feedback.

 

[MotorSeven]

Sig, the "warm start" position(lever down one click) would be correct for any start unless the saw has cooled down colmpletly. They are finikey unless the sequence is done correctly. If you mess that up they are very unforgiving(once flooded). Even at 90deg, most of the time i have to choke to get 'em to start up if the saw is room temp. I can see you didn't take the 8 hr "starting certification " course..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have found that different mfgs 2 strokes usually have their own pecuilar sequence and trial & error is the way most of us figure them out. It can be frustrating /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

RD

 

[MotorSeven]

Sig, the "warm start" position(lever down one click) would be correct for any start unless the saw has cooled down colmpletly. They are finikey unless the sequence is done correctly. If you mess that up they are very unforgiving(once flooded). Even at 90deg, most of the time i have to choke to get 'em to start up if the saw is room temp. I can see you didn't take the 8 hr "starting certification " course..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have found that different mfgs 2 strokes usually have their own pecuilar sequence and trial & error is the way most of us figure them out. It can be frustrating /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

RD