STILL RUNNING HOT!!

   / STILL RUNNING HOT!! #1  

roger ramjet

New member
Joined
Sep 18, 2023
Messages
2
Tractor
XR4046
Hey LS owners!!! Is there any correlation with an LS XR4046 running HOT when it goes through the regen process? Seems that mine pegs the temp guage when it goes to regen. It also goes into limp mode when it does this. I've changed thermostat and the sensor on the housing also. Any ideas would be helpful. It's a great tractor till it does this. I hate to sell it, but if it keeps this up she'll be gone. Thanks for any suggestions.
 
   / STILL RUNNING HOT!! #2  
Make sure your radiator is clear and it's probably the temp sensor if your radiator coolant is flowing.... Can check the flow, take cap off start the tractor let it warm up and see if the water is actually flowing after warm up.

Blow out your air filter too while yer there.
 
   / STILL RUNNING HOT!! #3  
Lots of radiators, oil coolers, and A/C condensers that may look clean from the front but are plugged in the middle where you can't see. Blow them out with compressed air and see what happens. I know 2 guys that swore theirs were clean because they blew the fins clean with an electric leaf blower. I shined a flashlight on one side and looked through from the other side and could not see light through most of it. Blew it out with an air compressor and you couldn't see the tractor because of the large cloud of dust and dirt that came out.
 
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   / STILL RUNNING HOT!! #4  
Lots of radiators, oil coolers, and A/C condensers that may look clean from the front but are plugged in the middle where you can't see. Blow them out with compressed air and see what happens. I know 2 guys that swore theirs were clean because they blew the fins clean with an electric leaf blower. I shined a flashlight on one side and looked through from the other side and could not see light through most of it. Blew it out with an air compressor and you couldn't see the tractor because of the large cloud of dust and dirt that came out.
Yep^^I have done that too. The radiator may "look" clean but if air can't freely flow through the entire surface, it's not exchanging heat like it should. You have to do the light test to be sure. (y)
 
   / STILL RUNNING HOT!! #5  
When you go into regen you should be running at 2700+ RPM to keep the engine from running hot.

There is a regen temp light that comes on next to the regen light they should both be on during the regen cycle.
 
   / STILL RUNNING HOT!! #6  
One guy was desperate and wanted to cut extra vent holes in the hood to get more air in there. He said it was clean because he blew the front off with the leaf blower. He was wrong. I see lots of loose fan belts too and the owner can't figure out what that squealing noise is. I told one guy to tighten his belt and he said he couldn't because he didn't know how to open the hood, and he had owned the tractor for 2 years already.
 
   / STILL RUNNING HOT!! #7  
When mine regens, I'm usually at 2200rpm, and the engine speeds up a little, maybe 50rpm. I don't agree that you must be running at 2700+rpm during regen. PTO speed should be more than sufficient. My temp gauge goes up a bit during regen, which is expected, but it has never gone past about 3/4. I have used the spray nozzle in a garden hose to wash out the oil cooler and radiator fins. Lots of stuff comes out of the back of the radiator, even after cleaning with compressed air. Just be sure to spray directly at the fins without too much pressure, or you risk bending them (a pressure washer is a bad idea!).
 
   / STILL RUNNING HOT!! #8  
The regeneration cycle is designed to burn out the soot and particles captured in the DPF. To do this, the engine must get hot and then start the cycle, which burns more fuel to increase the exhaust gas temperatures. It makes reasonable sense to run the engine hard, preferably under a load, to get the engine as hot as possible to aid in burning out the stuck particles.

When I know the regeneration cycle is about to commence, in an hour or two, I will try to do something with the tractor: Go out and mow down the field, do some loader work, regrade the driveway, etc. Just to work the engine before (or perhaps during) a regeneration cycle. When I see that regeneration light come on, I typically firewall the hand throttle. This is not needed as the ECU will run up the engine to the required RPM on its own.

While more is not always better, in this case it is. More heat means more burning of the particles retained in the DPF. More heat is gained with the engine running at it's full potential under a load. While the ECU can rev the engine to the required RPM to achieve regeneration, running it faster and hotter is best. Just pay attention to the tractor during regen. Watch for overheating, runaways, etc.

If the tractor is overheating, during a regeneration cycle or under a heavy load, then there is likely a coolant problem. The most common cooling problems encounterd with these tractors is a clogged radiator. However, low coolant levels, loose belts, bad thermostats, and bad water pumps can all contribute to overheating. Make sure you keep the tractor engine clean as well. A thick layer of oil and dirt adhered to the engine block acts as an insulator. If you're experiencing overheating, do all that you can to keep it cool.
 

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