stopped up grease joint

[woodsaw]

Hello to all. I have a grease fitting on an implement that is stopped up. I have replaced the grease zert so that is not the problem. I simply want to screw a nipple into the grease zert hole, and pour some solvent into it. My grease zert is a 1/4 x 28 (as labeled on my grease zert pack). I have verified the threads are 1/4 x 28. I went to lowes and they have nothing close. It even seems a standard 1/4 brass nipple with pipe threads is actually almost 1/2" OD. The grease zert OD is 1/4" It seems I have stepped into one of my many simple ideas that gets really complicated. Does anybody know where I can get a 1/4 x 28 nipple? Thanks

 

[GeneV]

That's a huge zerk sounds like. One suggest I would offer, I came across a few times when a zerk wouldn't take grease without me moving the joint, like extending the boom on the backhoe or something like that. I imagine the grease dried up right against the back side of the zerk, but moving the joint freed it up.

 

[5030]

it's Zerk not Zert and quit using cheap clay based grease. Cheap grease hardens in the fitting and between moving parts and does no good lubrication wise.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Fill with solvent or light oil https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Products-America-7862H-Rejuvenator/dp/B0000AXDB3

 

[Cougsfan]

it's Zerk not Zert and quit using cheap clay based grease. Cheap grease hardens in the fitting and between moving parts and does no good lubrication wise.

I think I have read that several times in this forum. I have read all my various grease cartridge labels (various brands) and haven't found one that says it is clay based. Assuming this is good advice, how do you identify clay based grease?

 

[Midniteoyl]

clay based grease

It doesn't say 'lithium' Seriously though, clay is used for high heat applications, like bearing grease, since it's normally spec'd up to 550F but has no real melt point or drop point.

However, the main reason that grease goes solid is mixing 2 different types. If you switch thickening types (lithium, clay, urea), it's best to purge the joint/bearing of the old original type. Just because it's 'clay' doesn't mean it dries out like mud

 

[DJ54]

Try removing the zerk, and clean the hole down to the pin. Fill the hole with solvent/penatrate, then reinstall the zerk. Put the grease gun on it, and push hard. Most guns put out 10,000-12000 psi. That much pressure will push the liquid a lot easier than the grease. Once the penatrate breaks through, the grease will follow.

If it's in a spot where the hole is horizontal, you can clean the hole, then make a half dam across the hole, and squirt solvent in, and quickly srcew the zerk in, and put the gun to it. I've had nearly 100% success using this method. If it didn't work, there was a bushing in there, that the lube hole in the bushing had spun.

 

[5030]

I think I have read that several times in this forum. I have read all my various grease cartridge labels (various brands) and haven't found one that says it is clay based. Assuming this is good advice, how do you identify clay based grease?

By the initial cost. Clay based greases are always the cheapest greases you can buy. Myself, I only use Lubrication Engineers synthetic Teflon added grease. It's very expensive but in my applications (farming), works very well and I've not had a lubrication related failure in decades, nor a plugged up zerk fitting.

I don't buy my grease in cartridges, never have. I buy my grease in bulk (150 pound drums). I have an air greaser and I fill my hand guns from it as well.

The other issue with clay based grease is, it tends to collect and harden where it oozes out from greased assemblies and is hard to remove. That don't happen with synthetic grease. I really don't like crudded up components where the grease collects on various parts and is almost impossible to remove.

 

[Williy]

You could try plumbers putty if you want to
get some solvent in just form a cup around
the hole and fill with solvent think the plumbers
putty will do the trick

willy

 

[joecdeere]

Heat up the area with a propane torch or heat gun, then as it softens pump in new good grease until all the old grease is out

 

[number two]

To the OP,a 1/4 x 28 is the very most common grease fitting on the planet.
It is 1/4 x 28NF(National Fine)-28 threads per inch.
They usually have a head size of 9/32 " or 5/16 ".
Any auto parts store,farm store,etc.,will have them.
Good suggestions here!
Good Luck!

 

[John_Mc]

I second David_Kb7uns recommendation to try a grease joint rejuvenator. I got mine from Northern Tool. You fill it up with a solvent such as WD 40 or similar penetrating oil, attach it to your grease zerk and tap the end with a hammer, forcing grease into the joint. If the problem is hardened up grease in the joint, one application is usually enough to get things moving again. On rare occasions, I've had to refill and hit the joint again.

It has proven to be a handy tool to have around.

 

[woodsaw]

Hello to all. I have a grease fitting on an implement that is stopped up. I have replaced the grease zert so that is not the problem. I simply want to screw a nipple into the grease zert hole, and pour some solvent into it. My grease zert is a 1/4 x 28 (as labeled on my grease zert pack). I have verified the threads are 1/4 x 28. I went to lowes and they have nothing close. It even seems a standard 1/4 brass nipple with pipe threads is actually almost 1/2" OD. The grease zert OD is 1/4" It seems I have stepped into one of my many simple ideas that gets really complicated. Does anybody know where I can get a 1/4 x 28 nipple? Thanks

Thanks to all for you advice. I have a grease buster tool from loc and lube but didn't have any success. I ordered an adapter to go on my bosh impact drill / hammer to transition from the sks chuck to a standard chuck. I then can use the impact plunger on the loc and lube grease buster kit. I also today ordered from loc and lube a quick connect hose adapter which is essentially a 12" hose with a zerk on one end and a coupler on the other end. I will screw the couple off and fill hose with a solvent. I have not tried heat yet. That will be my last resort. Just kind of wanting to try different techniques first for a future reference. Thanks again for all your advice.

 

[DJ54]

Definitely let us know how the solvent trick works. I hasn't failed me yet..!!

 

[Sberry]

I did a couple the other day on somkeone tractor and simply removed the pin, cleaned and greased fix the zerk and replace.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Thanks to all for you advice. I have a grease buster tool from loc and lube but didn't have any success. I ordered an adapter to go on my bosh impact drill / hammer to transition from the sks chuck to a standard chuck. I then can use the impact plunger on the loc and lube grease buster kit. I also today ordered from loc and lube a quick connect hose adapter which is essentially a 12" hose with a zerk on one end and a coupler on the other end. I will screw the couple off and fill hose with a solvent. I have not tried heat yet. That will be my last resort. Just kind of wanting to try different techniques first for a future reference. Thanks again for all your advice.

Not too much heat. Hot to touch only - - not sizzle hot. That could damage the seal in your grease gun coupler.

 

[Williy]

Send the tiddy bowl man down with a dept charge

willy

 

[woodsaw]

Hello, just a follow up. I bought the professional grease gun from loc n lube. The one that has a lever as opposed to a "pistol grip" type. It worked great. The grease went right in with little effort. I assume the old grease gun I had with the pistol grip style just wasn't up to par. And also by the way, the grease I use is lithium.

Thanks to all, and I'm sure some of your tips will come in handy in the future for random problems.

 

[woodsaw]

I bought the lever type grease gun because at my age I losing grip strength along with arthritis. The lock on coupling is a great help also.

thanks

 

[sheilacorvin298]

Have you ever tried welding machine to repair your home improvement gadgets, or industrial or factories machinery.