strengthening tie rods

[arrow]

One of the weak links on a tractor especially if you go in the woods with it. On my old tractor, I was able to unscrew the tie rod ends, slam a pipe on it, weld the pipe to the tie rod and screw the tie rod ends back in. On the new tractor the tie rod ends are welded to the tie rod so I cannot use that technique I used on the old one.The tie rod only has a quarter inch of clearance at the center part of the tractor. Before I go the extra work of finding the same size tie rod end, cutting a tie rod out of pipe, tapping threads into the pipe so as to be able to screw the rod ends into and finally slamming another pipe onto this to gain double wall strength has anyone come up with a technique of strengthening their tie rod of the one piece variety?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Arrow, do you have your tractor yet? I just looked at my 3215, and I don't see how you would be able to do much of anything. You have the ram that goes side-side and the ends that flex-pivot that connect the ram to the hub. There really isn't any open tie rod material to beef up. I guess that you could make some sort of guard for in front of the steering, I just don't see how to beef up the actual steering though.

 

[94BULLITT]

Watch were you are going and you will be fine :thumbsup:

 

[arrow]

Arrow, do you have your tractor yet? I just looked at my 3215, and I don't see how you would be able to do much of anything. You have the ram that goes side-side and the ends that flex-pivot that connect the ram to the hub. There really isn't any open tie rod material to beef up. I guess that you could make some sort of guard for in front of the steering, I just don't see how to beef up the actual steering though.

There is no ram ( I'm assuming this is your power steering?) on the 3016 that acts as the drag link or tie rod. It is a straight piece with welded ends.

 

[arrow]

Watch were you are going and you will be fine :thumbsup:

I've watched where I'm going and have been less than fine. The woods here are of a cantankerous nature and all the tie rods I've bent I've done backing up.

 

[arrow]

As soon as I get this tractor, I'm gonna take off the tie rod and weld two pieces of 1" angle iron around it

 

[kebo]

Folks, there is a reason that the tie rod is designed to be weak link in the front end. Think about it, as soon as you strengthen the tie rod, what do you suppose will be the next weakest link to bend or break???? Probably something that will cost more to repair than a tie rod.

 

[arrow]

Folks, there is a reason that the tie rod is designed to be weak link in the front end. Think about it, as soon as you strengthen the tie rod, what do you suppose will be the next weakest link to bend or break???? Probably something that will cost more to repair than a tie rod.

Its such a weak link that it costs $270 per to replace which is a ridiculous amount for a 3' 5/8" rod with tie rod ends welded to it.. Lets look at this from how I've bent tie rods. Going forward, the front axle has negotiated a "stick up" which in my case has been a 1" to 1 and 1/2 " of bush or sapling stubble. Backing up however and watching where you are going backwards, this little stubble is enough to render a bend in the tie rod when it gets hung up. By strengthening this area, the stubble gives way instead of the tie rod. I had bent my previous tie rod 3 times in 5 years before I strengthened it. In the next 23 years I have had no problem in any fashion. I'll ask you what is the next thing to bend or break in a case such as this? For me, there has been nothing else to do so except the stubble.

 

[RaydaKub]

Its such a weak link that it costs $270 per to replace which is a ridiculous amount for a 3' 5/8" rod with tie rod ends welded to it.. Lets look at this from how I've bent tie rods. Going forward, the front axle has negotiated a "stick up" which in my case has been a 1" to 1 and 1/2 " of bush or sapling stubble. Backing up however and watching where you are going backwards, this little stubble is enough to render a bend in the tie rod when it gets hung up. By strengthening this area, the stubble gives way instead of the tie rod. I had bent my previous tie rod 3 times in 5 years before I strengthened it. In the next 23 years I have had no problem in any fashion. I'll ask you what is the next thing to bend or break in a case such as this? For me, there has been nothing else to do so except the stubble.

My dad bent the tie rod on his old 47 International truck. He pounded it straight and welded an angle iron to it. It only lasted until the engine seized up some 35 years later.

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[art]

Some manufacturers still have the drag links below the axle on the tractors they are producing. Most new designs have them above so this does not normally happen.