Thanks for pointing that out. You would think that there would be some sort of standard. Don't really care about sizing numbers per say, just cared about what size extractor works with what size bolt/stud. Because they're not cheap I was originally thinking of getting just one extractor socket specifically for removing my M16 x 1.5 stud. Have since decided to get a set rather than a single extractor. Hopefully a set will cover it and hopefully they will come in handy down the road.
Stripped Stud and Stud Extractors
- Thread starter llbaker2
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Thanks for pointing that out. You would think that there would be some sort of standard. Don't really care about sizing numbers per say, just cared about what size extractor works with what size bolt/stud. Because they're not cheap I was originally thinking of getting just one extractor socket specifically for removing my M16 x 1.5 stud. Have since decided to get a set rather than a single extractor. Hopefully a set will cover it and hopefully they will come in handy down the road.
I feel like I'm beating a dead horse but figured I might as well pass this along. Sent Irwin an email when I started this thread. Just got a response today. According to Tim from Irwin customer service "you need to measure across the corners of the Bolt head, then pick the equivalent size for the Stud. In this case, the 3/8 Bolt head is equivalent to a 16mm Stud".
According to the chart below a standard 3/8" bolt measures .650 - .628 width across hex head corners. I did the conversion for 16mm to inches and it came out to .629". According to Irwin a 3/8" extractor would be used to remove a 16mm stud. Irwin says their extractors are sized according to hex size not nominal shaft size. So based on your experience (Vince) and the email I received from Irwin different manufacturers apparently base their sizing on different criteria.
According to the chart below a standard 3/8" bolt measures .650 - .628 width across hex head corners. I did the conversion for 16mm to inches and it came out to .629". According to Irwin a 3/8" extractor would be used to remove a 16mm stud. Irwin says their extractors are sized according to hex size not nominal shaft size. So based on your experience (Vince) and the email I received from Irwin different manufacturers apparently base their sizing on different criteria.
Last edited:
David_Kb7uns
Veteran Member
David_Kb7uns
Veteran Member
Can't you just cut a new thread group onto the stud using assize lower die ? Meanwhile, heat the damaged stud up in case it was Loc-Tite sealed. Heat releases the Loc-Tite. Also check the replacement stud first to see if it's a left handed thread going into the hub
cycle_gator
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I have removed the studs from the rear hub of my L4310 and found the cam style extractor worked just great. They do depend on having a healthy amount of stud exposed and will not work in tight quarters. In those cases much better off with the hammer on socket style extractors.
Gary Fowler
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Why not just get a full set, they aren't that expensive. Next time you may need a different size so getting them in a set like the Craftsman would allow you a variety of options for stud/bolt removal.
Then just pick one that fits snug, hammer it on and see it you can break it further up the bolt shaft, then you can buy a EZ out set which when you break one of those off inside the bolt, you have a bigger problem.
Then just pick one that fits snug, hammer it on and see it you can break it further up the bolt shaft, then you can buy a EZ out set which when you break one of those off inside the bolt, you have a bigger problem.
Sorry for delay. Busy with hunting season. All else on hold. I have my priorities you know. Thanks, all good comments. Yes I could cut new, clean up existing threads but would first have to order the die and wait 7-10 days to receive. Don't have one that large in metric fine and doubt I would ever use it again while I might use extractor again some day. Would also need to order a die stock (handle). Don't have one large enough to fit a 1 1/2 - 2 inch die. Live smack dab in the middle of nowhere so cant get die/handle locally. As I stated previously I first plan to weld a nut to existing stud. The welding process will heat stud red hot which I think should take care of any loc-tite. Already checked replacement stud. Its right hand thread going into hub.
Doing this myself in effort to save a few bucks. Originally thought I would just buy the one extractor required to do the job but as I said previously I have since decided to get a set. Regardless the issue was my desire to understand how extractors were sized not necessarily how to do the job. I hope, I hope, I hope I don't have to try eazy out.
Welded nut to stud. Came right out, no problem. Wheel removal/install went without a hitch. Just took my time. Careful to keep wheel/tire upright (filled with fluid). Went slow and steady. Thanks to all for comments. Was kinda intimidated by this project but all went well except for the stripped stud. Even that went pretty well. Only issue now is I have to order a new nut to replace the one I stripped. Cant find any M16-1.5 nuts in the one horse town I live near. Ordered a few extras from Fastenal just in case.