Stuck on a hill

[bluechip]

Yes, the middle lever. Don't feel bad, they aren't labled very well, and you cant really see anyghing happen, until you need it. Remember to push down, not pull up as you can break the small casting, (not expensive or hard to replace).

 

[SPIKER]

yep thats it, just remember that is has a pretty LONG through, sorta like on old floor mounted truck shifter, only don't get so rough wiht it! lol... takes very little actual pressure to move it. and once resistance is met push slightly while it is moving, (one wheel slipping SLOWLY if running full speed do not engauge it.) also NEVER engauge it on HARD surface that the tires can get a GOOD bite in it and turn the wheel, it CAN and MAY and MIGHT lock the dogs into the hole plate resulting in a locked up rear end which will have to have one wheel raised and a crow bar under the seat cover operation if it gets too solidly locked! (This has happened many times in the past and was a well read subject back in the day but I have not heard anything that way in over a year or so... they may have changed the design some on the newier ones.?

MarkM /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[SevenCorners]

So in other words, don't engage it unless needed, right? How often do you use yours?

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How often do you use yours? )</font>
Only when you lose traction in conditions that make one rear wheel spin. Engaging the diff lock "turns on" the other rear wheel

//greg//

 

[ToolManRick]

Touched up your photo so there's no doubt as to which is the differential lock.

This lever has a VERY long stroke and will go nearly to the floor boards when engaged. You usually have to gently spin a tire in soft ground (be stuck) to engage it. I've only used mine once, but it's very handy going striaght. Never keep it engaged for anything but a straight push/pull situation.

I've learned a lot on this board also. A good gathering spot for knowledge and experience, of which we all lack some.

 

[Egon]

Just a word of caution. When working slopes and the diff. lock is used the rear of the tractor may slide in the direction of least resistance putting the tractor at an angle you may not appreciate.

Egon

 

[SevenCorners]

Rick,
Thats pretty good work with the diagram, what program do you use to make the text additions?

 

[ToolManRick]

SevenCorners... I use a program called Picture Publisher put out by MicroGrafix. Pretty sure they got bought out by somebody in the past year or so. It's the poor man's version of Adobe PhotoShop. I have a copy of that too, but Adobe has never wanted to use the Window's interface convention. So, I never got used to Adobe's way of doing things.

Had a chance to try out the diff. lock? Tomorrow, weather allowing, I'll be cutting and hauling wood for chipping. We're supposed to get 3-5 inches of the white stuff on Sunday. Supposed to do that next weekend for a white Christmas. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[SevenCorners]

Rick,
I sure did, today I was cleaning up my wood splitter pile with the bucket. I decided to use just 2WD, Diff lock instead of 4WD. I first tried to scoop up a load of bark/wood chips using no dif lock. I immediately started to spin one rear tire, Didn't even get 1/2 load of material. I stopped and engaged the dif lock. I powered right through the material without a wheel spin. Big difference. It will be useful when I have the bucket pushing and the front tires off the ground. Big thanks guys for pointing this feature out to me.

 

[Ronbo]

I had my lever break at the fist bend above the threads. Nortrac sent me a new lever. While I was waiting, I welded a new bolt onto the lever. Works like a champ.

I also replaced my seat with one from TS. I had to heat my lever and bend it out slightly to clear the seat.

Ron

 

[SevenCorners]

Ron,
My seat is the worst, it is a stock Jinma seat, no hand rests really cheap. The guy I bought it from claimed it was sprung seat. I knew very little about tractors back then. I think f100panel had posted a replacement seat. Does your new one have suspension and arm rest? Any other mods needed? About how much was it?

 

[billbill1]

Seven, the 284 LE came with a spring seat with arm-rests and it's adjustable for different weights. Pretty comfortable.

Bill

 

[yugo]

seven corners, My tractor came with a no cushion, no springs - solid seat. I changed the seat over to be like a riding lawn mower; I took the front brackets and sawed them in two, lowered it an inch or so, and put a 5/16 bolt and lock nut for the front hinge, removed the back bracket, and installed a new angle iron bracket with a compression spring (that matched my weight), with a bolt through the center of the spring to keep it from going up too high, so the seat belts still work. Works great for a few hours of tinkering.

 

[Ronbo]

The seat at TS was about $89. It had a dent, no rip, so I asked for a discount. Got 10% off. It is a spring seat and has little arms. It is wide enough for me,and I am wide. The seat belts fasten to the seat. I believe Johns Tractor has an article about making it swivle. I have all the parts to do this. It also moves the seat further back. Us europeans have longer legs than the aisans.

Ron

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

Here's Johns site with mod's. John has been a life saver when it comes to helping us. Thanks, John.

http://www.johnstractor.homestead.com/SwivelSpringSeat.html

 

[JerryG]

<font color="blue"> Here's Johns site with mod's. John has been a life saver when it comes to helping us. Thanks, John. </font>
I look at his site quite often. even though I don't own a Chinese tractor. I enjoy Johns site. Thanks John.