stuck pin

[CoyPatton]

Thanks MT. Have already unscrewed, and even replaced the zerk fitting. Even acquired one of those grease joint rejuvenators, didn't help. If the pin is solid, I can pound it out appropriately, but didn't know if it was. Certainly seems so, but didn't want to do the wrong thing to start off. Like I said, already removed the clip and tapped some, but didn't budge. Was hoping someone could confirm it is solid and ok to hit harder. BTW, know where I could get an exploded parts list ?

If as with most Kubota’s, the zerk screws into the middle of the pin, then your pin is drilled at least partially till at leas one cross drilled hole is encountered (my guess approximately 1/2 the length of the pin. If you decided to use heavy tapping to remove the pin, I suggest you have a replacement in hand as damage is likely.
You indicated you have removed the zerk and even replaced the zerk. Did you use any cleaning product to try to get old grease out/loosened?
One trick to try would be to relieve hydraulic on that cylinder/pin and see it it will accept grease. Try with tractor not running to lower the stabilizer. Light contact with the ground would be best I think. Without power just relief if the stabilizer wants to bind, you have an issue. At that point replacement of the pin is required in my opinion. At that point, I would drill the pin and then drive it out.

 

[rScotty]

With mechanical things we usually start by figuring out why it happened, and then see if that helps figure out a way to fix it.

For pins & zerks, a good guess is incompatible grease hardened like concrete, expanded to take up all the clearance, and as it hardened it stuck to imperfections on both pin and bushing..... and so the pin doesn't want to move.

An incompatible grease mix that hardens does so as a chemical change. Adding oil to a that sort of hardened grease joint is like adding water to try to get a hardened concrete anchor to let go of a fence post..... ....water or oil won't hurt, but won't help much either.

You could drill all the way through the pin and put a zerk on both ends.... probably won't help - but will occupy some time.

You could arc weld a handle onto the pin that is long enough to break the hardened grease and rotate that pin even if it is concreted in. That plus enough heat on the outside just might do it. & then some paint repair.

And of course beating on anything will eventually work. But after it does, repainting an heated area will be looking like a much better deal than dealing with hammer damage.

rScotty

 

[panamaguy]

2019 BX25D. During last greasing operation, I could not get grease in the top joint of the outrigger. The arrow points at it. I took the C clip off, thinking the pic would come out, but light tapping got nowheres. Before I hit it hard, I need to know if it is solid and OK to hit hard. Wish I had an exploded view parts document, but don't.
Zerk fitting is on the otherside.


View attachment 839064

If you are going to use heat extend the rod out as this gets the piston away from that end. Next the heat has to be fast so it does not soak into the pin. A cutting torch is what you would use as tip temp on a neutral flame is 6000 degrees. Have help and as you start heating have a friend tapping. Once you start with heat you need to finish as anything you heat will be a bit smaller when it cools, thus the bushing will be even tighter on the pin if you do not get it out. Have a garden hose handy in case the cyl gets warm or a small fire starts. Big heat fast is the only way. I have been a welder since finishing high school, now 70 yrs old

 

[WranglerX]

Might try clearing hole in pin by taking small drill bit that will clear the threads and maybe hand twist it to get to bottom of drilling in pin, it may remove hardened grease in "channel" in pin....

 

[dougtrr2]

I do believe in keeping my equipment maintained. But before I would go to a lot of effort, step back and look at the function and use of that pin. It is an outrigger. You put it down and it doesn't move. If it were a pivot pin that is in constant motion and stress I would get concerned. On this pin, not so much.

I have been down those rabbit holes. Spending an inordinate amount of time to "fix" something that really doesn't matter that much.

Doug in SW IA

 

[dbritt]

I recently purchased a Kubota M9000 from my neighbor, who had bought it from me with my farm 3 years ago. He bought a new 105hp Kubota, so I bought it back from him for about half what I had sold it to him for. I bought it new in 2003 and maintained it rigorously for 17 years. Apparently he didn't maintain it at all. It had just 200 more hours in it than it had when I sold it. I started doing maintenance as soon as I got it home and in the shop. NONE of the grease fittings on the loader would take grease. There are about 12 pins total. I tried everything, every tool, every trick, nothing worked. Finally I soaked them all with penetrating oil 2 or 3 times a day, every day for a week or more. Then I drove the pins out one at a time, cleaned out the passage down through the middle of the pin, cleaned them up with the wire wheel on my grinder, cleaned out the pin holes, and put it all back together. The old grease was so hard I would have never gotten it softened with heat or any kind of solvent. I was amazed how much 3 years of no grease could do. I used a 3lb hammer and a large drift punch about 2/3 the size of the pins to drive them out. Some took a LOT of force to get out, but all of them eventually came out. On mine, the ends of the pins were chamfered and mushrooming was not a problem. Those pins are HARD and I'm not sure I could have mushroomed them anyway without bending the punch first. If that pin is frozen in the hole on the cylinder, you may have too much surface contact area rusted to be able to get it out this way, but I was able to get 2 of mine out that were that way. I wouldn't worry too much about using as much force as you can generate with a hammer. Of course, your mileage may vary.

I also have to agree with dougtrr2 that you might just want to leave it alone. The loader bucket pins are one thing, an outrigger is a whole different application.

 

[Trackerjoe]

Most likely one of two things has happene. Either the pin has become bound to the cylinder rod bore, and or this has allowed the rod to turn in the stab leg wearing a notch in the pin. I always hate hammering on a pin, if you mushroom the end, it’s not going back through the hole. Before getting carried away, get a good high power heat gun and or a hand torch and heat the pin from both sides and see if that loosens the harder grease any, and that itself may allow the pin to move. If all else fails, I have had to saw out the pin and then get the cylinder in a press to get the piece out. FYI Messicks has an easy to use parts book system for Kubota

the pin will be drilled halfway down from the filling hole to the middl, then cross drilled to get grease to the rod

View attachment 839074

Careful though. Looks like when that pin does come out the outrigger is going to drop. .

 

[boatmoter]

2019 BX25D. During last greasing operation, I could not get grease in the top joint of the outrigger. The arrow points at it. I took the C clip off, thinking the pic would come out, but light tapping got nowheres. Before I hit it hard, I need to know if it is solid and OK to hit hard. Wish I had an exploded view parts document, but don't.
Zerk fitting is on the otherside.


View attachment 839064

https://www.amazon.com/Original-Grease-penetrating-hydraulic-pressure/dp/B01CYMY7ZA/ref=sr_1_16?crid=466XC2CIU5NA&keywords=stuck+grease+fittings&qid=1706709815&sprefix=stuck+grease+fittings%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-16

 

[ttouring]

2019 BX25D. During last greasing operation, I could not get grease in the top joint of the outrigger. The arrow points at it. I took the C clip off, thinking the pic would come out, but light tapping got nowheres. Before I hit it hard, I need to know if it is solid and OK to hit hard. Wish I had an exploded view parts document, but don't.
Zerk fitting is on the otherside.


View attachment 839064

Maybe a heavy equipment shop might be able to use a track pin remover like on a dozier. Doesn't hurt to ask . Caterpillar makes such a tool that has tremendous power.

 

[DieselBound]

If there's a zerk then there's a way to get some penetrating fluid inside. I'd just keep forcing penetrating fluid in: eventually it'll work. Not that this alone will do the job but it'll be one "tool" to apply. I've had to do this (yeah, on a Kubota).