Stuck PTO shaft

[keljan11]

Hey all. I've acquired a used PZ 2000 belt haymaker rake. I've replaced a couple of connection rods, so all turns freely. Working on the PTO shaft, the telescoping shaft is frozen (with rust I'm sure). I've tried penetrating oil, heat, put a piece of pipe through the u-joint and hammered on the pipe. Short of chaining the rake to a tree and come-alonging the shaft, are there any better suggestions out there??

 

[airbiscuit]

I had the same problem on a flail mower PTO shaft.
Set it up vertically, sprayed a bunch of PB blaster down it as best I could
Let it sit a couple of days
Chained one end to a tree
Hooked a come a long onto the other end and but some tension on it
Tapped a few times with a hammer
It Flew Off!

 

[keljan11]

I had the same problem on a flail mower PTO shaft.
Set it up vertically, sprayed a bunch of PB blaster down it as best I could
Let it sit a couple of days
Chained one end to a tree
Hooked a come a long onto the other end and but some tension on it
Tapped a few times with a hammer
It Flew Off!

So I hooked the rake to my tractor with a chain. I then put a 4 ft 1" sling through the PTO shaft connector, used a 1 ton cable come along to a chain attached to my pick up. (I previously soaked it penetrating oil 2 days ago). I've been beating it with a 4 lb hammer, no go so far. The next thing will be heat, and then the hammer.

 

[Diggin It]

So I hooked the rake to my tractor with a chain. I then put a 4 ft 1" sling through the PTO shaft connector, used a 1 ton cable come along to a chain attached to my pick up.

Be EXTREMELY careful. A guy just died doing something similar when his tractor overturned on him

 

[keljan11]

Hi diggin it,
I'd read the post you are referring to. That's why I chained the back to the bucket of my tractor, and used a come along in between my pickup using a nylon sling to absorb any sudden shock from the hammers.
Reading the post about the other gentleman made me think about safety aspects.

 

[airbiscuit]

Now as I recall, I rubber banded a plastic bag around the PTO Shaft, and sprayed enough PB Blaster on it so it had a little reservoir and could soak down. Then I put a 1" nylon strap through the yoke so the pull would be as straight as possible. The oil and the tap tap tap did it - not mega force on the come a long. It simply may take repeated efforts. Find a way to get that penetrating oil down the shaft.

 

[keljan11]

Now as I recall, I rubber banded a plastic bag around the PTO Shaft, and sprayed enough PB Blaster on it so it had a little reservoir and could soak down. Then I put a 1" nylon strap through the yoke so the pull would be as straight as possible. The oil and the tap tap tap did it - not mega force on the come a long. It simply may take repeated efforts. Find a way to get that penetrating oil down the shaft.

Thanx for the suggestion (s).
Well, tried the heat, come along tension, and a "few" taps with the 4 lb hammer, to no avail.
Will try the penetrating oil in the baggie to soak. Will add more tonight if needed, and will reply with results.

 

[mjw357]

Got an air chisel with a blunt tip? Run that along the length of the steel tube, the vibration may free it.

 

[keljan11]

Got an air chisel with a blunt tip? Run that along the length of the steel tube, the vibration may free it.

Hi mjw357
Yes I have an air chisel, but it's never been used. Will try that anyways, as well. The GD thing is gonna move eventually, one way or another..... Thanx for the idea.
So far, soaking with penetrating oil/come alongs/ heat/ tapping with hammers/heat to draw the penetrating oil down the shaft, haven't worked (yet).
Now I'm getting teed off and it's gonna move

 

[jaxs]

Be carful about pulling while shaft is connected to tractor or implement. Those bearings aren't desighned for lateral stress. I like to hang shaft with weight on it 24/7 while soaking with penetrating oil. Picking rear of truck or front of tractor up with come-a-long is an easy way of applying weight.

 

[powerscol]

Do you have a high lift jack? Set the base against the unit and sling the end and jack away. However if it is that stuck, save your effort and buy a new one. Probably safer.

 

[Birdhunter1]

Hi diggin it,
I'd read the post you are referring to. That's why I chained the back to the bucket of my tractor, and used a come along in between my pickup using a nylon sling to absorb any sudden shock from the hammers.
Reading the post about the other gentleman made me think about safety aspects.

The nylon sling is absorbing the shock that you need to go into the shaft parts to break them free.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

On this site, it's OK to hook your tractor to a stump and pull away! You can hook to ANYTHING that's stuck and pull away! What they will tell you though, DON'T hook to a PTO shaft!! THAT will tip your tractor over!!

Well, that's EXACTLY what "I" do,

and it works every time! Notice that I don't pull on the U-joints though, and I DO soak the shafts for a time before I pull on them...

BTW, I've NEVER tipped a tractor over doing this, in fact, I've never even had the front end get "light", let alone lift it!

SR

 

[PILOON]

Me thinks the proper term is "Rust welded".

 

[keljan11]

Update:
Thanx for all the suggestions. SUCCESS finally!!!

I did chain the machine frame, (a PZ 2000 haymaker belt rake), to the bucket of my tractor. Then I put a chain to the ball hitch of my pickup. In between I first used a 1/4 ton come along with a 1" sling through the pto yoke. Didn't want too much torque against the yokes. Twice I tried heating the shaft after soaking it with penetrating oil. Beat on it with 16 oz. ball pean hammers, as well as a 4lb. I also tried using an air chisel. I tried using a wedge between the inside and outside shafts. Took the nylon sling out of the equation, , beat on it some more, using a 3/4 ton wire come along. Beat on it some more, using the tension of the come along. Noticed it had moved about 1/2". Kept at it, beating and cranking. It fought me all the way out. (I think birdhunter was right, the nylon sling was absorbing the needed shock).

But it's apart. Now to clean the shafts. Wish I had the bead blaster I used at work.

 

[jaxs]

Update:
Thanx for all the suggestions. SUCCESS finally!!!

I did chain the machine frame, (a PZ 2000 haymaker belt rake), to the bucket of my tractor. Then I put a chain to the ball hitch of my pickup. In between I first used a 1/4 ton come along with a 1" sling through the pto yoke. Didn't want too much torque against the yokes. Twice I tried heating the shaft after soaking it with penetrating oil. Beat on it with 16 oz. ball pean hammers, as well as a 4lb. I also tried using an air chisel. I tried using a wedge between the inside and outside shafts. Took the nylon sling out of the equation, , beat on it some more, using a 3/4 ton wire come along. Beat on it some more, using the tension of the come along. Noticed it had moved about 1/2". Kept at it, beating and cranking. It fought me all the way out.

But it's apart. Now to clean the shafts. Wish I had the bead blaster I used at work.

:drink::cool2::applause: Alright !

Now,tell the truth. In addition to what you say above that you did,was there any :banghead: or :hissyfit: how bout :duh:?

 

[searcyfarms]

i use a wire wheel on my angle grinder or bench grinder to clean the rusty shafts up, works like a charm!!!

 

[keljan11]

i use a wire wheel on my angle grinder or bench grinder to clean the rusty shafts up, works like a charm!!!

That was the plan for the internal shaft, my concerns are inside the external shaft. A toothbrush wire brush is only 8" long, and am guessing the rust buildup will be a little further inside.

As for jaxs' comment, ummmmm...... Well, the cloud around me was a little blue. The wife decided to stay clear, but my dog, who I think enjoys hearing all the cuss words, hung around me till the end.

 

[jaxs]

:laughing: :dog:

If the internal shaft is hollow triangular tube and external is same shape with 1/8" wall,the rust will indeed go all the way through.
BUT,if internal shaft is square/rectangular solid bar,the slip fit only go's 6"-8" in and all that require's cleaning.

 

[keljan11]

:laughing: :dog:

If the internal shaft is hollow triangular tube and external is same shape with 1/8" wall,the rust will indeed go all the way through.
BUT,if internal shaft is square/rectangular solid bar,the slip fit only go's 6"-8" in and all that require's cleaning.

It looks like this: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/...dQ8tyrma8GTp0M6LP2E9gqcT5K9mCxXoeJEQV_A2yEJPw

Guessing it's all the way through. Will just try cleaning the internal shaft, lube it with penitrating oil, and slide it back and forth again and again, until it slides back and forth easily, without too much effort, and keep living it up with the penetrating oil. I've also made up a batch of 50/50 ATF and acetone to use as penetrating oil