Stuck yanmar 165D

[pmsmechanic]

Honestly if it was me I would be looking at splitting the tractor. The top end and bottom end look really good from the pictures you sent. The flywheel area looks very corroded. I would be concentrating my efforts in that area.

And since you have enough smarts to remove the head you can easily split a small tractor like that. Unless it's really in the road I wouldn't even remove the fel. Just a jack stand under each fel mount and a floor jack from the rear under the transmission and you could easily roll the rear end away from the engine. If you don't have a concrete floor a sheet of steel or plywood under the floor jack would be sufficient.

All the best as I'm finding this thread really interesting.

 

[LouNY]

That is exactly what I have

Then as mentioned get that chain couple removed and the try rolling the engine over with the front pump disconnected.

 

[millard762]

Sure it would..... once it dissolved some carbon or crud so that the mix could flow through the ring end gaps. If the gaps were as open as stock, a shotglass of your mixwould flow right through in a few minutes, Except for the amount of mix that formed a boundary layer due to close clearances. That boundary layer of your mix is all you can expect to remain, and is all that is doing the work. because of the xylene (I use acetone sometimes) the mix degrades - evaporates - too quickly, Renew it daily or even more often..

One of the critical things you do when installing rings is setting the proper end gaps on the rings. The ring end gap has to be close enough so that it seals well enough to develop enough compression to start a diesel, but not so close that heat expansion will cause the gap to close completely and scar the cylinder bore. And they are generally set 180 degrees (rotation) in opposition to each other.

Re: the lower end rod bearings. We will get to those in a bit. But I am not yet satisfied the engine is free of end constraints. We have to disconnect the hydraulic pump on the front, and the transmission on the back.
Put it in neutral and see if the PTO shaft turns. A PTO shaft problem combined with a frozen clutch could certainly cause these exact problems. The frozen clutch means that any transmission malfunction also locks the motor. Have you put it in neutral and not in 4wd while raising both rear tires off the ground & tried to rotate the engine via the front crankshaft nut?
Consider taking off the shifter cover and have a look around,

If this were 40 years ago I would say take it to a shop. But unless you personally know an old stye gentle and educated experienced mechanic who hasn't retired, lets first try some easy things at home.

Gotta go do some work today....
rScotty

When I put trans into neutral and the pto in neutral, the pto will spin both ways. When I put pto into hi or low, it will spin clockwise only.

 

[ponytug]

When I put trans into neutral and the pto in neutral, the pto will spin both ways. When I put pto into hi or low, it will spin clockwise only.

Isn't that the effect of an internal overrun clutch on the PTO?

I'm not seeing anything inconsistent with a frozen clutch plate or clutch assembly, supported by the photos that you posted.

All the best,

Peter

 

[careyo63]

I see now and agree! Remove the chain on the front pump shaft and see if it turns over? My guess the Aux. pump Itself might be the culprit! It maybe stuck? be a good one.

 

[California]

When I put trans into neutral and the pto in neutral, the pto will spin both ways. When I put pto into hi or low, it will spin clockwise only.

Isn't that the effect of an internal overrun clutch on the PTO?

Yes.

 

[rScotty]

Honestly if it was me I would be looking at splitting the tractor. The top end and bottom end look really good from the pictures you sent. The flywheel area looks very corroded. I would be concentrating my efforts in that area.

And since you have enough smarts to remove the head you can easily split a small tractor like that. Unless it's really in the road I wouldn't even remove the fel. Just a jack stand under each fel mount and a floor jack from the rear under the transmission and you could easily roll the rear end away from the engine. If you don't have a concrete floor a sheet of steel or plywood under the floor jack would be sufficient.

All the best as I'm finding this thread really interesting.

I think he is trying to get it to turn over so he can start it up and evaluate what he has. It is in very nice external condition.

Plus, there is always a chance - rather low, but at least a chance - that a stuck clutch can be freed up.

But all in all, I agree with you. Most likely a split is in this tractor's future. If it were to run or at least turn over that would make it much more appealing if it does have to go away for a clutch.

Question: If the engine is stuck, and so is the clutch plate...what do you think about the brakes? Or the FEL hydraulic cylinders? What about the 3pt hitch cylinder and piston?

Still, I bet everyone here hopes to someday find one like it in a neighbor's garage.....
And what mechanic could ask for something better than a project like that?

rScotty

 

[millard762]

I think tomorrow after I get up, I'm going to tackle the hydro pump couplers and get it off so I can rotate or try to rotate crank from the pulley. Honestly, I hope that does it and I hope the issue was with the hydro pump

 

[rScotty]

When I put trans into neutral and the pto in neutral, the pto will spin both ways. When I put pto into hi or low, it will spin clockwise only.

Isn't that the effect of an internal overrun clutch on the PTO?

Yes.

Yes.

And just to confirm, the YM165 parts diagram shows a spring-loaded overrunning PTO clutch. i.e. a one-way clutch.
So that behavior of the PTO shaft on millard's 165 seems normal. That's good. I had worried about the PTO.
So that lessens the need to take off the transmisson top cover and poke around. Probably not anything there to help,
In my mind that puts the engine back up to prime culprit.
rScotty

 

[rScotty]

I think tomorrow after I get up, I'm going to tackle the hydro pump couplers and get it off so I can rotate or try to rotate crank from the pulley. Honestly, I hope that does it and I hope the issue was with the hydro pump

You might consider leaving the hydraulic pump coupler just as it is - ignore my previous advice to disconnect it. The reason being that that coupler with the pump at the far end makes a well-supported place to try to rotate the engine. And it is simple.

If you have a strap wrench, you can wrap the strap right around that chain coupler, put a four foot cheater pipe onto the handle of the strap wrench, and have at it. A strap wrench with a strap made of a THICK piece of woven flat fabric would be my choice.

I believe that the running rotation of the engine is clockwise if you stand in front of the tractor and look at the front of the engine. Someone with a YM135/155/165 please check on that.....
rScotty