Stump Cutter Reversal

J_J · Sep 23, 2005

I am not sure how fast my 1445 is. I think I am the only one with a 45 hp gas engine, and my tires are 26X12X12. I would guess about 8 to 10 mph.

Some have put wooden blocks under the treadle to limit speed, and can be removed at any time for transport.

menchhofer · Sep 24, 2005

Regular stump grinding machines grind stumps using the weight of the machine, the weight and momentum of the cutter wheel, hydraulic downward pressure applied and the weight of the "head" or what the wheel is attached to. The cutter wheel spins clockwise.

The stump grinder attachment for the Pt is a very poor imitation of an actual stump grinder. But it does seem to work for small stumps.

Professional grinding is accomplished by making contact with the stump with the lower one-half of the front of the spinning wheel. The cutter is then swung back and forth side to side several times and on the next pass the wheel is lowered about an inch. The side to side movement is repeated several times and again the wheel is lowered. This procedure is repeated until the proper depth is reached. Then the wheel is moved up, moved forward to the remaining stump and the procedure is repeated time and time again until the stump is removed. This method creates a spoil pile behind the wheel and helps retain the chips.

Stumps are almost never ground from the top down except in some circumstances for the chips usually fly everywhere.

Stump grinding teeth must always be sharp. Dull teeth put immense pressure and strain on all parts of the machine.

Marks481 · Sep 25, 2005

( Regular stump grinding machines grind stumps using the weight of the machine, the weight and momentum of the cutter wheel, hydraulic downward pressure applied and the weight of the "head" or what the wheel is attached to. The cutter wheel spins clockwise.)

So in what way does the PT as a stump grinder NOT do all these things?

I amguessing that by "spins clockwise" you mean that as you stand to the right of the wheel, it spins clockwise, pushing debris behind it as it cuts.

Spiffy · Sep 25, 2005

OK, back with my report as promised:

These were about 3 weeks old instead of 3 years; I was much more pleased with the performance than on the older stumps, but the pair still took me about an hour (actually about 20min per 18" inch stump and another 20 chasing all the surface roots on the second one). Also, I told him that I'd charge by the hour, so he re-cut them about an inch above ground; helping immensly in exposing fresh wood and reducing a lot of volume.

I had the best results starting at the far end and about equal whether I worked left-right or back and forth. I brought a welding helmet with a clear lens and truely appreciated it! When I cut the roots, I litterally filled the inside of my front end with dirt, including burying the battery.

The 2445 is of course 45HP and the cutter I have is about 22 maybe 24" welded teeth with permanent carbide inserts (I presume about like JJ's); so the 4XX atachment may or may not compare:

So, while perhaps slightly pesimistic, Menchhofer was right about PT leaving much room for improvement. Most cutters I've seen run the wheel away from the machine, and have a drag curtain on the far side stopping the chips with direct force from finding bystanders. This allows the optimal view of your work; and less chips to eat. They also have removeable teeth (I will credit PT for some high quality carbide on this one), so you can always be sharp and pay little shipping if you need refacing.

The teeth on mine are still rather sharp but could be better; anytime I hit a tough spot, it sends unwelcome [my concern for machine life more than my comfort] vibe's through the entire machine. Finally, these articulated machines are supposed to best skid-steers in turf damage. On stump cutters, the skid-steer and dedicated [and I see 3pt too] units combat this by adding a swivel cylinder to cutter. If PT did this (of course, my 2002 has the spare hydraulics) it's easily be on top, no damage coming in or doing the job. Even with out the spare hydraulics one could put quick connects on the lock cylinder: lock the atachment, then have hydraulics to use for swinging it.

I'm not planning on stumps being the "bread and butter" for this machine, but still really thinking about building the stump cutter from scratch [maybe reusing the motor, but could be a bit torquier for the XX45] as I think I could get a better cut and less vibrations without too much expense. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

menchhofer · Sep 25, 2005

Don't get me wrong here, the PT grinder is probably fine on small stumps as I mentioned. But I would question the constant vibration strain on all the components.

Perhaps the most important aspect of a stump grinder is the weight and thickness of the wheel (and sharp teeth). This, along with the hydraulics, helps keep the grinder wheel from jumping around and keeping it in place as it grinds.

From a professional standpoint, the PT grinder is fine for the average homeowner and occassional stump. But, it must be well maintained to work properly and be prepared to spend some time on your project. In other words, it is a light duty attachment.

When I purchased my 1430 3 years ago I took time to look at the grinder. Thought it might be a usable accessory for use in my tree care business. Not even close. But again, I was looking from an commercial angle. And grinding back and forth hundreds of times on a stump articulating back and forth? NOt the best arrangement.

PT attachments are like other manufacturer add ons.. Some work extremely well, others are nothing exciting. Others, are totally useless.

I am sure though, it would make a nice trencher.

Not attempting to be pessimistic here, just trying to provide info as to how a actual grinder works.

With regards to changing the wheel direction, I think I would advise against that notion. If any of the teeth or pcs of teeth would become detached (as they sometimes do), it could come right back to the operator, unless they have installed a guard or other safety device.

RegL · Sep 25, 2005

( I hang a piece of wood from my arm cross piece. It stops a lot of wood chips.

Bob Rip )

I hung an old window screen from my rops the last time I ground stumps and it did a good job of keeping chips out of my face.

Spiffy · Sep 29, 2005

Actually, I'm not seeing trouble with the size so much as the age since cut. Green: not too bad; 1 to 3 years: nasty!!! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Old and rotten: no problem. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Regardless, I'm not looking to do too many until I have a different configuration [direction, oscillation, and vibe absorbing].

IMHO, in & of itself, the cutter is built to take professional use [sure wish mine had replaceable teeth though], but they didn't consider the abuse it's transferring to the tractor and operator. And as you mentioned: the back and forth motion negates the advantage the PT has on a lawn.

By irony, the way the shield is located on mine, I'm positive it would be safer (to me not bystanders) if I reversed it.

Spiffy · Sep 29, 2005

I hung an old window screen from my rops the last time I ground stumps and it did a good job of keeping chips out of my face. 

That sure beats a welding helmet!!! Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Beechwood · Nov 3, 2005

My solution for not eating wood chips for lunch. Reverse the cutter and flow then bolt on a $12.00 off the shelf 7"x20" Galv. trailer fender to the OEM bracket.