Stump Removal

[KentT]

Bob,

Based on my 425 experience, I think you'll have limited success with a "grubbing bucket" approach, for two reasons:

1. Limited torque, traction and weight to push the bucket into the ground around the stump...

2. Limited breakout force/weight on the back end of the tractor -- the lift arms are stronger than the tractor weighs, lifting the rear of the PT off the ground. Even if you could keep the PT on the ground, I question how much breakout force you'll get from a machine rated to lift only 800 lbs. I'm not sure it's enough to rip stumps out...

As an example, if the ground is damp, I can pull 2" saplings with my minihoe and thumb but that's about the upper limit. Quite often, the rear of the machine will start to lift, and I'll back off on the hydraulics a bit, then either drive forward or back, and the combination of pulling up on the sapling and moving the tractor will break it loose...

I've also found it helpful to curl the QA so that the minihoe is in close to the PT, so the lift isn't decreased by the length of "lever" but is pulling as straight up as possible...

I just don't think the PT 422/425 class machines are "massive" enough to do a whole lot of stumping type work... JMHO...

 

[cqaigy2]

Bob,

Based on my 425 experience, I think you'll have limited success with a "grubbing bucket" approach, for two reasons:

I know i've tried chaining and pulling straight up as close to the PT as i can get and have the same results as KentT.

I think for such small machines we'd need something that acts like a lever to multiply the upward pressure of what ever is attached to the tree.

I'm thinking you could make the jaws so that they tighten on the tree as pressure is applied and sits on the small end of a lever that uses the ground as a fulcrum and the long end attached to the PT with a joint so that you could drive backwards to applied the pressure or downward pressure with the arms and that would cause the tree side to lift.

 

[BobRip]

I know i've tried chaining and pulling straight up as close to the PT as i can get and have the same results as KentT.

I think for such small machines we'd need something that acts like a lever to multiply the upward pressure of what ever is attached to the tree.

I'm thinking you could make the jaws so that they tighten on the tree as pressure is applied and sits on the small end of a lever that uses the ground as a fulcrum and the long end attached to the PT with a joint so that you could drive backwards to applied the pressure or downward pressure with the arms and that would cause the tree side to lift.

When using the 4 in 1 bucket. I can grap a 4 inch or slightly larger stump in wet soil and lift while wiggling back and forth and left and right. The lift and wiggling together is what does it. They come out pretty easily.

Perhaps you could add something to grap the stump, like chain connection points.

The lever action sounds good. You could increase the force by at least a factor of 4. That's 3200 pounds. A long lever with a plate near one end. The plate would rest on the ground. A tooth from a tooth bar could be forced into the stump and the PT could push down on the long end.

 

[J_J]

Bob, It is a well known fact that if you can wet or soak the ground around a tree or stump, it will come out more easily.

 

[BobRip]

My thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions. If you make something along these lines, please post some pictures. More suggestions would also be appreciated.

 

[Rivco]

If you can flood or soak the finger roots then you could use your stump grinder to sever the finger roots . It's the tap root that you have to deal with ....and that might be a problem depending on the size!! Stump grinders can be used for a lot more than just stump grinding.

 

[BobRip]

If you can flood or soak the finger roots then you could use your stump grinder to sever the finger roots . It's the tap root that you have to deal with ....and that might be a problem depending on the size!! Stump grinders can be used for a lot more than just stump grinding.

I used the minihoe and the stump grinder on the roots. Yes, the tap root gave us the most problems. I could not get to it, but eventually it broke from the cable up 20 feet on the tree and tied to a hi-lift jack at the base of another tree. We did not add water, but probably should have. The ground was very dry.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have a stump bucket that I have used on a 7520 but do not find it useful. The problem is the narrow mouth that then tapers up from the bottom of the bucket and out to the backplate. The bucket essentially forms a solid wedge that pushes the bucket up as it trys to penetrate. It is also extremely hard to drive into the earth because the narrow mouth will not allow enuf dirt in. I am going to cut mine apart and put it back together with much less taper.
larry

 

[woodlandfarms]

I have a stump bucket that I have used on a 7520 but do not find it useful. The problem is the narrow mouth that then tapers up from the bottom of the bucket and out to the backplate. The bucket essentially forms a solid wedge that pushes the bucket up as it trys to penetrate. It is also extremely hard to drive into the earth because the narrow mouth will not allow enuf dirt in. I am going to cut mine apart and put it back together with much less taper.
larry

That is one of the reasons I built mine the way I did....

 

[SPYDERLK]

That is one of the reasons I built mine the way I did....

Yes, yours is much better. The design does not inherently thwart penetration. Our requirements are different tho, because I would be using mine to dig around and fell trees up to a couple feet dia. Stumps are much easier to get out with tree attached. I have to figure something out to stay away from that proud pointy tip. It would bend on me.
larry