Stupid Girl Questions: 4500 Truck Edition

[piaffepony]

Take a look at RockAuto . You dont have to deal with sales people, just navigate through a fairly simple menu and pick out your own parts. I order from them some and have always been satisfied with their website and prompt shipping. Just FYI, the only stupid question is the one you didn't ask

2012 RAM 4500 6.7L L6 DIESEL Turbocharged Oil Filter | RockAuto


Another tip, you can find a "how to" video for almost anything you want to do on youtube.

Yeah I saw that. After my skid steer service manual AND owner's manual were saying the chain case took a different oil than the gearboxes (I confirmed with 3 different skid mechanics that the manuals are wrong) and that there are few things that vary slightly from year to year that the manuals don't change.. I'm super paranoid now that all info matches because I don't know enough to catch subtle differences. Another example.. they gave me the wrong alternator belt and now I know why it was wrong.

Google and YouTube are my life lines! It's the only reason I've made it as far as I have. I have soooooo much on my plate and anything I can do to cut down my research time is such a blessing. I haven't had a day off in 6 weeks! It takes me so long to do anything because I have to learn how to do it first.

 

[TimberHole]

Credit to you for doing your own maintenance! While it's great to get things done fast there is no substitute for doing it right. Unfortunately that usually involves doing ample research on machines you are not familiar with. Don't think you are alone in this regard. I usually spend an hour or more each day doing research and several hours in the shop doing maintenance. Because of this attention to detail most of my old equipment is in pretty decent shape and much of it is stuff that was free because someone else was going to throw it away. Hang in there!

 

[Larry Caldwell]

A spin off from my other truck thread. After spending $700 on 2 new tires and $200 on an alignment...my "change your oil" message pops up. Ugh..... I knew I was going to have to do the regular maintenance stuff fairly soon but after doing all the pain in the azz 1000 hour change every possible fluid, filter, hose, belt crap... (another $500 later) I was hoping to put it off a lil bit longer.

I asked the shop soon my alignment how much for an oil change and filters.. $250. Obviously that doesn't even include all the other "or 60 months" maintenance crap that needs to be done. Looks like I'll be doing it myself once again.

I get my manual out, jot down all the fluid/filter types and start googling to see how much it's going to cost me now. I'm just now realizing that this isn't like ordering stuff for the tractor or skid steer where you have an exact part number and tada! Click. Buy. Done. With trucks there's a whole lot more options available and I KNOW NOTHING about the pro's and con's and applications of these "options".

I live in north Texas and put 5,000 miles on my truck a year. 1/2 of those are what I would consider loaded or pulling something heavy. Do I really need to spend twice as much on the synthetic oil?

Also, manual says stuff like "Mopar engine oil filter or equivalent". I type that stuff in and it comes back with all sorts of different sized filters in various price ranges. When I try to use their make/model finder tools, most of them don't recognize anything over a 4500 even if they carry it.

I'm lost!! (Stop laughing.) Can someone point me in the right direction? Recommend brands? What to invest more on and what I can save on? Is there an app for this? My other diesels have 2 fuel filters... the truck only has one right? Am I reading correctly that it has a self cleaning type air filter? Or do I need to buy one of those too like in my skid? Any other tips, tricks or helpful information you'd like to share for a first timer? Again, I've managed to do the maintenance on my skid, tractor, gator with very minimal help from the men folk so I'm not completely inept.

Thanks guys!

For farm purposes, NAPA is your friend. They will have filters for everything and sell quality parts. They can also make up hydraulic hoses, etc. for your skid steer and other equipment, provide belts, whatever. Don't expect the person at the counter to know everything, but they can usually find it out. Their customer base is farmers and ranchers, and they know it.

Synthetic engine oil is only necessary if starting in sub-zero temperatures, but full synthetic is a must in gearboxes, like the differential. Your engine has a cooling system, but gearboxes do not. Running under load at freeway speeds they reach temperatures that will fry dino oil, but synthetics are more temperature stable. Good old Shell Rotella-T is as good for engines as any, but Mobil manufactures Delvac and Chevron makes Delo 400. 15w-40 is the typical diesel weight. The synthetic 5w-40 is for arctic conditions. You can buy diesel motor oil at Wal-Mart. When people ask me what the best oil is, I tell them new oil. Never skip an oil change interval. It should cost you a fraction of that $250; more like $50. When you do a flush and fill on the differential, spring for the synthetic version of what is recommended in the manual.

I know nothing about your fuel filters. There is no such thing as a self-cleaning air filter, but you may have a 2-stage air filter with an outer filter that catches most stuff and can be cleaned, but an inner filter that needs to be periodically replaced. Just pop the cover off and look at it. This is not rocket science. NAPA can sell you replacement air filters.

I assume you have an automatic transmission. Keep an eye on the fluid, and change it when it starts to discolor. It has an indicator dye. Do a comparison with fresh transmission fluid, because the first color changes can be subtle. If you wait until the fluid turns brown, you are over halfway to wrecking your transmission. If you have a transmission temperature gauge, keep an eye on it. You do not want to overheat an automatic transmission. When in doubt, downshift. Lower transmission gears push more fluid through the cooler and save the transmission. It shouldn't be possible to lug a diesel with an automatic transmission, but inexperienced drivers used to blow the injectors out of diesels by lugging the engine. Keep the RPMs up.

If your truck is not too old, you may be able to get shop and parts manuals for it. I always buy shop manuals for all new equipment, and parts manuals are worth their weight in gold because they have exploded drawings with every little piece labeled. Manufacturers typically do a very limited print run, so they are hard to get once something is out of production. You may be able to get the manuals on CD.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

As stated, Shell Rotella 15-40 is very good oil for diesels. Just check the trash cans at most truck stops for the empty's!
And priced great at Walmart.
Worked on, drove semi's for over 30 years and never used synthetic oil.
NAPA is also a good suggestion and if you have a business then set up a business account for better discounts. Ask for them too.

I forgot about the farm/business accounts at NAPA. Excellent suggestion. As for the counter jockeys at parts store, let me give you a magic phrase that will resolve the problem:

Get out of my face and let me talk to someone who is not an idiot. The louder you say that, the better it works.

 

[Egon]

For fuel and oil filters you can take the numbers of the ones on your truck. Both those and the oil change are not difficult. ( drain pan, filter wrench & funnel ). & Dirty Hands. Pulling the oil pan plug is always interesting when oil starts running down your arm.

Greasing is easily doable but may require turning the front tire's for access to the zerks. Driveline u-joints may require the drive shaft to rotate to a new position.

Transmission oil & differential oil is best left to a shop. They have proper equipment to remove the transmission oil.

NAPA or other such stores are always good for advice. Just have the VIN and such information for them to work with.

Setting up a log book also helps keep track of what was done and when something should be done.

 

[kf4uda]

If you don't already have it, here is something that can help you with your NH equipment: Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors. - My Shed App

I use this app all of the time. It has part listings and detailed drawings.

John Deere probably has something similar.

 

[LouNY]

Is your truck a diesel?
from the diesel supplement manual from RAM,

"FLUIDS, LUBRICANTS AND GENUINE PARTS
Engine
Component Fluid, Lubricant, or Genuine Part
Engine Coolant We recommend you use MOPAR Antifreeze/Coolant 10 Year/150,000 Mile Formula OAT
(Organic Additive Technology).
Engine Oil In ambient temperatures above 0°F (-18°C), we recommend you use 15W-40 engine oil such
as MOPAR, Shell Rotella and Shell Rimula that meets FCA US Material Standard MS-10902
and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required. Products meeting Cummins CES 20081
may also be used. The identification of these engine oils is typically located on the back of
the oil container.
In ambient temperatures below 0°F (-18°C), we recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic
engine oil such as MOPAR, Shell Rotella and Shell Rimula that meets FCA US Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required.
Engine Oil Filter We recommend you use MOPAR Engine Oil Filters.
6
MAINTAINING YOUR VEHICLE 317"

All of the posters telling you to use a non synthetic oil can get you in trouble, almost all oils meeting the MS-10902 standard are synthetic,
Shell Rotella T-6 does meet and exceed that spec.
The major reason for the changes in oil recommendations have been driven by emmission equipment, especially the DPF ( diesel particulate filter )
The incorrect oil can result in plugging the filter and voiding any warranty.

 

[newbury]

I guess I'm just leery of sales people... especially in an industry where men are notorious for taking advantage of women that don't know a whole lot. Typically before I get the answers I'm looking for, I get the whole "what's a girl like you need a truck that big for?" "Why don't you take it to blah blah to get it done?" "Why doesnt your husband do it for you?" ... "Oh your divorced? Would you like some help? I can come out there and take a look at it for you if you'll let me take you out to dinner". It gets old after a while.

I also hate to get the wrong part and have to make 8 trips when the nearest auto supply is 20 min away.

Multiple trips to get a job done is mandatory when you are learning

For fuel and oil filters you can take the numbers of the ones on your truck. Both those and the oil change are not difficult. ( drain pan, filter wrench & funnel ). & Dirty Hands. Pulling the oil pan plug is always interesting when oil starts running down your arm.

Greasing is easily doable but may require turning the front tire's for access to the zerks. Driveline u-joints may require the drive shaft to rotate to a new position.

Transmission oil & differential oil is best left to a shop. They have proper equipment to remove the transmission oil.

NAPA or other such stores are always good for advice. Just have the VIN and such information for them to work with.

Setting up a log book also helps keep track of what was done and when something should be done.

To prevent "oil starts running down your arm" get a Fumoto Valve or EZ Drain Valve , I've got a Fumoto on my F350 and it works very well. No hot dropped plugs in the waste oil can, no mess.

For greasing, and I'm assuming you grease your skid steer, get a "lock n lube" . Many threads on TBN about their use.

Transmission and differential oil depends on the vehicle I guess. On my F350 the transmission oil drain has a plug just like engine oil, but changing the filter is more of a pain. On my E350 diesel I have to drop the pan which gets messy. For differential on my F350 again it's a plug, I just stick my finger in, feel the level, add if needed.

Definitely run a log book.

/edit - also I recommend people get a Used Oil Analysis (UAO). Various firms do it, I use Blackstone Labs. It gives you a baseline on the quality of your oil. My manual recommends an oil change as frequently as every 3,000 miles. Running Rotella T6 and mainly driving interstate I found I could safely stretch that to about 20,000 miles.
Many people here will tell you to change every XXXX miles or every year. The ONLY reason you need to change oil is that it's not performing. If your UAO is good, no need to change. I could be wasting 5 oil changes (75 quarts and 5 filters) based on RECOMMENDATIONs versus facts.

/edit - and a great link for Fumoto on a Ford 6.0 diesel That must be a pain having the oil filter on top of the engine.

 

[Gary Fowler]

A few years ago I switched to Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic oil. I use is for all my motors since it is rated for gas and diesel engines. I buy the 5w-40 grade and use it in my lawnmower, motorcycle, boat, car, truck, RTV and tractors. This way I only have to buy one oil.

It meets all the OEM specs for everything but my newer car which calls for 0W-20 oil, BUT, I wont put 20W oil in nothing I run in 100F temps and we certainly don't need the 0W winter weight here in the south.

I know the reason car mfg. spec such a light weight oil, it has nothing to do with tighter tolerances in the engines as some claim. The ONLY reason is so they can claim the extra 1 mpg it may give their engines so that they can meet the Federal guidelines for gas mileage across the board for their vehicles without making expensive engine mods. They really don't care if your engine is toast at 100k or less, you can just buy a newer model from them.

I am not a high mileage driver either and I don't always change my oil every 12 months when using full synthetic. I wait till the computer tells me to change which is about 7500 miles usually and that may be 18 months or more which I am ok with even though the OEM says minimum of yearly changes. I don't do short drives nor much city traffic driving either (Bismarck has one red light) and my drives to the closest "cities" (Hot Springs-50K pop. or Arkadelphia-20K) is 20 miles so there isn't much driving that doesn't get the engine up to temp for 30 minutes. All my vehicles are parked in fully enclosed structures also so not a lot of temp. changes when not running either.
I do change my lawnmower oil yearly but nothing else.

 

[Egon]

Getting forgetfull; antifreeze - make sure, very sure you have antifreeze that is compatible to your engine. It also needs changing at specified intervals.

Transmission fluid may be drained at a plug but that usually does not drain the cooler. With proper equipment the transmission and cooler are completely flushed and filled with new fluid.