Sub Compact owners, a couple questions for you

[Robert_in_NY]

We use our BX for mowing and snowplowing, not useful for much else. I took the 3 point off when we first got it and it has never gone back on. The cover on the rear PTO has never been removed and probbaly wont until we sell it.


The ROPS on the BX comes off with 4 bolts on each side. The one on the B folds.

Aaron Z

I was just doing a rough look at the B and BX on Kubotas site and the B is around $3k more then the similar BX. I will still want to look them over in person though.

The mowers I saw at the dealer today were the T series. I didn't look them over very close because they didn't look like what I was interested in. I wish I had more time to check out the other tractors they had outside. I definitely would like to see a BX up close and get a feel for how the operators platform is set up.

 

[Don87]

Robert,

From everything you've typed so far, a zero turn is exactly what you need. You have 1 to 2 years to get your steep bank leveled some.:thumbsup:

 

[CHDinCT]

Just want to throw out there that when you see/try out a BX you really need to try one without a FEL attached. I have a BX25 and when I take the FEL and BH off, it converts to a compact, very maneuverable mowing machine. If you don't need to go larger than 54" for the deck, you could go with a BX1860, which I had before the BX25, and save some dough. If you're just going to mow with it and don't have extreme hills, I'd just remove the ROPS.

Not long ago, you could buy the BX1860 with a deck for under $10K. Don't know the current pricing. Also, for any BX, you can order them without the FEL 4-way valve, though most come in with that option since 98* of owners plan to add a FEL or front implement of some sort. I think that cuts about $400-$500 off the price. Just be sure you won't ever need it.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Robert,

From everything you've typed so far, a zero turn is exactly what you need. You have 1 to 2 years to get your steep bank leveled some.:thumbsup:

I'm definitely going to demo one. I will admit I do like the x700 series and want to see one up close now. I didn't even think about that line until multiple people in this thread recommended it. So i have reasons to stop in and visit the deere and kubota dealers as well as some of the dedicated lawn mower shops.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Just want to throw out there that when you see/try out a BX you really need to try one without a FEL attached. I have a BX25 and when I take the FEL and BH off, it converts to a compact, very maneuverable mowing machine. If you don't need to go larger than 54" for the deck, you could go with a BX1860, which I had before the BX25, and save some dough. If you're just going to mow with it and don't have extreme hills, I'd just remove the ROPS.

Not long ago, you could buy the BX1860 with a deck for under $10K. Don't know the current pricing. Also, for any BX, you can order them without the FEL 4-way valve, though most come in with that option since 98* of owners plan to add a FEL or front implement of some sort. I think that cuts about $400-$500 off the price. Just be sure you won't ever need it.

I'm positive I would never need it. I already have a 30hp and 52hp loader tractors and just picked up a mini excavator yesterday. This entire thread is for a dedicated mower where the only job/use is mowing. I'm just unfamiliar with the higher end machines and am trying to learn as much as I can ahead of time.

 

[savageactor7]

Hi Robert...just chiming in to say I like the idea of reducing your gas on hand. I think about that too.

I use to cut with our 72" woods mower and loved the 'fairway' cut it provided. Since retirement I cut with 50" CC deck, probably twice the lawn as you and it works out OK for me.

When I'm tired of wood processing or other labor intensives shores I cut grass for 20 min or so. Now all our lawn remains cut and the drudge factor is gone.

Since snow left we've been pulling logs out to process into firewood. I use to take off the 3PH mower without even thinking twice about it cause it was so easy. I only mention that to you so you wont be so quick to dismiss the ease of the 3PH mower. True the MMM will give you a slightly better grass cut but they are a bear to mount/dismount.

Consequently they may get dinged up for those quick 10 min jobs in the woods when you avoid taking them off.

Then again, it sounds like you have other tractors to do the heavy lifting. So if your not planning on going into the woods it would work out fine for you.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I have been looking at similar mowers for under the orchard trellis but have not bit the bullet just yet. My John Deere dealer has a smiliar unit available for $750 and I have been toying with the idea but am really not excited about spending too much money on it only to be disappointed with how it works. I have seen a lot of these trailed mowers bought, used once or twice then put out on the used market because the owners didn't care for them. And with the orchard trellis there are a lot of trees it will bump into so I would want to modify it a little more to be able to deflect off the trees easier.

But I would like to replace the Cub Cadet with a higher quality mower. If I do go with a trailed mower for the orchard it would not be used every mowing and only in the orchard. I don't need under the trees to look like a yard as I will use a combination of chemical weed control along with mowing. I just want to be able to maintain it better but my main concern with this thread is to learn about whats out there for a primary mower and get everyones thoughts on them.

The front 3pt was more of a joke, being that is the only way I would want a 3pt finish mower is if it was on the front of the tractor. I would have no need or use for any front mounted attachments for this machine unless it is a mowing deck. I don't even need or want a 3pt or pto on the back as I would never use it. I keep trying to think of other uses I could use this machine for and can't come up with any. It would be too small for every other task I would have and I have plenty of other tractors for those tasks anyway. I will look at the B series and have a lot of time to study all them before I am ready to buy.

I do know a full ROPS will not be a good option and I am not sure I would want a dedicated mower with any type of ROPS system. I just don't want to trim my apple trees up higher to allow it under and I also don't want to keep multiple mowers in order to mow the property. The trailed mower I referred to in the previous post is only for a small section that I currently mow. I have 7 rows of trellised apple trees that I can't mow under or around because of the way the trees were trained. All the other trees I can mow tight up to the trunk with the way I have them trimmed using my Cub Cadet.

:laughing: You keep describing the Kubota F model as what you need/want. The ROPS can be lowered for under trees and the deck is out in front of you. It can be gotten in a 4wd or you can buy my 93 hour 2wd now for about what you'll pay for a compromise machine that will never do as good of a job as the Kubota F which will be the last mower you'll ever have to buy. And it has a good seat.

 

[Don87]

:laughing: You keep describing the Kubota F model as what you need/want. The ROPS can be lowered for under trees and the deck is out in front of you. It can be gotten in a 4wd or you can buy my 93 hour 2wd now for about what you'll pay for a compromise machine that will never do as good of a job as the Kubota F which will be the last mower you'll ever have to buy. And it has a good seat.

If I were mowing an orchard, I would choose the F series over the Z.:thumbsup:

Having the deck out front will enable a person to get between trees easily, and also allow for the 'extended reach' so that limb trimming may not be necessary at all.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

:laughing: You keep describing the Kubota F model as what you need/want. The ROPS can be lowered for under trees and the deck is out in front of you. It can be gotten in a 4wd or you can buy my 93 hour 2wd now for about what you'll pay for a compromise machine that will never do as good of a job as the Kubota F which will be the last mower you'll ever have to buy. And it has a good seat.

I admit I like the design of the f series but would want to try it out first and I'm not ready for that step just yet. If you want to bring yours over for me to try I'll be happy to give you directions :-D

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Hi Robert...just chiming in to say I like the idea of reducing your gas on hand. I think about that too.

I use to cut with our 72" woods mower and loved the 'fairway' cut it provided. Since retirement I cut with 50" CC deck, probably twice the lawn as you and it works out OK for me.

When I'm tired of wood processing or other labor intensives shores I cut grass for 20 min or so. Now all our lawn remains cut and the drudge factor is gone.

Since snow left we've been pulling logs out to process into firewood. I use to take off the 3PH mower without even thinking twice about it cause it was so easy. I only mention that to you so you wont be so quick to dismiss the ease of the 3PH mower. True the MMM will give you a slightly better grass cut but they are a bear to mount/dismount.

Consequently they may get dinged up for those quick 10 min jobs in the woods when you avoid taking them off.

Then again, it sounds like you have other tractors to do the heavy lifting. So if your not planning on going into the woods it would work out fine for you.

Unfortunately I'm unable to mow a little at a time. I have a lot to do on the farm so when i decide to make time to mow I need to do it all or else another week will pass before i get back to it :-(