Sub soiler: want to build

[Tricat360]

FLusher:

The L4400 has 45HP. Mine has 4WD and HST. I need about 16 -18 inches. What'ya think?

Jon

I've got a single leg ripper that goes to about 18" and I pull that with a 65 HP Case-IH 3230 4WD and it has it's work cut out. It's got a reasonably large foot and leaves a hole that I can put half a forearm into. Maybe 3.5" diameter. I have to add ballast to the ripper frame to get it down to full depth. After 2-3 hours, the hydraulics get too hot to be able to lift it out again, so there's a good amount of work being done, ripping at that depth.

Hope this helps.

 

[MD3]

Years ago dad decided that we needed to sub soil our fields. It was unbelievable to me how much power it took to drag 3 shanks about 24" deep. It did seem to help some with crop yield. It also helped with drainage. I think that things did best where we could go deep. We were always fixing,welding, and adding more weight. I would only go with 1 shank and make it strong.

 

[flusher]

FLusher:

The L4400 has 45HP. Mine has 4WD and HST. I need about 16 -18 inches. What'ya think?

Jon

You're marginal on power for ripping that deep. 45 hp is your engine hp. Your drawbar hp is probably more like 35 hp.

My neighbor uses a MF294 tractor (74 hp engine, 54 hp drawbar) and a single shank parabolic ripper to break up the hardpan down to 20-24 inches. That ripper is a real load on that 294.

Another neighbor has an L4400. Nice tractor.

 

[psient]

I've got a single leg ripper that goes to about 18" and I pull that with a 65 HP Case-IH 3230 4WD and it has it's work cut out. It's got a reasonably large foot and leaves a hole that I can put half a forearm into. Maybe 3.5" diameter. I have to add ballast to the ripper frame to get it down to full depth. After 2-3 hours, the hydraulics get too hot to be able to lift it out again, so there's a good amount of work being done, ripping at that depth.

Hope this helps.

View attachment 175683

View attachment 175684

Yeah I see what you mean. And that pasture is green. Where I'm planning to work is dry and brown clay. I think smaller/less aggressive is better in this Case (pun intended).

 

[psient]

I would only go with 1 shank and make it strong.

Works for me. I'm thinking 18" deep is enough. Does that make sense?

Maybe 1" thick CRS. Cut my parabola shape with my torch, drill a shear bolt hole. I have a tool bar that will accept the shank so I wasn't thinking a 3pt hitch configuration. Rather fashion a receiver that'll affix to the TB. Let it shear at that point. Any insights?

Jon

 

[psient]

My neighbor uses a MF294 tractor (74 hp engine, 54 hp drawbar) and a single shank parabolic ripper to break up the hardpan down to 20-24 inches. That ripper is a real load on that 294.

Seems like if you don't have enough hp, things can get really MASSEY in a real hurry (sorry, couldn't keep myself from making another pun).

I wasn't thinking of that deep although 18" might be too much. Whatever final configuration I develop (with the help of you guys) I want to end up with a useful device.

Another neighbor has an L4400. Nice tractor.

I think I'll take some pix of the area I'm thinking of ripping as well as the tool bar. If I have time I'll do that this morning and post them directly.

Thanks

 

[dieselscout80]

I wonder it a coulter in front to cut the sod would make it easier to pull?

 

[MD3]

I wonder it a coulter in front to cut the sod would make it easier to pull?

With my experience I do not think that you would notice a difference.

 

[jimgerken]

I believe that a ripper would pull much easier if made in the form of a drawbar attachment. Part of my reasoning can be explained by thinking about the way a disk pulls. 3-point disks pull hard compared to wheel (drawbar pulled) disks. The drawbar implement is more free to seek the path of less resistance compared to the 3-pt restricted motion. Also, the drawbar is completly indestructable. I can pull as hard with the drawbar as I want to and I cannot hurt the tractor (unless i overheat the transmission). I am not that sure of the three-point parts.
It's a little bit more work to put cylinder-lifted wheels on it, and a little bit more metal for the backbone and hitch, but these costs should pay back with more efficient operation.

This is a project I may get to this winter, or it may wait a little longer.

 

[G.P.S.Investments]

something I made

Looks great,But a road grader scarifer(not sure on spelling) Had one on austin western road grader.It had a 3 cylinder jimmie with blower,same motor as the c-5 tree farmer skidder.The one the grader was a slite < so that way way for unknown to me.