Oops! I did something very stupid. Accidentally drove my Massey ferguson m135 gas engine tractor into my pond. Was grading the slope and got a little to far down the slope and just started sliding into the water. Didn't thing fast enough to kill the engine. Got it pulled out but now I need to know what all the possibilities are about damage and what steps I need to take to get it running again. I did notice something strange when I looked it all over-the radiator fan is pressed up into the radiator fins. any help is appreciated.
Submerged tractor
- Thread starter No1umfan
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Air filter, or not?
If it was running without a filter, the first cyl that sucked in a load of water, probably has a bent rod.
If it has a filter, it probably smothered itself before it was able to suck any water in.
If it was running without a filter, the first cyl that sucked in a load of water, probably has a bent rod.
If it has a filter, it probably smothered itself before it was able to suck any water in.
RoyJackson
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First, pull all the plugs (you did write it was a gasoline fueled engine) and rotate the crankshaft by hand (use a wrench, but do not hit the starter!). If the engine locks (as you try to rotate it), don't force it....you might have a bent or broken valve.
If there is substantial water coming out of the plug holes, you probably did bend something. You'll want to visually confirm that. You may be able to drain the oil, drop the oil pan and see what you can see.
If there is substantial water coming out of the plug holes, you probably did bend something. You'll want to visually confirm that. You may be able to drain the oil, drop the oil pan and see what you can see.
David-Davies
Silver Member
Hello No1umfan. Pull the spark plugs. Rotate the engine, by hand, then spray a lot of penitrating oil in the spark plug holes.Check the oil for water, hi oil reading on the dip stick. If you didn't notice any problems turning it over by hand,then jog the starter, a few times. If you don't notice any thing wrong, use the starter to pump the water out. Ten RPM's should be good. Start it up at idle, and let it run until it gets hot, enough to get all the water out. I sank my 1941 Willys, once. By time I got pull out, all the oil had been replaced with water. When I got it runing, I had 10 lbs water pressure, [didn't have any oil left in it.]. I then had to drive it about ten miles, before I could have the oil changed. It didn't seem to hurt the motor any.
Dave
Dave
Redneck in training
Elite Member
I know a guy who was engineer on a merchant ship. He told me if you run out of engine oil during bad weather you put water in it and run it until the weather gets better.
RoyJackson
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crashz
Elite Member
In regards to the fan, its designed to move a lot of air. When the media is changed to water, it will try to move the same amount of water, but bend and straighten as its running. Its possible that the blades have mearly bent, radiator moved, or even pulled the shaft out of the water pump. while it needs to be fixed, as well as the radiator, these are probably lower on the priority list.
Powerstroke777
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Is the front end damaged? How did the radiator end up aginst the fan? Broken radiator mounts?
How deep was the water relative to the tractor? If the water was over the carburetor then you will have to remove the bowl and drain it. If the water was over the top of the gas tank, you will have to drain that also. I would remove the distributor cap to make sure it is dry inside and also to check the points and condensor to make sre they are dry as well.
Good luck
Good luck
eric gnandt
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depending on how deep you were in don't forget about the hydraulic res..rear end and trans oils
slowzuki
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Normal for a mechanical fan to get sucked into the radiator in water. Hopefully it didn't cut your fins.
Soundguy
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this one have an oil bath air filter?
i think i'd pull the fan belt if the fan is in the rad before turing it over.
can't ait to hear it it turns over or not.
soundguy
i think i'd pull the fan belt if the fan is in the rad before turing it over.
can't ait to hear it it turns over or not.
soundguy
TracTrac
Bronze Member
You must find out if it has a bent rod. It might even crank and run with a bent rod. Might run for a whole day. When the rod flings out, be ready to buy a block, crank and/or head.
Don't forget to change the tranny and rear end oil.
You might be able to comb the radiator fins with a special comb. Recommend taking radiator to a shop and have them rod it.
It gives me chills to read about a tractor going under water. You got lucky. Glad you're here to post. You might even save someones life from this lesson.
Don't forget to change the tranny and rear end oil.
You might be able to comb the radiator fins with a special comb. Recommend taking radiator to a shop and have them rod it.
It gives me chills to read about a tractor going under water. You got lucky. Glad you're here to post. You might even save someones life from this lesson.
Soundguy
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too bad he didn't have time to at least kill the engine before it went under.. still even killed.. I've seen valves suffer from that water hitting them..
soundguy
soundguy
JDgreen227
Super Member
Might sound like a stupid question, but could any damage have occurrred by the hot block hitting the cold water....this assumes the pond was cold, the OP made no indication of where he lives. Back when I was teenaged, I rode my cycles offroad, and was always cautioned by those older than me not to submerge the hot engine in water, but the engines of my cycles were mainly made of aluminum.
Ive had a couple cars in my shop that went thru deep puddles sucked water in and both had bent rods on one cyl and needed replacement engines was how we fixed them anyway.
After pulling the plugs and spinning the engine they would bind up where the rod would hit the cyl wall.
I got one to run just to get it moved around since I knew we would put an engine in it anyway and it knocked pretty bad. If I had rebuilt that engine it would have had deep scratches in the lower cyl wall.
It would have ran ok honed out good and with a new rod and rings but blow by would be an issue most likely in a case like that.
So I wouldn't recommend trying to spin it much if it seems to bind after the water is out or you may hurt it where putting in a new rod still wont make it right.
If its a flat head checking for a low piston compared to the rest would be easy on an ohv engine short of pulling the head and using a depth mic it would be difficult.
After pulling the plugs and spinning the engine they would bind up where the rod would hit the cyl wall.
I got one to run just to get it moved around since I knew we would put an engine in it anyway and it knocked pretty bad. If I had rebuilt that engine it would have had deep scratches in the lower cyl wall.
It would have ran ok honed out good and with a new rod and rings but blow by would be an issue most likely in a case like that.
So I wouldn't recommend trying to spin it much if it seems to bind after the water is out or you may hurt it where putting in a new rod still wont make it right.
If its a flat head checking for a low piston compared to the rest would be easy on an ohv engine short of pulling the head and using a depth mic it would be difficult.
I actually did this late last fall in Michigan so the water was cold but not freezing. I'd say probably around 45 degrees. Sounds like most of you guys are pretty mechanically savvy so when people say to crank the engine manually I'm not aware of what exactly to do. What's the procedure? At least the fan mystery is solved.
JDgreen227
Super Member
If you are like me, to turn the engine over manually you remove the plugs, then somehow fit a crank, ratchet handle, or breaker bar to the front of the crankshaft to rotate the engine slowly. I am rusty on this, last time I performed the operation was about ten years ago to my brother's restored Model A he had out here...if I recall right, there was a socket on the front of the engine I could fit a crank to. If I were not so lazy I'd run out and look at the front of the engine on my NAA Ford to see if it has a crank socket itself.
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