Valveman
Platinum Member
I put submersibles in shallow creeks, lakes, tanks, and all kinds of stuff. You don't need 10' below the pump. You just have to work with what you have.
Submersible pump in shallow well?
- Thread starter quicksandfarmer
- Start date
PILOON
Super Star Member
I installed a 110 vac submersible some 15 years ago in a very shallow well, like about 5-6 ft deep, and it is still working today.
The version I used has motor at bottom end with the suction in middle (most common design).
In my case the shallow (very) well has a very constant level so the pump is always submerged, also there is little or no silt deposits.
The shallow well is spring fed on a lakeside waterfront and the lake level also controls the well level. The lake water level is extremely constant never varies much due to a unique discharge that nature provided. The lake in question is totally spring fed with no inlets at all.
Springs and rain are the only sources of replenishment plus this lake is at the top of the watershed.
Annual multiple water analysis* by our association confirm that our whole 1 mile lake is bacteria free, and we strive to keep it that way.
*we have been testing for 20 years so as to carefully monitor its health.
Being spring fed, even shallow as it is, water temp is about a constant 40 deg F.
The version I used has motor at bottom end with the suction in middle (most common design).
In my case the shallow (very) well has a very constant level so the pump is always submerged, also there is little or no silt deposits.
The shallow well is spring fed on a lakeside waterfront and the lake level also controls the well level. The lake water level is extremely constant never varies much due to a unique discharge that nature provided. The lake in question is totally spring fed with no inlets at all.
Springs and rain are the only sources of replenishment plus this lake is at the top of the watershed.
Annual multiple water analysis* by our association confirm that our whole 1 mile lake is bacteria free, and we strive to keep it that way.
*we have been testing for 20 years so as to carefully monitor its health.
Being spring fed, even shallow as it is, water temp is about a constant 40 deg F.
speedbump
Silver Member
Unless you have test pumped this well and monitored it's water level throughout the years, putting a submersible pump in a ten foot well is a bad idea. You will likely burn it up. Stay with the simple shallow well jet pump, construct a small building over it with insulation and a thermostat to keep heat in the building. You can put your tank in there also, it doesn't have to be very big. Deep well two pipe jets were mentioned, this is not what you need. Just use a single pipe shallow well jet pump.
Valveman
Platinum Member
A jet pump might be able to get to water a couple inches lower than a submersible, but it will still burn up if it runs out of water. With the sub you don't have to worry about keeping it primed. Either of these types of pumps will work with a Dry Run Protection relay like the Cycle Sensor. This will protect the pump from running dry if you do pull all the water out of the well.
speedbump
Silver Member
From what I've read, he's already using a jet pump. That's why I suggested staying with it. If the well is that poor at producing water, it certainly will destroy either one.
bigtiller
Super Member
Why does he need a new pump, the one he has is working. Or did I miss something important? Won't an insulated pump house solve the OP's problem?
speedbump
Silver Member
I don't think anyone said he needs a new pump. And I think an insulated heated shed would do the trick.
Valveman
Platinum Member
A heated and insulated building will work fine with a jet pump. But I mentioned a submersible because the jet pump will not drain back easily for winterizing. With a submersible and a drain back system like I described, you would not need a well house. I have even set up systems like this on a thermostat. That way when the temperature gets down to say 34 degrees, the thermostat would shut off power to the pump and open a solenoid valve to drain the water. Then the system drains back and winterizes itself automatically.
OP
quicksandfarmer
Veteran Member
OP here. I'm leaning toward an insulated shed. Which means building a new one. The top of the well is a 48" concrete ring, and the existing shed was build tight around it, so there is no room to add insulation.
Qapla
Veteran Member
Since the pump seems to be working fine, I see no need to replace the pump.
Since you want to use the water all winter long, I see no reason to have a "self-winterizing" system.
Since all the pipes are buried and you have the correct hydrants, again, I see no reason to make things any more complicated than it has to be.
The problem is that the well house needs to be replaced - it seems that simple.
How tall are you? (You do not really need to answer that) Since a 4' X 4' X 4' pump house is a real bear to work in, I would consider building one that is 4' X 4' x 8' (or, slightly taller than you are). Make the exterior walls out of OSB and make sure you paint BOTH SIDES before you install them.
Install a ceiling light - not an LED or florescent - just a plain ceramic fixture with a pull string or switch. They still make incandescent flood bulbs/heat lamps/large wattage (like 200). Put one of these in the pump house.
Make sure you insulate the walls and ceiling of the pump house.
In the Winter, just leave the light on. That should be all you should be all you would need and it would cost less and be much simpler than some of the more complex options.
If you want to keep the pump house 4' high, just put the light on a short post and make the 4' high house/box so it can be lifted off for pump service.
I would probably use a small tank (like the ones that screw on with 3/4" thread) and a CSV to make the system operate a bit more "soft"