Suggestion for shed walls' base.

[tshep]

I have an existing section of asphalt drive I wish to abandon anyway.
Asphalt is not perfectly level, but close.
I need a shed, probably 20 long by 10 wide.
For small sizes, I can ignore code.
I'm thinking:
Cut 5 inch channel for back, a side, and small front walls where (tractor) entry doors go, and build up against existing edge for other side.
Use crush and run or such to level channel, set a layer of bricks, and built up from there starting with pressure treated 4x4 as sole plate.
I would wind in a few anchors, arranged to holes in bricks, and up through PT sole.

Any better simple, easy, light-construction ideas?

 

[Gee Ray]

You need to make up what kind of building you want. Either make it a pole barn or pour a concrete footer below the frost line and build up from there. Putting up a building without a proper foundation will not end up well when the wind starts to blow.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

I have an existing section of asphalt drive I wish to abandon anyway.
Asphalt is not perfectly level, but close.
I need a shed, probably 20 long by 10 wide.
For small sizes, I can ignore code.
I'm thinking:
Cut 5 inch channel for back, a side, and small front walls where (tractor) entry doors go, and build up against existing edge for other side.
Use crush and run or such to level channel, set a layer of bricks, and built up from there starting with pressure treated 4x4 as sole plate.
I would wind in a few anchors, arranged to holes in bricks, and up through PT sole.

Any better simple, easy, light-construction ideas?

That sounds like it would work pretty good.
I have had set up small sheds like that before..... none have ever moved an inch.... and we get 60-70 mph winds here.
No, if the winds are any stronger, well, I've seen roofs blow off....

 

[Egon]

The original plan should work well.

Might want to consider putting in a concrete footing to replace the brick. Budget decision.

 

[Vigo327]

I think as long as it is anchored somewhat it will be fine. Not sure what you meant by existing edge? Existing adjacent structure?

I'm not sure what purpose the bricks are serving unless it is to separate the 4x4 from any water accumulating in the channel pieces? Probably want to drill some small drain holes in the bottom corners every few feet if you are worried about that. Probably only need bricks spaced every 2 feet or so since the structure is light and the 4x4 is strong.

As far as light and simple cant really beat pure metal. Purlins, channel, r panel.. All you need for simplest construction is a chop saw, flux core welder, and a cordless impact to drive the self tapping screws. My 20x25 shop is built this way on a slab with real 4x4 corner posts etc and that's still pretty simple. Yours would be even much easier than that!

 

[rScotty]

I wonder if you can bolt your footers - whether 4x6 wood beams or metal - directly to the asphalt by drilling holes to fit big lag bolts. That way you can build right on top of the asphalt without having to cut a channel at all. And you have a huge asphalt foundation unlikely to move. It all depends on if the asphalt is thick enough to be fairly strong. If the hole is too large or the bolt doesn't hold with its own theads you can fill the hole with some of that epoxy/asphalt that they use for asphalt repairs and that will hold for sure.
rScotty

 

[tshep]

I am working on 1 side of large asphalt - so that side already 'ends' and tapers a bit to exposed dirt / crush and run used for base. Since I am setting on that side, no channel would need to be cut there.

I initially wanted to set on asphalt, but it is only close to level. By the time I cut slopes and such in wood (exposes less treated area) I could have easily raked the filled channel to level. So the brick in leveled channel will get me back above asphalt.

THX guys!

 

[jaxs]

Oh yea,providing that's how professionals in you area do it,you have a plan. I've never heard of such,much less saw it in use but you know what they say about customary practice.

 

[tshep]

Well, after much measuring and such - change of plans!
(A single block will not raise and level all way around - 6 inches slope diagonally.)

10 (door side) x about 20 (no doors or windows)

So, now, thinking 4x4, then 4x6, then 4x10 pressure treated perimeter, cut slanted to level slope. 'Drill' 3 inch or so holes (throuh 2 inches asphalt) to C&R and dirt about 6-8 inches deep, then rebars driven in at angles, center galvanized all thread, and concrete fill back to level. Sloped timbers 'nutted' down (after retreatment) with factory edge down.

Any better ideas, or a way to extend life of materials with less labor?

THX guys!

 

[Superduper]

How long do you want it to last? Because even pressure treated wood rots, the treatment only delays the inevitable. If exposed to dirt, it will rot out fairly quickly in my opinion. It’s a lot of work regardless. Why not just form a concrete perimeter slightly above grade, and the walls will probably last near forever. I have a 12x12 shed right now, not 12 years old and I no longer feel safe walking inside because the wood foundation and floors are rotted and the walls are starting to spread apart at the base. I’m planning to tear it all down, pour a slab and start over.