Sump discharge advice wanted

[jaotguy]

step one ... make sure the hose inside goes UP higher than the creek level ... in stall a 1 way valve at the pump base .... add a T inside with a shutoff that goes through wall at a height higher than the snow level ( backup in case anything freezes ) ...

bury the pipe 4-5 feet deep until it gets near the creek ... then raise it up till it is about a foot( or so )higher than the creek bed ... make the end of the pipe slope down towards the bed , then slip a 4" piece of pipe over it before the last 10 feet to reach the creek .....


the pump should run , dump the water into the bigger pipe ( sloped and open towards the creek) and everything should drain that is exposed to the cold ... the 1 way stops it from back feeding into the house when the creek rises .. you can also add some 1-2" blue /pink Styrofoam above the pipe to 4" junction for added freezing protection....

 

[tkappeler]

Unfortunately, the creek bed is only 1' below current grade. There is no way to dig down far enough and still have it come out above creek level. Although officially it is a creek, it is dry 90% but is the lowest spot on the property and cuts across several of our properties. If I want to take the tractor back there, I drive through it. No bridge over it.

 

[radioman]

At a cabin I used to stay in, I just ran gray water to a drywell. I dug to the frost line from where it exit cabin and dug a trench sloping away from house and then dug a drywell in the end. All of this is below the frost line. Works great even in middle of the cold winter in NYS.

In your case, if all other options is not viable, then you need to have TWO pumps. first one you already have. pump high as you can and slope enough to get away from house into a enclosed well with pump 4 ft below the frost line. IE if frost line is 40 inches . you need pump 4 ft and 40 inches from surface. Then pump up as high as you can but not above ground and drain to another drywell. I will not tell you to use drycreek or whatever the rest is up to you. NO checkvalve please in the second pump. this way water will never remain in the pipes and nothing can freeze.

 

[jaotguy]

strike two coming up ... same setup as before ... 4' down all the way to the edge of the creek ...

then dig a deeper big pit and put in a big plastic garbage pail .. drill holes in the bottom , fill with crushed gravel ... run the black poly pipe across the top ( just under the lid ) ... drill a couple of 3/8" holes in the pipe where it goes under the lid ....
turn the black poly pipe upwards ( like a fountain ) and leave about 1 foot exposed .....

theory : pump pushes the water to the creek and up the fountain end .... any remaining excess remaining water drains back down the pipe below the freezing zone and empties into the small dry well and can't freeze ... and most drains out the holes in the bottom of the big plastic garbage pail

 

[Looking4new]

My sump line pumps to the rafters (upper floor joists) in the basement and then a 25' run down hill ( 1" fall every 10') and through the outside wall and dumps into the top of a a 55 gallon barrel (sitting above grade). The bottom of the barrel has a 3" hole in it and 3" black PVC pipe attached and the pipe runs above grade (on top of the grass) to a swale 30' away. Remember that running water wont freeze and the pipe is never full. This setup has been going like this for 20 years and has never froze. My winter time temperatures are usually at least a month of -40F and winter lasts for up to 6 months.

 

[wjmst]

Also remember that salt water has a lower freezing point than regular water. I don't know how much salt is being pumped out of your conditioner in the water, but probably enough to kill grass or other vegetation.