Thanks DJ54. Yes this super C has the box between the seat/tool box and the gear shift. It has a nut on either side and we opened them to make sure we had fluid. Although we didn't do this until after we tried to raise and lower the Hydraulics so I'm thinking we may have air somewhere between the control valve and the rear cylinder because we also replaced one of the hydraulic hoses. Is there a place on the cylinder that we can open to bleed any air that may be trapped? You are correct the gasket can only fit on one way. We removed both hoses from the box or relief valve and we are getting flow from each when we move the touch control handle. We never removed the hyd.pump and the middle levers both work, the filter is in good condition and we have flow. Not sure about pressure though since we don't have a guage on it. The fast hitch is all the way down but the plunger you mention is not stuck in and the ear is I think where it should be. Going to look to see if I can find a place to bleed the cylinder. I noticed a couple screw in nuts toward the top that take an Allen wrench. Hoping that's what needs opened to bleed, didn't see anything lower. Thanks again.
Super C hydraulics won稚 work
- Thread starter feleds
- Start date
**Update**
We were able to fix the Hydraulics issues we had. I bought a 400+ page service manual and the Blue Ribbon hydraulics manual but unfortunately neither were much help showing the auxiliary Hydraulic control valve system. The manuals mainly showed the leveling touch controls. My Super C has the additional Hydraulics to control the raising and lowering of the fast hitch.
A mechanic that works with my son came over yesterday and then a neighbor stopped down that is a retired bus mechanic and between us, we figured out the problem and got everything working again.
It may have been a combination of a couple of things but mainly was air in the cylinder. After bleeding the air in cylinder at the 2 hex key ports on the top end by the hose connections and jacking it up with a floor jack a few times, it started to work a little but very slow, before we had no movement so this was a good sign. Since not fully knowing how the relief valve box by the seat is constructed, although we believe it has a spring and ball bearing internals, we tapped on it with a hammer. The combination of bleeding the air in the cylinder and playing with the relief valve we got it to work. It took adding fluid to the reservoir a couple times and moving the touch control a number of times to further bleed the system. Thank you for the above comments and suggestions. If we have further issues we may have to consider eliminating the relief valve as mentioned above. My only concern with doing this is that the valve serves a protection purpose to not overload but if the system doesn't work it's worthless. Will cross that bridge if we come to it. Thanks again to all. Happy to have our tractor working again.
We were able to fix the Hydraulics issues we had. I bought a 400+ page service manual and the Blue Ribbon hydraulics manual but unfortunately neither were much help showing the auxiliary Hydraulic control valve system. The manuals mainly showed the leveling touch controls. My Super C has the additional Hydraulics to control the raising and lowering of the fast hitch.
A mechanic that works with my son came over yesterday and then a neighbor stopped down that is a retired bus mechanic and between us, we figured out the problem and got everything working again.
It may have been a combination of a couple of things but mainly was air in the cylinder. After bleeding the air in cylinder at the 2 hex key ports on the top end by the hose connections and jacking it up with a floor jack a few times, it started to work a little but very slow, before we had no movement so this was a good sign. Since not fully knowing how the relief valve box by the seat is constructed, although we believe it has a spring and ball bearing internals, we tapped on it with a hammer. The combination of bleeding the air in the cylinder and playing with the relief valve we got it to work. It took adding fluid to the reservoir a couple times and moving the touch control a number of times to further bleed the system. Thank you for the above comments and suggestions. If we have further issues we may have to consider eliminating the relief valve as mentioned above. My only concern with doing this is that the valve serves a protection purpose to not overload but if the system doesn't work it's worthless. Will cross that bridge if we come to it. Thanks again to all. Happy to have our tractor working again.
DJ54
Elite Member
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- Jan 20, 2009
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- Tractor
- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
I don't have the service manual, but was thinking it would be. Then again, if it's an OEM manual, there may be a supplemental manual to go along with it, for that valve. If you've never seen an original OEM set of manuals for an IH tractor, they come in a huge, like 3 ring loose leaf binder with a wide back, and stand approx. 5" tall, when laying down.
I'm guessing it was more that check valve. You can take it apart,and clean it. They are pretty simple to work on. Even at that, mine would not work occasionally. If I remember right, it takes pressure to unseat the check valve,and it could have possibly been sticking, even though I cleaned it up.
We always assumed it protected the system from a shock load. Being there are no o-rings on the control valve, and is a machined fit, hardly anything there to blow out if there would be. I use both of mine quite a bit for most gin jobs, hauling manure etc. So the weight of the spreader is hanging on the system. No problems in 30+ years. I figured the seals in the cylinder would go first, if there was too much load.
I'm guessing it was more that check valve. You can take it apart,and clean it. They are pretty simple to work on. Even at that, mine would not work occasionally. If I remember right, it takes pressure to unseat the check valve,and it could have possibly been sticking, even though I cleaned it up.
We always assumed it protected the system from a shock load. Being there are no o-rings on the control valve, and is a machined fit, hardly anything there to blow out if there would be. I use both of mine quite a bit for most gin jobs, hauling manure etc. So the weight of the spreader is hanging on the system. No problems in 30+ years. I figured the seals in the cylinder would go first, if there was too much load.