supertech 10w30 full syn oil

Soundguy · Nov 22, 2011

anyone ever had an analysis done right out of the bottle?

I'm in the process of putting my ford 63 4000 gasser back togehter.

just got my head kit in, have cleaned up the valves, got push rods on order..e tc.

valve stems were heavilly gunked up and glued in place, bending my intake pushrods..

I blame this junk the govt has pushed on us as gas.

in any event, I'm changing it oil, even though the oil in it was only a few hours old, i've no doubt contaminated it taking it apart and with the use of various solvents an all.. it's just not a question of do it or not.

In any case, i'm considering using the supertech syn oil on it as a cleanup.

I had previously had 15w50 c rated oil in it, but only had done 1 other change on it since getting it.. menaing lots of gunk was liekly left over from the prev owners lack of maint.

when ifirst got the tracotr I drained what looked like tar out of it..

when she goes back together I'll run her off a temp tank and use heavilly treated fuel and check valve adj.. etc.. and get her running... figure the syn oil should clean her up as well. at 20$ for a 5qt jug, it's not a bank breaker, if it's gonna clean better than 16$ of plain oil..e tc., in case I have to go back in for more work, thus making me dump the oil. didn't want to do that with some valvolene premium blue 5w40

at 2x the price..

so.. was wondering if anyone had specs on t he oil.. etc.

thanks

Diamondpilot · Nov 22, 2011

No specs but I have heard all SuperTech oil is Warren Oils which is a good oil. I would not hesitate to use it one bit.

My Ex's father is a oil distributor here in Indiana and works throughout Ohio, Kentucky, and Illinois also. His old joke is SAE= Same As Everybody Else. Lot of truth in that. SAE ratings are just that, govt ratings. It meets or exceeds a min standard. It has to be 10 times better than the oils available when that tractor was new.

That said I was always told to never break in a new motor with synthetic. I know that is not the case now days with factory new engines coming with synthetic in most. But a barn rebuild is a different story than a factory new motor.

Chris

Soundguy · Nov 22, 2011

yep.. while not a hack n slash job, it's for sure not a machine shop rebuild.

I'm grabbing the oil tonight.

My guess is that even a cheap brand full syn has to be AT LEAST s good as a regualr dino brand that I'd be putting back in anyway.

ie.. full syn walmart oil has to be better than dino walmart oil

and I hear it does clean real good...

will see..

i'm only risking 20$

, and if nothing else.. it could be a flush oil to get rid of metal particles and whatnot.. and run it in.

I'll likely cut the filter apart after an hour of running and see what it looks like.

I usually do that on any tractor new to me.

do a change, then cut the old fitler apart to see what was in it.

in the end.. it has to be better than what it had in 63.. whihg probably is what I draine dout earlier when i got her..

Soundguy · Nov 22, 2011

ps.. I've been using supertech and tsc utf for over a decade.. both warren unilube products. never had a lube related hyds failure either.

bp fick · Nov 22, 2011

I've run it for years. It's fine.

But I still think MotorCraft 5w-30 semi-synthetic is just as good. FWIW

Soundguy · Nov 22, 2011

5w is getting thin for a 48 yr old engine designed for 30w in the summer and 20w in the winter, when new..

though i don't doubt the motorcraft oil is good. i run 15w40 psd oil in my work f250.. and of course, valvolene premium blue full syn 5w40 in my 2 7.3 PSD's really like that oil.. just costs a bit much for a change on them big engines..

IndyIan · Nov 22, 2011

I've spent too much time on BITOG, so now I'm a big fan of diesel oils. I'd think a better oil would be almost any 10W30 conventional diesel oil with a reasonably recent API rating. I'm sure you can find a VOA for supertech syns on BITOG, and in general they are OK but nothing special.
I run conventional rotella in the summer in my gas cars, and often 0W40 in the winter, or whatever synthetic is on sale, diesel or gas, with no issues.

bp fick · Nov 22, 2011

Motorcraft also makes a semi-synthetic 10w-30.

CowboyRon · Nov 22, 2011

Soundguy said:
anyone ever had an analysis done right out of the bottle?

I'm in the process of putting my ford 63 4000 gasser back togehter.

just got my head kit in, have cleaned up the valves, got push rods on order..e tc.

valve stems were heavilly gunked up and glued in place, bending my intake pushrods..

I blame this junk the govt has pushed on us as gas.

in any event, I'm changing it oil, even though the oil in it was only a few hours old, i've no doubt contaminated it taking it apart and with the use of various solvents an all.. it's just not a question of do it or not.

In any case, i'm considering using the supertech syn oil on it as a cleanup.

I had previously had 15w50 c rated oil in it, but only had done 1 other change on it since getting it.. menaing lots of gunk was liekly left over from the prev owners lack of maint.

when ifirst got the tracotr I drained what looked like tar out of it..

when she goes back together I'll run her off a temp tank and use heavilly treated fuel and check valve adj.. etc.. and get her running... figure the syn oil should clean her up as well. at 20$ for a 5qt jug, it's not a bank breaker, if it's gonna clean better than 16$ of plain oil..e tc., in case I have to go back in for more work, thus making me dump the oil. didn't want to do that with some valvolene premium blue 5w40 at 2x the price..

so.. was wondering if anyone had specs on t he oil.. etc.

thanks

I'm not sure about the oil specs either, but I have used super tech with no problems. What we use to do with engines that had a lot of hunk is just buy cheap oil and change it like every few days. This will get most of the sludge out.

Gale Hawkins · Nov 22, 2011

WM 10w-30 synthetic as worked well for us but have moved to 5w-40 Rotella for use on the place. To clean up the old Ford 300 six engine I had the place in town to use 15w-40 Rotella since the engine is dirty and 30 years old. Diesel class seems to have more detergent from what I read.

I use Sea Foam for the last 50 or so miles to cut the crud and clean the ring groves a little better. Put in 1.5 oz per quart of oil and new oil will look dirty in a short order I find.

To clean up a dirty engine we have had luck changing the filter every hundred miles or so AFTER the first oil change. By changing them COLD the it seems more of the heavy stuff may be trapped inside of the filter.

This is can work out where you have to drive something home but really have no way to do a complete oil change. A gallon ice cream bucket with a lid is awesome in that it will catch the dripping oil and filter and you can put the lid back on to reduce risk of spilling it.

A really dirty filter may have been by passing for years and a filter only change will get a working filter in place again. There are under $5 options at WM, etc that will work fine for this approach.

I am thinking older gas engines when writing this.

Fixemall · Nov 22, 2011

I have always used ATF for cleaning out old gas engines, it is amazing what builds up over the years. A strong magnet on the filter helps too.

Soundguy · Nov 22, 2011

IndyIan said:
I've spent too much time on BITOG, so now I'm a big fan of diesel oils. I'd think a better oil would be almost any 10W30 conventional diesel oil with a reasonably recent API rating. I'm sure you can find a VOA for supertech syns on BITOG, and in general they are OK but nothing special.
I run conventional rotella in the summer in my gas cars, and often 0W40 in the winter, or whatever synthetic is on sale, diesel or gas, with no issues.

down here in florida, no 10w30 c rated oil on the shelf.. nor have a seen 0w40 c rated either. 5w40 'c' synth is common and 5w20 's'

i could 'order' it... but not really worth it..

soundguy

Soundguy · Nov 22, 2011

bp fick said:
Motorcraft also makes a semi-synthetic 10w-30.

but it's not sold anywhere I know of here..

i can get their 5w20 semi synth though..

soundguy

Soundguy · Nov 22, 2011

Gale Hawkins said:
WM 10w-30 synthetic as worked well for us but have moved to 5w-40 Rotella for use on the place. To clean up the old Ford 300 six engine I had the place in town to use 15w-40 Rotella since the engine is dirty and 30 years old. Diesel class seems to have more detergent from what I read.

I use Sea Foam for the last 50 or so miles to cut the crud and clean the ring groves a little better. Put in 1.5 oz per quart of oil and new oil will look dirty in a short order I find.

To clean up a dirty engine we have had luck changing the filter every hundred miles or so AFTER the first oil change. By changing them COLD the it seems more of the heavy stuff may be trapped inside of the filter.

This is can work out where you have to drive something home but really have no way to do a complete oil change. A gallon ice cream bucket with a lid is awesome in that it will catch the dripping oil and filter and you can put the lid back on to reduce risk of spilling it.

A really dirty filter may have been by passing for years and a filter only change will get a working filter in place again. There are under $5 options at WM, etc that will work fine for this approach.

I am thinking older gas engines when writing this.

yep.. btdt, and used the atf.

keep in mind I have had 15w40 c rated oil in this for this summer. when i first got her and tar came out I ran some supertech 10w30 and atf thru her with a 2$ st8a oil fitle ron and ran her till warmend, and changed the dark oil out.. probably should have added a quart of atf to it's previous oil change... or added some seafoam midways after the change... or mmo.. etc. soemthing with some solvents.. or an upper cyl lube even.

will be for sure doing it now...

soundguy

Gale Hawkins · Nov 23, 2011

Not sure I would do this today or not but remember from time to time Dad would drain the oil, fill with heater oil, pull the coil and bring up the oil pressure a bit with the starter. It would let it set for a few minutes and repeat a couple more times. It would come out darker than when it went in.:thumbsup:

I love Sea Foam but at $8 a can/$50 a gallon so does the makers. :laughing: I picked up two gallons the other day with winter coming on. I like to park the MH with at least 1 oz per gallon mix and that alone is .5 gallons.

The thing about using ATF in crankcase or fuel tank I am not sure what friction multipliers do when it comes to wear?

Soundguy · Nov 24, 2011

use type F

soundguy

tsteahr · Nov 24, 2011

Soundguy said:
valve stems were heavilly gunked up and glued in place, bending my intake pushrods..

I had previously had 15w50 c rated oil in it, but only had done 1 other change on it since getting it.. menaing lots of gunk was liekly left over from the prev owners lack of maint.

I've had good luck flushing older engines with Amsoil engine flush. Considering how much gunk may still be in there, this seems like a good idea for your situation. I would install a new filter and fill the crankcase with a inexpensive conventional oil. Run the engine up to operating temp then add the bottle of flush. Run that a little above idle (say 1000 rpm) for about 20 minutes, then drain. It will come out totally black and thin as water. Change the filter, fresh oil and you are good to go.