Surgery begins, splitting the TC24DA.

[JSUnlimited]

Okay fellas,

I got off duty this morning and as of posting these pics I have been up 36 hours with no sleep so excuse the type errors, etc.

To those of you that were concerned about the support, lifting, etc., of both sections of the tractor please read on.... Keep in mind the earlier pics were taken right after the split!

So that you can sleep at night, I have posted the following pics.

The first picture is of both front tires turned such that there will be no movement forward as the garage floor slopes out towards the door. One tire is wedged against the support leg of the lift. The lift is attched to the engine block via the factory lift point and tension is applied at all times.

The second picture shows two (2) jackstands supporting a block of wood (not sure of the exact tensile strength ) across the bottom of the oil pan (yep thats right...the oil pan). There is not much weight being supported at the back as it seems the majority of the weight is focused towards the front of the front half. This is purely in case the lift leaks off.

The third picture is of the floor jack that is supporting the rear half. As you can see, there are blocks of wood in front of the rear tires. In addition to that, the parking brake is still functional and it is applied. The floor jack has been secured in place with a piece of treated 4x4 and the pressure has been released onto that. A slight pump has been made so that both the jack and the 4x4 are both carring the weight.

At this point I think most of the safety concerns have been addressed. Thanks to those of you who have pointed out the lifting, supporting and other aspects of safety during the potentiallly expensive do-it yourself project.

 

[JSUnlimited]

It seems that I was wrong in assuming it was the rear main seal. As you can see, it looks pretty good considering 600 hours. I have found however the culprit is possibly the seal on the input shaft of the transmission. I think is the same issue that TCBoomer had faced.

This is going to get replaced anyways since it is apart.

 

[JSUnlimited]

Heres the input shaft. Looks like a leak to me.

 

[JSUnlimited]

The clutch and associated parts were soaked. I never noticed any slipping or grabbing of the clutch prior to the teardown. I plan to clean all of the parts and either have the clutch refaced locally or replace it since everything is apart. I need to research the clutch disk price as it seems pretty steep....we'll see.

 

[JSUnlimited]

The throwout bearing and forks were removed. TCBoomer, how did you get this sleeve off? The dealer says that there is no tool for it? They stated to use a punch and hammer to tap it around to eventually spin it off.

How did you do it?

If I destroy it, I'll add it to the growing list of parts!

 

[JSUnlimited]

The input shaft seal cannot be bought from the dealer or partspring as a separate item. It only comes as part of a kit that includes all of the seals, o-rings, etc. for the whole transmission. It happens to be around $140-150!

The rear main is around $38.00 in believe.

Anyone that can get me that individual seal...please let me know!

TCBoomer, I sent you a private email...thanks.

Joe

 

[TCBoomer]

Great job Joe...looks like u got a handle on it now. But I'm still wondering where the engine oil was going if the rear main is dry. U have an oil consumption problem maybe?

its gonna be your lucky day Joe...I believe I have the input shaft seals, u need 2 of them IIRC.

I'm on my way out the door, so I wont be able to check until tomorrow or Wednesday. I'll be in touch as soon as I can.

btw...u need a 1 9/16" open end crows foot to remove the input hub. Measure it to be sure...maybe its 1 11/16? as u know...my mind is focused elsewhere...

gotta run...I'll be in touch soon

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

man, that's some progress.....

i think it's a bunch-o-crap for NH not to be able to even GET the seal........there's no excuse.....even from another source......

i guess if your like many of us and smart enough to do the work yourself, you'll find a seal without the dealer....

 

[IH3444]

Mega, look on the seal for any numbers, marking, manufacture logos. A seal can also be measured, and an exact fit can be found at a seal manufacture web site. You will have to do some looking. Most likely a seal from the country of orgin. Most likely Japan. Many bearing suppliers also carry a line of seals, and maybe able to match it up for you. Your pictures, and documentation is fantastic. Thanks. One thing I did notice is the lack of wear on the input shaft splines. When I look at the pictures posted in the chinese tractor forums, I always see wear on the input shafts, on very low hours machines. Japanese steel, GOOD! Chinese steel, .....well, OK.

 

[JSUnlimited]

I ordered parts today....

TCBoomer, if you happen to have the seal and you can work out a deal with me, that is great. Otherwise, if you can remember the part number it too would be good! I blindly ordered some parts?!?

I ordered the following,

-throttle grip (the throttle handle) and set-screw since I destroyed the old one getting it off. The **** screw was tight and it stripped out. It had to be drilled out as mentioned earlier.... in case you have just tuned in.

-engine rear main seal.

-two (2) studs that are located at the bottom of the bellhousing. They were loose and part of the threads were worn due to the engine block and transmission housing wearing on them. I have not taken pics of those yet, however I think that this is where the problem has started.

-clutch disk........yeah, $135.52! No vaseline included!

Now for the big issue!

According to the NH parts diagram/listing, the input shaft seal is part of a whole kit as I have mentioned earlier. Messick's has a part number that shows that the seal was available individually. The original NH part # was SBA322840150, however when ordering, it said that is was obsolete and replced by part #SBA322840945. One dealer says one thing and another dealer says something else. It is a difference of getting a whole box of seals for $150.00 for one part number, or getting one seal for $35.00. However, the $35.00 seal may not be the right one!

My local dealer has been obsolutely great to me. They have offered thier clutch alignment tool when I need it. I talked to one of the mechanics earlier before this nighmare and he said that after the split, he would stop by to help seat the new seals and check the progress.