ericbx1500
Gold Member
Has anybody ever installed a suspended ceiling in there garage/pole barn. I thinking of doing this to mine with 8'ceilings. If you have could you show some pics.
suspended ceiling
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Farwell
Veteran Member
Eric,ericbx1500 said:
Question, is the 8' your existing ceiling or is 8' the height of the desired finished ceiling? Reason why I ask is there are different ways to go depending on the height. There is a plastic product that fastens right on to the floor joists above basements that are two parts. One part is fastened to the joist, the panel is installed and the second part clips into the fastened part holding the panel in place. If you have a high ceiling and want an 8' drop ceiling then you have to use wires and standard suspension material.
The two part system will work on ceiling joists as well.
HD carried them at one time and can probably still special order them. The 2 part system is designed for spaces with little head room.
David B
OP
ericbx1500
Gold Member
bugstruck
Platinum Member
Acoutical tile may not be a good choice with trusses that low. Don't like that much for garages anyhow. If the door(s) face prevailing winds you have to clip each tile due to pressurization. Unless of course the method mentioned earlier (unknown method to this guy) locks each tile in place. I like drop ceilings even in residential when the application is right, good ones with commercial grid and tile, just not in garage conditions. Pretty much never in a garage. Somebody may post one and like it, but I bet their doors face south or they clipped every tile to control blow out. I see you're up north. Sheath that ceiling with something. It will help hold heat that way and you can insulate of course if you desire. I'm in Maryland and don't heat mine except rarely with propane. It's plastered with no insulation, so it works on the rare day I need to warm it up some. Permanent heat would make me insulate of course.
HTH
HTH
Here's a couple of pics - 12' sidewalls/16' center
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q263/jk96/Hall-View.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q263/jk96/Hall-View2.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q263/jk96/Hall-View.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q263/jk96/Hall-View2.jpg
LarryD
Veteran Member
I've seen exactly what you describe Chris, open a door and the wind fills the space with no where to go. Played havoc with the ceiling.
bigtiller
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I put a suspended ceiling in my Morton building and every time the wind blew I had a few panels pop out when the overhead doors were open. I had 4 clips on every panel and 12 inches of fiberglass insulation. Sometimes the entire ceiling would raise up just a little before the panels blew out, and this was in a 30x54 building. It was frustrating working on a project on a nice but windy day and having to keep the doors closed.
Farwell
Veteran Member
Eric,ericbx1500 said:
You may have to use 1X2 furring strips to fasten the 2 part panel holding brackets. This ceiling is not quite the same as a suspended ceiling because it is fastened directly to the support. There is no space between the ceiling panel like with a true suspended ceiling so the panels can't move. To remove a panel you remove the second strip that fits in a grove on the first strip.
The product name is : CEILING MAX do a Google search and all the information you need is there.
David B
dtd24
Gold Member
I believe the 2 part panel system is expensive. I used them in a few basements. I like the ease of being able to just pop an accoustical panel to get up in the attic if needed, but would hate to keep setting the tiles because of them popping themselves. 7/16" OSB seems to be low priced now. I would hang the grid and use osb as panels. They should be heavy enough to stay put. Paint them if you want. Easy to fasten those lights to.
Good Luck
DaveD
Good Luck
DaveD
Paddy
Veteran Member
Not sure why you'd want such a ceiling when you can rent one of those drywall lifts and hang sheet rock in an afternoon. One coat sealing/tape will give you fire protection where the hang cieling won't (Idon't think)
Farwell
Veteran Member
Dave D,
I agree with using 7/16 OSB as being the cheapest way to go. My 30x40 pole barn has that on the ceiling. I haven't painted it but I have seen painted OSB, if done right it looks real good and it is hard to tell that it is OSB.
I priced the 2 part panel system, and it is definitely expensive when compared to the OSB method.
Paddy,
I agree with you about the drywall being fire proof. I use 5/8" with the fire retardant in any area where fire danger is a potential. It is not the cheapest way to go but when finished correctly it will probably look better than most other ceilings. ( I am not too good at taping and finishing drywall seams)
David B
I agree with using 7/16 OSB as being the cheapest way to go. My 30x40 pole barn has that on the ceiling. I haven't painted it but I have seen painted OSB, if done right it looks real good and it is hard to tell that it is OSB.
I priced the 2 part panel system, and it is definitely expensive when compared to the OSB method.
Paddy,
I agree with you about the drywall being fire proof. I use 5/8" with the fire retardant in any area where fire danger is a potential. It is not the cheapest way to go but when finished correctly it will probably look better than most other ceilings. ( I am not too good at taping and finishing drywall seams)
David B
OP
ericbx1500
Gold Member
Farwell said:
David do you have any pic's of your ceiling?
Farwell
Veteran Member
Eric,ericbx1500 said:
Sorry if I misled you, I do not have the ceiling, I was researching the ceiling a couple of years ago for a basement remodel that hasn't yet taken place. I start early on all of my projects. I can tell you that it looks just like any suspended ceiling, depending on the panel you choose. If you visit HD often, check with the special order department to see if they can still get the product and if they have literature on it. It was in stock at the local HD three years ago but I haven't seen it lately.
David B
Another big problem with acoustical tile suspended ceilings is that in any high humidity environment the tiles will sag over time, and that looks like crap. They work well in an office environment because these are heated/air conditioned year around, but I guarantee you that in shop within a few years they would be sagging very noticably.
They also sag a lot in residential basements also because of the humidity. They sag due to the moisture both gradually softens them and makes them heavier. Use something like OSB or metal in a shop.
They also sag a lot in residential basements also because of the humidity. They sag due to the moisture both gradually softens them and makes them heavier. Use something like OSB or metal in a shop.
OP
ericbx1500
Gold Member
Anybody have pics of a suspended ceiling with OSB as tiles?
I'd go with sheet rock. OSB has to be way higher than sheetrock.
Even if you have to use 5/8" sheetrock. Last time I looked the OSB was $12.00 per sheet and rock was $3.90 per sheet.
Like Paddy said renting a sheetrock hoist will let one person do that job in a day.
Even if you have to use 5/8" sheetrock. Last time I looked the OSB was $12.00 per sheet and rock was $3.90 per sheet.
Like Paddy said renting a sheetrock hoist will let one person do that job in a day.
I think USG sheetrock brand makes a insulation panel with a vinyl face this would not be as heavy and if you go to a commercial sales they have clips that may hold the tile in the grid.It maybe better in the dampness too.
dqdave1
Veteran Member
You can use drop ceiling grids and drop in vinyl coated sheetrock panels; they use them in restaurants; they are fireproof, easy to install, will not blow out.
Raddad
Silver Member
You're in Michigan, dude. Insulate and drywall with interior 1/2 ceilling drywall. There are sag resistant types available in 1/2" by 8' and 12' sheets from USG. I'm in Michigan and am doing the same thing in my sons shop. We put in a 60,000 BTU ceiling mounted furnace with R19 in the ceiling and R13 in the walls. Drywall is better than OSB because when you fire tape it it stops air infiltration and saves on heat bills. In a shop stoping the drafts is as important as insulating. You can't just insulate and not cover it or the squirrels will tear up your insulation. His shop is 28" by 32" with a 10" ceiling and the furnace works just fine to heat that size shop. We are doing everything up to code. Drywall will be much cheeper than any other covering also.
Is there a reason your trying to avoid drywall?
Is there a reason your trying to avoid drywall?
