sway chains.. What have I got wrong?i

   / sway chains.. What have I got wrong?i #11  
I think I agree with Jimbown and jimtimber in that the turnbuckle should be hooked in the hole that the lift am is in and the lift arm in the turnbuckle hole. Go to the Deere website and look at a parts drawing for confirmation. I'm not positive on this but think it's the way my 790 Deere hooks up..
 
   / sway chains.. What have I got wrong?i #12  
A quick google image search netted a couple pics. Looks like everything is hooked up right... just too long of a chain. :confused3:
 

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   / sway chains.. What have I got wrong?i #13  
Looking at the attachment points on the tractor it doesn't seem likely that the chains should be hooked up in an "X" pattern. The stress on the clevis would not be a direct pull like it should be.

Plus, the chains would interfere with the drawbar if hooked up that way.
 
   / sway chains.. What have I got wrong?i #14  
Just remove a link or 2 and you are good to go.
The angle of the brackets on the rear casting indicate a direct line to each lift arm, removing one or both links will do the trick.
The sway kit is undoubtedly a universal replacement kit hence the extra links.

Exactly. Universal kits are a bunch cheaper than the OEM kits, but they need to be "sized". BTW to the OP, you should turn the eyelets that are bolted onto your lower arms so that they are in the same orientation. Rotate one to match the other side. It looks like this kit will go short enough by removing a link or two.
 
   / sway chains.. What have I got wrong?i #15  
My chains are always loose when your not hooked up. They need room to widen out for hook up. Unless your saying they will not get tight when hooked up?
 
   / sway chains.. What have I got wrong?i
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Thanks for all the input guys. I went out and tried putting the clevis end thru a different link. Unfortunately I would have to cut off the "extra" link to get the clevis thru. If I did that it's now permanently altered and if its still too long no recourse for returning to the vendor.
Even just sizing it up it appears that they would be still too long.
I did check in the JD Parts manual and the original owners manual. Draft arms are installed correctly and all linkages are in their proper holes.
With implement installed and chains hooked up they will not tighten enough to keep things in line.
BTW there are two holes on the arm the clevis end attaches to. One is so implement can move side to side the other is to keep implement from swaying.
Yes I'm in the correct hole for no sway.
No paperwork came with these swaychains stating that removal of links may be necessary
I agree original MFG parts are expensive, if you can find them. You know why? Because they fit and work like they are supposed too.
I've restored many vehicles and work with machines every day. Nothing chaps my ***** more than when a vendor sells a part that doesnt look fit function etc they way its designed. Using excuses like "we sell alot of them and haven't heard anyone complain" tells me one thing. You're not listening to your customers.
Sorry for the rant but I (like many) work too hard for my money to give it away for shoddy products.
 
   / sway chains.. What have I got wrong?i #18  
Since it's not any other option and since it's an aftermarket part it has to be that the company just left an extra link or two for the people that might need them. It is a one size fits all thing so maybe. The Deere parts book should show how many links are supposed to be there. As well, maybe someone on the TBN has a 650 and can measure the overall length of their parts for verification of correct length.
 
   / sway chains.. What have I got wrong?i #19  
The geometry of those chains will never stop the sway. Switch locations of the clevises and x the chains.
 
   / sway chains.. What have I got wrong?i #20  
You don't want to stop the sway of an implement, only reduce it. Not sure where it is now but there is a recommended tolerance for how far an implement should be able to move back and forth. It's not a lot but my plows were set up to be two or three inches.

By that token, "xing" the chains seems like a bad idea. For starters, they could get caught in the PTO shaft. It's always been my idea of clear thinking to set a tractor up the way it comes from the factory. Just my two cents here. :)
 

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