sway chains

   / sway chains #11  
Jagmandave said:
My 1602D is very similar, here's how I did it..........

Yep, there's your solution right there. Good job Dave!!!
 
   / sway chains #12  


This is what I came up with, You could use a piece of flat stock and bend it 90 degrees on each end but it would be better the weld the ears on at 90 that way the fit would be perfect and you could use thinner stock were it bolts up and thick stock were your turn buckles are pulling from. You want your chains to pull in a strait line rather than cross each other Now you can leave it at that or add a draw bar to the bottom which probably would be better anyway. I don't know what the bottom looks like but run the draw bar back as far as you can and if you can bolt it to a cross member great but if not were ever you can. I welcome anyone to modify the design
 
   / sway chains
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Yep, Dave, I think that is what I will need to do. Make something like you have and slip it on in behind the lower lift arms on that pin.

The yellow arrow Deerhunter put on the picture is one of the drain plugs for the diff/trans fluid. I do have one on each side but I'm thinking that wouldn't be a good place to use?

No holes for a drawbar whatsoever.

Thanks guys! I think you solved it!
 
   / sway chains #14  
The picture in the link that Ovrszd posted also has the blocks, similiar to what my tractor has. His are just Orange, but we won't hold that against him, because he is trying...
As far as my dipstick, thanks for the information, but I took about 4 hours and walked the woods where I lost the dipstick, and actually found it. I had already ordered one from JD, but it came in as plastic instead of steel, and required you to have your original one to "set the level" on the new adjustable one. Now, if I had the old one, why would I want to buy a plastic piece of junk one to replace it with???
My tractor is a 1989 John Deere 2555 which is about a 70 horsepower two wheel drive monster than weighs in at 7K pounds without any implements. I replaced a 13hp Ford 1100 4x4 with it and have managed to tear up many of my old implements.
David from jax
 
   / sway chains
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I'm glad you found your dipstick. The JD thing about needing your old dipstick to level the new dipstick sounds like an email I got from my health ins. co. I had emailed them to say I had lost my insurance card and needed to find out how to get a new one. I got an answer back that said call the number on the back of your card.

The high school I teach at has a machine shop and they would easily make brackets like Dave's to put on my tractor. Looks like a good way to go. I am still trying to figure out if I could also make a drawbar for it. There does not appear to be anywhere to bolt on one. If I could that would take care of 2 birds with one stone... make a drawbar and put brackets on the side for the sway chains.
 
   / sway chains #16  
Consider yourself lucky having a Vocational School, especially one with a machine shop. So many have been dumped due to liability and the fact that the newer generation wants to be computer nerds.
I am a student at a machine shop, but it is in my backyard and I am the teacher/student. All of the mistakes get blamed on guess who...
David from jax
 
   / sway chains
  • Thread Starter
#17  
We do have a very nice setup where I work. We are only 1 of 2 comprehensive high schools in Ohio. More than 50% of our students participate in career and tech programs (vocational is a bad word now). Machining still provides a lot of jobs in the Toledo area so it is a popular program. We also have a certified auto program, cosmetology, several computer and business programs, visual communications, CADD, food service and medical and dental programs. Because we are also a regular high school, students can participate in any of the academics programs. So you can be a machine student who wants to be a tool and die maker and take AP Calculus too.
 
   / sway chains #18  
I'd get a big piece of ( 3/8? ) allthread and some flat stock. Heat the allthread with a propane torch and bend it around the axle housing stub that is right up next to the body of the tractor in that rounded recessed area.
Cut the flat stock into 2 pieces, and then drill the flat stock to slip the allthread into it.. like a big 'U' bolt.. however.. leave a longer tab at the bottom of the flat stock, and drill a 3rd hole so that you can run a bolt thru to hold the check chain.. get some turnbuckles, and you are ready to go.

Half hour of work if you are parked by your shop.

Soundguy

roxynoodle said:
Hi, I have a Yanmar YM1510D and need sway chains on my 3ph. Without them implements sometimes hit or even get stuck in my rear tires. Apparently there is nowhere to attach them on the 1510. Hoye tractor used to sell adapters for this model for sway chains but does not know when he will make more. So I'm kind of stuck here (literally sometimes!) I'm really not sure how to go about attaching them on my tractor. I know one end attaches to the 3ph, but where and how should I attach the other end to my tractor? I am hoping one of you innovative people can help me out. No one on the Yanmar forum has responded with how they got them on their 1510.

View attachment 60871

View attachment 60872
 
   / sway chains #20  
I like the cheap and easy soloutions.. ( because I'm cheap and easy.. (GRIN) )

Soundguy
 

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