Swinger articulated loader

[Loaderman22]

Hello everyone,
I'm not sure where exactly to file this question. I have a Swinger articulating loader, with a Ford 172G 4 cyl. gas rear engine, Marvel updraft carb. & a hydrostatic trans with driveshafts to what I believe are GM (maybe Dana 70's) axles. This thing is super handy & maneuverable, decent power, 4wd and kinda fun to drive. I have done a fair amount of work to it, new starter, alternator, cables, but has had a few fuel issues. After using it one day, I noticed the carb started leaking gas. I shut off fuel & figured the float was stuck down. I pulled carb & hanged float needle & seat with new. The old looked perfect, but did it anyway. Set float to 1/4" off top half of carb, & left all other adjustments alone. Shook carb & could hear float moving up & down. Reinstall carb & it leaks. Remove & test float, floats in cold water, & no bubbles or hissing in hot water, no dents, & no signs of cracks. Rei stall & now it's picky, leaks sometimes, mostly out of air intake tube where it meets carb. But other times it doesn't leak at all. But it would typically run fine, just leak if gas isnt shut off when done. However the last few months its been running very weird, during the NY blizzard a couple months ago it ran perfect, other than that it starts fine & runs good for only a minute, after that it spits & sputters unless I pull out & hold choke almost all the way, then it runs as it should. I haven't touched a thing in the carb, but suddenly this weird bogging with choke open issue. If I hold choke out, runs great but I'm lost as to why. Do I need to clean carb? Maybe some dirt got in there?. Any thoughts? I thought maybe the gas leaking issue was a symptom or related.

 

[bcp]

It may be intermittent rust, water, or other contaminate from the tank. I would put a fuel filter directly before the carb, if it doesn't have one, then see what happened

Bruce

 

[Loaderman22]

I do have one in line before carb, & I removed the one in the bottom of the tank. Could the gas in the plastic filter next to the hot exhaust manifold be doing some sort of vapor lock?

 

[bcp]

Vapor lock could be some of the running problems but it shouldn't make the carb leak. Try a temporary sheet metal shield, or even an aluminum foil shield.

Bruce

 

[Stimw]

I would completely disassemble the carb and blow out all passages with air and carb cleaner.
I bought a trencher with a 12 hp Kohler cheap, by the marks all over the carb someone tried to fix the leaking.
I found a dirt dobber clogged up the carb vent. When gas came in it air could not vent and forced gas up venturi tube.
Check vent.
Also- I have worked on 6 of those Ford 172's , 5 of them had cracked cylinder heads!!! NEVER LET IT OVERHEAT!
It's a common problem with them and used heads are hard to come by.

 

[TractorGuy]

I would definitely pull the carb and clean it completely. You might want to replace the float if you can get a new one. If it's brass hollow type pull it out and shake it near your ear to see if you can hear any liquid inside. If it's a solid type they will sometimes begin to absorb fuel and get heavier than they are supposed to be.

You might want to ask over at the Heavy Equipment Forum in the wheel loader section. Someone over there might be of more help.

 

[Loaderman22]

It is the hollow brass float. Everytime I take it out it's dry inside. Plus after it back together I can flip carb over & hear it move so I don't think it's getting stuck. Gas comes out intake tube & loader typically starts so it's not filling carb fully, (not flooded) and I don't see cracks or holes between chambers of carb, but case is getting to other side somehow. I will pull carb again & clean everything. Thank you all for the good sound advice & knowledge. I will try other forum also.

 

[dynamic industries 110]

Does it look like this one ?

 

[Loaderman22]

View attachment IMG_20170215_085430120_HDR.jpg

No, but I wish it looked that nice !

 

[MossRoad]

View attachment 507367

No, but I wish it looked that nice !

Is that an FJ40 in the background?

 

[Loaderman22]

Why yes it is. I was standing on the concrete garage slab when I took the photo, the FJ40 is project #1 to go into the Garage when done. My dad bought it new off the lot.

 

[MossRoad]

Why yes it is. I was standing on the concrete garage slab when I took the photo, the FJ40 is project #1 to go into the Garage when done. My dad bought it new off the lot.

I've had a '71 in storage since 1985 "waiting" for the right time. It has a Chevy L6 230 in it right now, but can take a small block just as easily. I have 1 full fiberglass body, 1 full metal body, 1 extra metal firewall, 2 sets of side doors (one's the 71 and the other a bit later with nicer roll down windows), 2 sets of back doors (split w/ tailgate and full ambulance style). I've got a Chevy L6 292 block and a 350 complete..... SOME DAY!!! :laughing:

 

[Loaderman22]

This one is a '70 all stock e felt some sheet metal pop riveted to the sides & it's on skinny military tread tires. The original I-6 has over 300k miles on it, & I'm sure if we didn't crack the frame by plowing with it, it would have a lot more. This will need a full rebuild as it's been sitting waaaay to long. Many years ago we bought a 1969? Safari version for parts, I wish we kept it, it would be handy to have now. I'm hoping to get a full steel body for this one, Fiberglass just doesn't have the same "feel".

 

[MossRoad]

This one is a '70 all stock e felt some sheet metal pop riveted to the sides & it's on skinny military tread tires. The original I-6 has over 300k miles on it, & I'm sure if we didn't crack the frame by plowing with it, it would have a lot more. This will need a full rebuild as it's been sitting waaaay to long. Many years ago we bought a 1969? Safari version for parts, I wish we kept it, it would be handy to have now. I'm hoping to get a full steel body for this one, Fiberglass just doesn't have the same "feel".

My plan is to get it going with the fiberglass body, then learn metal work. My original engine had cracked head (as I recall, it was 1984). I had the L6 230 in a 70 Nova that rotted out. So I bought a bolt-in Chevy V8 kit and put the L6 in that I had. Worked fine, but I had built the 230 for speed in the Nova, not torque as the original TLC had. So now I'm waffle-ing between an L6 292 or a V8 350. I'm really fond of the straight engines. A 292 can be built for torque and will fit nicely. With the V8, you have to move the engine mounts forward 3" because the firewall is indented for the original straight engine and the V engines will be too close to the firewall. Then, you have to shorten the front driveshaft and lengthen the rear one.

Anyhow, back to the swinger articulated loader program.....

My PT425 is articulated.... I'm fond of those, too.

 

[dynamic industries 110]

View attachment 507367

No, but I wish it looked that nice !

You have a model 200.

 

[Loaderman22]

An update for you all. First let me say thank you for all the great help, info & advice. I pulled the carb, gave it a good hose down with carb cleaner, & reinstalled. Fired right up & seems to idle fine so far. I did notice the hollow copper float is pretty dented, but no holes. I will replace it anyway, if it doesn't completely shut the needle in the seat, then I figuring it will continue to flood. I didn't run it long, as Stimw alerted me of an overheating issue, so I topped off the coolant. (Thank you for the heads up) I need to find an overflow canister, since it just steams out & is wasted. I also noticed the radiator cap has a split in the brass plate, so it doesn't seal correctly, I will replace that also. I also changed the fuel shut off again & this one started leaking almost immediately. Its not a leaky thread issue, its from the rubber seal inside that is supposed to seal around the shutoff handle. I think I will put a glass bowl shut off on it next, the one on my 2N has never leaked in over 5 years. Thank you all again!