Switch back to dino oil from synthetic?

   / Switch back to dino oil from synthetic? #21  
Yeah, the differences between synthetic and conventional are getting more gray. Synthetic has its place, but many conventional oils will do just fine. I like the blends. Virtually the same price as good conventional oils, but the best of both worlds.

Agreed 100%! The gap between the performance of dino and synthetic has eroded in the past 10 years, the gap remains but the advantage of synthetic is less apparent and much more application specific.
 
   / Switch back to dino oil from synthetic? #22  
I have noticed Synthetic oil would keep air cooled engine much cooler. I guess this is from less friction. I have measures air cooled engine blocks staying as much as 20 degrees cooler, running them hard in hot summer days. I use Amsoil, but I am sure results might be similar with other synthetic oils.

Yup! Two things synthetic WILL do is perform better at either temperature extreme and reduce friction.
 
   / Switch back to dino oil from synthetic? #23  
One has to wonder then, why many synthetics will have similar friction reducing additives in them as conventionals do, and in similar amounts. I have seen many full synthetics that have generous amounts of molybdenum and boron in them for friction reduction. Some using titanium, which has similar properties as molybdenum. And it takes calcium, magnesium, and sodium to make for effective cleaning and acid control, neither of which a full synthetic can do on its own. And let's no forget phosphorous combined with Zinc for extreme pressure protection. Folks tend to forget, if they even considered it, that 20% of what is in a quart of motor oil is additive package. True, synthetics will deal with extremes in cold and heat, and tend to be a little more shear stable than conventional oils, but even the best synthetic base oil, tied to a lousy additive package, will grenade an engine just as easy. Motor oil has a lot of tasks to deal with, and the additive package in an oil has as much to do with how well it takes care of things as much as the oil itself.
 
   / Switch back to dino oil from synthetic?
  • Thread Starter
#24  
So a typical conventional with a quality additive package beats a typical synthetic with a sloppy additive package?
 
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   / Switch back to dino oil from synthetic? #25  
Anyone that stays with conventional oil is in denial as to the benefits of synthetic oils.

 
   / Switch back to dino oil from synthetic? #26  
So a typical conventional with a quality additive package beats a typical synthetic with a sloppy additive package?

Yes! Take a look at the Petroleum Quality Institute of America website and look over the specs on something like the Pennzoil conventional 10w30. The base oil qualities and the add pack put many synthetics to shame!

Let's take NOACK (burn off volatility rate). In regard to NOACK, a lower number is better. A major consideration when choosing a good oil. The Pennz 10w30 has a NOACK of 4.4. This shocked the PQIA folks who did the test that they retested it to confirm.

Now let's look at something like Amsoil's top of the food chain Signature Series 10w30 (ATM). A NOACK of 5.3. Pennz conventional 10w30 slapped even Amsoil's top line oil like a rented mule when it comes to NOACK volatility prevention. Even the CCS (cold cranking simulator test), the Pennzoil stacked up quite well to the Amsoil ATM, but the ATM did beat it slightly.

And the Pennzoil 10w30 conventional has a very stout add pack on top of that. It can compete quite favorably with many synthetic oils in that regard. Like Mobil Super synthetic or even the Mobil 1 synthetic for instance. The Pen 10w30 has more of the important components that make up an add pack than both of these Mobil products have. The Pen has higher levels of Calcium (for acid control and detergency), Zinc/Phosphorus (for extreme pressure protection), Moly and Boron (for friction modification), and again, the Pen 10w30 shames both of these Mobil products in NOACK numbers.

Each oil is different and has a different add pack chemistry. You have to bypass the marketing hype and look at actual numbers. Not in any way saying that M1 or even Amsoil are bad products. They are both good products. I like Mobil gear lubes and some Amsoil stuff for some niche applications. But the Pennzoil 10w30 conventional is no slouch either and can go toe to toe with the higher priced synthetics of the same category in many situations. Marketing will have us believe that synthetics are the savior of mankind. Hey, they do want to sell the stuff! Well, they do have an edge in extreme temperatures and flow, and to some degree shear stability. But that is just about it. Those factors are only experienced in the most extreme of operating conditions and situations. So, unless you are living and driving in Fairbanks, AK or racing the hot Baja run, there are conventional oils that will do the job quite nicely. For the average user, synthetics is just a "feel good" thing.

I have no brand loyalty to any oil or even conventional vs synthetic. I got over the school yard banter and marketing hype in that regard some time ago. I use 6 different oil brands of oils, gear lubes, trans oil and fluid, greases, additives, etc. Some are conventional, some are blends, and some are full synthetics. So just because I chose to use the Pennzoil 10w30 in this example doesn't mean I am a shill for the product. I don't even use it. But I fully acknowledge the numbers, and they are impressive. I am considering using it in my 2006 Cadillac (even though 10 years old it only has 59,000 miles on it and is in immaculate condition). Even the Pennz conventional 10w30 meets the 6094M GM specification for that Cadillac LY7 3.6L engine, that GM recommended M1 for.
 
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