Switch box for BX

[Scrounger]

I'm looking for suggestions on mounting a plastic switch box of some sort near the SMV sign on my BX. I need to mount a switch for a sprayer and I'm not sure how to route the wires to the dash, so I figured I would go to the ROPS from the wires already under the seat.

For those of you who have run wires under the tractor, any suggestions? I'd prefer to mount on the dash, but the wire routing has me a bit concerned.

 

[628pm]

I can't provide pictures because I just traded in my bx2200 for a b2620. But what I had done was use the extra wires at the back of the tractor. I'm not good at wiring so my brother and I fixed up a bracket for an all weather power outlet. (purchased at Walmart), then I purchased an electrical switch at auto zone, mounted that behind the controls on the right side of the seat. I could plug in the attachment using the power outlet (I had the other part to go into the (cigarette lighter outlet (connected to the sprayer) outlet. So now I could plug the sprayer in and control it by the switch. My brother also made a 3pt carry all that I strapped the sprayer on. It worked great. I am in the process of fixing the new b2620 up the same way.

 

[Scrounger]

I can't provide pictures because I just traded in my bx2200 for a b2620. But what I had done was use the extra wires at the back of the tractor. I'm not good at wiring so my brother and I fixed up a bracket for an all weather power outlet. (purchased at Walmart), then I purchased an electrical switch at auto zone, mounted that behind the controls on the right side of the seat. I could plug in the attachment using the power outlet (I had the other part to go into the (cigarette lighter outlet (connected to the sprayer) outlet. So now I could plug the sprayer in and control it by the switch. My brother also made a 3pt carry all that I strapped the sprayer on. It worked great. I am in the process of fixing the new b2620 up the same way.

Where did you mount it on the fender? I was not able to find a gap big enough with fuel tank on both sides. I can mount down lower but I'm still looking for something to mount on the ROPS in a plastic box.

I've seen it done on the site before, but I can't find the post. It was used for lights I do remember that.

 

[Lockport]

Where did you mount it on the fender? I was not able to find a gap big enough with fuel tank on both sides. I can mount down lower but I'm still looking for something to mount on the ROPS in a plastic box.

I've seen it done on the site before, but I can't find the post. It was used for lights I do remember that.

I had a switch like that. It was a plastic all weather box bolted to the permanent SMV bracket. I removed it when I expanded the electrics and got a 12V marine grade lighter socket with rubber cap to use for my 3PH sprayer. I also purchesd 12V cigarette lighter plugs designed to be waterproof when inserted in that receptacle. I wired the lighter adapter to the factory work lamp leads under the seat. I ran wires for two pair of 100W off road lamps U-bolted to the ROPS and ran all my wires in looms under the tractor pretty much along the paths of already present stock wires and mounted a new switch box on the lower bolts below where the manual chute rotator bracket would mount above it on the loader controller housing. I also expanded the fuse box to a weather proof 10 circuit with leads off the alternator to the extra circuits. I bought relays but have yet to put them on. I thought I could tap into the circuit for the factory work lamp wires and control the sprayer from the dash, however, this disabled the fuel solenoid shutoff and uinless that circuit was on, I couldn't shut off the tractpor. I have yet to finalize this project (a year later ) I am going to ditch the switch box completely as I saw someone that had tiny military waterproof toggles with rubber boots mounted through small holes right in the dash and am opting for this option when time presents itself. I would also prefer to have the off road lamps inoperable without the ignition on, yet have not figured out how.

Cheers

 

[megaboz]

A simple relay on a circuit that only runs when the key is on is the approach. I know on the BX 24 the lights go off with the key. If you used a relay, you could also get your switched power from the fuel pump. Using a relay, you shouldn't stress they load on it too much, then you can run one common power lead that you can juice pretty good.

 

[628pm]

I mounted the switch just rear of the 2 levers. (Still in the black "plastic" where the controls are.

 

[gilldawg79]

I had a switch like that. It was a plastic all weather box bolted to the permanent SMV bracket. I removed it when I expanded the electrics and got a 12V marine grade lighter socket with rubber cap to use for my 3PH sprayer. I also purchesd 12V cigarette lighter plugs designed to be waterproof when inserted in that receptacle. I wired the lighter adapter to the factory work lamp leads under the seat. I ran wires for two pair of 100W off road lamps U-bolted to the ROPS and ran all my wires in looms under the tractor pretty much along the paths of already present stock wires and mounted a new switch box on the lower bolts below where the manual chute rotator bracket would mount above it on the loader controller housing. I also expanded the fuse box to a weather proof 10 circuit with leads off the alternator to the extra circuits. I bought relays but have yet to put them on. I thought I could tap into the circuit for the factory work lamp wires and control the sprayer from the dash, however, this disabled the fuel solenoid shutoff and uinless that circuit was on, I couldn't shut off the tractpor. I have yet to finalize this project (a year later ) I am going to ditch the switch box completely as I saw someone that had tiny military waterproof toggles with rubber boots mounted through small holes right in the dash and am opting for this option when time presents itself. I would also prefer to have the off road lamps inoperable without the ignition on, yet have not figured out how.

Cheers

Hook them straight to the battery. Fuse one leg and put a switch in line with it and you are done.

 

[Lockport]

Hook them straight to the battery. Fuse one leg and put a switch in line with it and you are done.

Thats basically what I have. The HOT off the terminal at the Alt instead of the battery, through the fuse box and to a switch. I need to run wires from the cigarette lighter that I mounted at the back of the fender, drilling through it in front of the fuel cell.

This is where I mounted the switches. There are plastic wires ties on the case because that one was not deep enough and has since been changed.

This is the upper half of the ten circuit fuse box with plastic covers I upgraded to. I would recommend this. (Picture only shows the upper five circuits. Another five under a separate cover are below)

 

[Lockport]

A simple relay on a circuit that only runs when the key is on is the approach. I know on the BX 24 the lights go off with the key. If you used a relay, you could also get your switched power from the fuel pump. Using a relay, you shouldn't stress they load on it too much, then you can run one common power lead that you can juice pretty good.

I agree, but I would be concerned of the load actually applied. I have dual rear and dual forward 100W off road lamps on the ROPs that most people told me would drain the battery and that the 40W alt could not keep up! It does however I could not see running that of the fuel pump lead. Admittedly, I am not an electrician, but does a relay have the ability to run a separate hot fused line and be electronically switched on and off via a lower current line (say 1 watt)?

 

[aczlan]

I agree, but I would be concerned of the load actually applied. I have dual rear and dual forward 100W off road lamps on the ROPs that most people told me would drain the battery and that the 40W alt could not keep up! It does however

{edit}
if your alternator is 40A (not 40W) the next paragraph is null and void as a 40A alternator will put out ~540Watts at 13.5V and you should have no problems running 400w of lights, I doubt your tractor pulls more than 75W (~5.55A @ 13.5V) to run the fuelpump/fuel shutoff solenoid and anything else on the tractor. which would leave 65W (~4.81A @ 13.5V)
{/edit}

what it probably does is pull 340W from your batt, your battery can keep up for a while but will eventually die causing the tractor to shut off, and the alternator will probably not last as long as it otherwise would.

I could not see running that of the fuel pump lead. Admittedly, I am not an electrician, but does a relay have the ability to run a separate hot fused line and be electronically switched on and off via a lower current line (say 1 watt)?

Yes, what a relay does is have a low power "Trigger" that turns on (or off) the flow through the high power side. so (for they type of relay I used when installing 3 55W lights on m FIL's L3830) there are 4 contacts Trigger+ (T+), Trigger- (T-), High power In (HI) and High power Out (HO),
when power is applied from T+ to T- (like when your fuel pump is turned on) HI and HO are connected and your lights can turn on, when there is no power to T+ and T- HI and HO disconnect and your lights turn off.

HTH

Aaron Z